Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

We’ve been working behind the scenes on something truly exciting, and we can’t wait to start sharing it with you step by step. What we can reveal now is that this project is one-of-a-kind and a journey we don’t want to take alone. Over the coming weeks, we’ll be unveiling more details, inviting you to join us on an unforgettable adventure ❤️‍🔥.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: 2025 trends, Vanilla and neo ouds 🍦🆕 

2. Strictly Independent: Orto Parisi 🇮🇹 

3. Scent MythBusters: The Stinkier the Oud, the More Naturals It Contains

4. QUIZ: Priciest oud wood piece ever sold 💸 🪵 

5. Material Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Kynam Oud 👑 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #SCENTFUTURE: 2025 fragrance trends blend innovation and sustainability. AI-crafted scents offer hyper-personalisation, while bioengineered ingredients are replacing rare naturals such as oud. Climate-inspired scents and maximalist compositions dominate, alongside cross-cultural blends like oud with cherry blossom. Minimalist eco-packaging and skin-adaptive perfumes highlight the push for personalisation and sustainability.

• #VANILLATRENDS: Vanilla dominated Fragrantica Readers’ Awards in 2024, with hits like Burberry Goddess and Parfums de Marly’s Althaïr. The 2M votes confirmed its enduring appeal, from gourmand blends to smoky and boozy variations. Vanilla’s comforting nature, linked to primal memories and its versatile use—from lactonic tropical scents to resinous oriental compositions—cements its status as a timeless note.

• #NEO-OUD: Once a bold trend, neo-oud has solidified itself as a staple in modern perfumery. Moving beyond its traditional Middle Eastern roots, contemporary oud compositions integrate lighter, fresher elements like bergamot, lavender, and soft florals, creating nuanced scents that are less heavy and more adaptable. These reimagined oud scents—such as Initio Parfums Privés' "Oud for Greatness Neo" and Hermès' Oud Alezan—retain the deep, resinous qualities of oud while introducing layers of brightness and subtle sweetness

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 

Enter the raw, evocative realm of Orto Parisi, Alessandro Gualtieri’s next chapter after Nasomatto. Inspired by the fertile gardens of southeast Italy and his grandfather’s earthy ethos, he sees the body as a living garden where scents reveal the soul. Embracing the untamed, Orto Parisi defies modern norms, unveiling bold, visceral compositions that mirror life’s primal essence.

Orto Parisi 🇮🇹 / 🇳🇱

• For Fans Of: Perfect for those who enjoy the provocative and boundary-pushing creativity of brands such as Etat Libre d’Orange, where each fragrance challenges conventions and evokes raw, unapologetic emotions.

• Founded: Established by visionary perfumer Alessandro Gualtieri in 2014 as an artistic extension of his work with Nasomatto.

• Headquarters: Amsterdam, Netherlands.

• Number of Scents: 9 core fragrances, including standout compositions like "Brutus," "Stercus," and "Terroni," each crafted to evoke raw, visceral experiences.

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Some believe that an intensely “barnyard” oud aroma indicates a high concentration of pure agarwood resin. In reality, synthetic oud can be engineered to smell even more animalic, while genuine oud varies significantly in its scent profile—ranging from soft, sweet notes to full-on funky—depending on origin, Aquilaria species, and distillation techniques.

Unpacking the Myth 🕵️‍♀️

The Misconception

It’s commonly assumed that the more the fragrance reminds you of a stable or “zoo,” the more natural agarwood must be present.

The Reality Check 🛑

Perfumers and chemists can isolate or amplify specific molecules to heighten that notorious funk in synthetic oud. Meanwhile, real oud—especially from regions like Assam, Myanmar, and Laos—can lean woody, leathery, or even honey-sweet. An aggressive smell is no sure sign of authenticity.

Oud Around the World: A Brief Tour 🌏

Assam Oud
Often described as dark and potent, with a fermented, smoky edge. Reports from artisan distillers like Ensar Oud and Agar Aura note barnyard facets, but also delicate, tea-like accents depending on the Aquilaria species.

Myanmar Oud (“Burma”)
Smoky, resinous, and sometimes carrying a leathery undercurrent. Burman ouds can be bold yet refined, with FAO studies suggesting that local soil and climate conditions greatly affect the final aroma.

Laos Oud
Renowned for its sweeter, almost “chocolatey” nuances and smooth depth. According to Fragrantica, Laotian oud can range from gently balsamic to a richer, dense warmth—rarely the stereotypical barnyard bomb.

Why Synthetic Oud Sometimes Smells Harsher ⚗️

1. Molecular Spotlight
   Labs can boost phenolic or indolic compounds to magnify oud’s “funk.” As Philip Kraft’s fragrance research suggests, small molecular tweaks can massively alter a scent’s character.

