Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Guerlain, one of the world’s most iconic perfume houses, started as a vinegar company. In 1828, Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened a shop in Paris, combining perfumes and vinegars. His talent eventually earned him the title of His Majesty’s Official Perfumer, crafting fragrances for royalty and establishing the foundation for the Guerlain empire.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Communities, BR 540 and mood scents 🧑‍🤝‍🧑 😹 

2. Ask Me Anything: Fragrance related art 🧑‍🎨 

3. Scent MythBusters: A perfumer rules it all ❓️ 

4. QUIZ: Ultra rare fragrant flowers 🔍️ 

5. Molecule Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Narcissus 🌼 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• Online perfume communities, often likened to a "cult," are reshaping the fragrance industry by giving consumers the power to drive trends. Creators like Funmi Monet, known as the “fragrance auntie,” and Emma Vernon have used platforms like TikTok and Instagram to turn niche perfumes into viral sensations. These communities not only boost sales but also scrutinise brand ethics, pushing for transparency in politics and ingredient sourcing. With new apps like Sniff and a wave of passionate creators, the once exclusive world of perfumery has become more accessible, democratising scent and fostering a highly engaged, value-driven audience.

• In this New Yorker article, Kurkdjian's success with Baccarat Rouge 540 is shared in detail. Originally a limited-edition fragrance, its air-gapped quality—both dense and bright—reminds us of the opulent nature of crystal, fitting perfectly with Baccarat's heritage. It quickly became a 'rich-girl' icon, worn by celebrities like Rihanna and beloved by NBA stars. It's viral rise on TikTok cemented its status, with fans praising its luxurious scent while others debated its audacious, polarising scent.

• Estée Lauder is teaming up with Dresden University of Technology to explore the link between perfume and emotion. This partnership will use new research to understand how scents influence mood and memory, with the goal of creating more personal, emotionally connected fragrances. As brands lean into science to deepen the impact of their products, this collaboration is part of a larger shift toward designing scents that resonate with individual experiences.

ASK ME ANYTHING 🗣️ 👃 

Bart Puzio: "Maybe, but I think it’s similar to the art of painting. AI can create a painting, sure, but what truly counts is the thought behind the creation—the vision and intention. That’s something only a human can provide."

Claudia Camacho: "Anyone who comes to me for a perfume does so because they want it to be authored by me—my creativity, inspiration, and personal perspective. The question of authorship is crucial, and for that reason, I don’t see my work being 'threatened' by AI."

Chester Gibs: "AI doesn’t threaten the creative part of perfumery. If anything, it could assist with mapping new molecules, which could be valuable to perfume creators. But the heart of the craft remains with us."

Riyal Noor: "The human element is key, both strategically and creatively, even when incorporating AI. For me, AI is more of a tool to enhance the process, but it can never replace the emotional, customer-based approach to fragrance creation."

Bart Puzio: "Music education, definitely. It helps me think about fragrance in the same way I think about a musical composition, with space, time, and rhythm guiding the structure of the scent."

Claudia Camacho: "I have a master’s in Art History, training in violin, and I’m a professional florist! All of these have helped me in different ways. But the most surprising influence has been my study of wine. It has allowed me to create intriguing connections between both worlds, even though I’ve only recently started exploring it."

Marie-Pierre: "Design. I’ve worked in various design fields for nearly 20 years, and it taught me to think conceptually, articulate my thought processes, and critique my own work. All these skills have been invaluable to my perfumery practice."

Chester Gibs: "I studied art at the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, so visuals and drawing are a big part of who I am. Scent application in art was where my perfume journey began, and I can’t not create—it’s a fundamental part of me."

Riyal Noor: "Music has had a major impact on my creative process. Like music, perfume is made up of raw materials that need to be balanced, like a compressor, EQ, or distortion in a final composition. It’s about managing these elements to achieve harmony."

Curious about the art of perfumery or have a burning question you've always wanted to ask a perfumer?

Share your questions with us, and we answer them in our next feature ⬇️ !

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

Myth of the Week
➡️ Short answer: It depends on the brand and scale!