2. Consumer Psychology
   Some fragrance enthusiasts equate sheer strength with authenticity. Brands may capitalise on this by formulating extra-pungent “oud” that appears more “natural” to certain noses.

3. Dependable Supply
   Real oud is notoriously inconsistent. Synthetic variants ensure uniformity—perfect for perfumers aiming for a signature, animalic impact across batches (see Agar Aura Journal for discussions on batch variations).

Natural vs. Synthetic: Setting the Record Straight ⚖️

Real Oud
Can be subtle or bold, syrupy or smoky—no single note defines natural agarwood. It’s a broad spectrum shaped by geography, resin formation, and distillation style. Sometimes, real oud starts out quite “barnyard” before transitioning over one or two hours into softer, sweeter, or more resinous nuances.

Synthetic Oud
Allows precise fine-tuning. Perfumers might push it to be smoother and more accessible—or ramp up the “barnyard” components to make a powerful statement. However, synthetic molecules like Black Agar Givco and Oud Synthetic 10760 E typically capture only a slice of the broader scent spectrum found in natural oud. They often provide a singular, unchanging facet rather than an evolving aromatic journey.

QUIZ

All You Need to Know About Kynam Oud 🪵 

Did You Know? 🌟

Did you know that “kynam” (also known as “kyara”) is considered the rarest and most prized variety of agarwood—often fetching prices higher than gold? Prized for its transcendent aroma and near-mythical status, Kynam oud is so cherished that it has historically been gifted to emperors and revered in sacred rituals.

Kynam Oud: The Exquisite King of Scents 👑 

Imagine Kynam oud as the reigning monarch in the fragrance realm—mysterious, powerful, yet astonishingly refined. Its aroma is a complex tapestry of warm, resinous, and slightly sweet notes laced with hints of balsamic spice and ethereal smokiness. Precious and mesmerising, Kynam oud is the epitome of luxury in perfumery.

Fragrance DNA 🧬

• Personality: Majestic, Enigmatic, Meditative

• Aroma Strength: 9/10

• Best Paired With: Rose, Saffron, Amber, Incense, and Musks

• Secret Weapon: Its ability to wrap other notes in an aura of rich depth, providing a smooth yet intense presence that feels both spiritual and luxurious.

Kynam’s Journey 🗺️

Origin - Harvested predominantly from Aquilaria crassna trees in Southeast Asia—particularly Vietnam—Kynam (or kyara) forms under extremely rare conditions, earning it a reputation more precious than gold.

Cultivation - Kynam develops at the tree’s central core when stress triggers dense resin production, crystallising in a beeswax-like form. This accounts for only a tiny fraction of agarwood, making it exceptionally scarce.

Aroma Profile - Kynam’s scent unites sweet, woody, and gentle smoky accents into a sublime bouquet. Connoisseurs note hints of spice and honeyed warmth, lauding it as the pinnacle of olfactory luxury.

Perfumery - Due to its rarity and cost, Kynam is reserved for elite fragrances and artisanal oud oils. Even a small amount imparts profound depth and regal warmth, cocooning scents in a tranquil aura beyond imitation.

Legacy - Revered for centuries in Middle Eastern and East Asian incense traditions, Kynam oud holds profound spiritual significance. Whether for meditation, sacred rites, or niche perfumes, it remains the legendary “Oud of all Ouds.”

Most Notable Kynam Fragrances 💫

• Ensar Oud – Oud Sultani: Brunei Kynam: A semi-bespoke perfume built around a precious, vintage Brunei Kynam distillation. This deep, resinous creation intertwines rare oud, Tonkin musk, and floral nuances, capturing the signature “Sultani” DNA in a rich, purple-blue tapestry that delights connoisseurs and first-time oud lovers alike. ($899 for 30ml)

• Bortnikoff – Oud Kinam: An Extrait de Parfum centered on prised Chinese kyara (kinam) oud. This lavish scent blends refined woody depth with accents of citrus, rose, coffee, and gentle spice—perfect for those seeking a luxe, authentic taste of kinam’s legendary mystique. ($97 for 9ml)

• D.S. & Durga – Royal Kinam Oud: Part of the brand’s Studio Reserve collection, this fragrance spotlights ultra-rare Vietnamese kinam oud. Expect prismatic layers of spice, fruit, and balsamic sweetness—all skillfully composed into a regal, wood-forward perfume worthy of its “royal” name. (sold out)

• Ensar Oud – Brunei Kynam Blu: An exceptionally limited distillation from 100% sinking-grade Brunei Kynam, showcasing a mesmerising cool-blue oud profile. Floral, powdery sweetness merges with subtle bitterness for a rare, collector’s-grade oil that embodies kinam’s most coveted facets. ($10.000 for 3ml)