TL;DR
For independent, perfumer-led brands, a single perfumer often shapes the entire fragrance, from concept to completion. However, for global brands, it takes a team of experts—each with specialised skills—to ensure the scent is creative, safe, marketable, and scalable. While the perfumer leads the creative vision, large-scale projects require a collective effort.

The Perfumer’s Role in Independent Fragrance Houses
In smaller, independent fragrance brands, the perfumer typically handles the entire creative process, from material selection to the final formula. These perfumer-creators are responsible for blending unique scents for niche audiences. Their artisanal approach results in highly personal, often avant-garde compositions. However, this hands-on involvement becomes less feasible for larger-scale, global projects that require additional expertise and coordination.

The Reality of Composition Houses for Large-Scale Projects
For fragrances destined for a global market, the perfumer works within a larger team to meet the complex demands of such projects. This team ensures that the fragrance not only meets creative and olfactory goals but also adheres to commercial, regulatory, and technical standards. Here are the key roles involved:

1. Perfumer-Creator

   The perfumer crafts the core fragrance formula based on the client's brief, creating the scent that will define the product. They collaborate with others to ensure the fragrance meets stability, scalability, and compliance requirements.

2. Perfumer-Analyst

   They study market trends and competitor products, offering valuable insights to guide the perfumer in developing a fragrance that resonates with consumers and stands out in the market.

3. Ingredients Specialist

   Responsible for sourcing and ensuring the quality of raw materials. They provide rare or unique components that elevate the fragrance, while also ensuring compliance with global safety regulations.

4. Technical Perfumer

   Adapts the original formula to various product categories (e.g., shower gels, lotions) while maintaining the core scent. They also reformulate existing products to meet new regulations.

5. Regulatory Department

   This team ensures the fragrance complies with international safety laws and prepares documentation for market authorisation. They manage different regulations for each country, ensuring the product can be sold globally.

6. Marketing Team

   Crucial for translating the fragrance into a successful product, the marketing team ensures that the fragrance aligns with the brand's story and resonates with target consumers. They handle the branding, advertising, and influencer collaborations, creating a buzz around the fragrance and positioning it for global success​.

7. Laboratory

   Tests the fragrance for stability under different conditions (heat, light, etc.) and ensures it remains consistent over time. They may adjust formulas by adding stabilisers or antioxidants for long-term stability.

8. Production Department

   Responsible for scaling the fragrance for mass production, managing the supply chain for raw materials, and ensuring the manufacturing process is smooth and timely.

9. Packaging Compatibility Experts

   Tests the interaction between the fragrance and its packaging, ensuring that the scent remains unchanged over time and that the packaging meets practical and aesthetic goals.

In global fragrance development, the perfumer’s vision is only part of the process. As projects scale up, more specialised teams become involved. From regulatory experts to marketing strategists, each role ensures the fragrance not only smells exquisite but also meets safety, stability, and marketability standards.

QUIZ - EXPERT EDITION 🤓 🎲

All you need to know about Narcissus 🌷 

What is Narcissus?

Narcissus refers to a genus of flowering plants, widely known for its fragrant white or yellow blooms and its significant role in perfumery. Three species of narcissus are commonly used in fragrance creation: Narcissus poeticus, Narcissus tazetta, and Narcissus jonquilla (often treated separately by perfumers). These species are renowned for their intense, heady floral aromas, which blend green, animalic, and spicy notes, adding depth and complexity to perfumes, particularly in classic floral or chypre compositions.

Origin 📍

Narcissus likely originated in the Middle East or Mediterranean regions and grows wild in parts of Europe, particularly in France. One of the densest narcissus growing areas is the Aubrac region of southern France, where these flowers bloom across a 200-kilometer area. The narcissus harvest zone extends through regions such as the Cantal and Puy-de-Dôme to the north and the Ardèche and Mont Lozère to the southeast.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: France, particularly the Aubrac region, is a key producer of narcissus used in perfumery.

• Historical Significance: The name "Narcissus" comes from the Ancient Greek word narkē, meaning "numbness," referencing the plant's narcotic properties.

• Scent Profile: Rich, floral, green, and animalic, with spicy undertones.

• Harvesting: Narcissus is typically harvested between late May and mid-June, with labor-intensive processes that have been increasingly mechanised.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Narcissus thrives in damp meadows at altitudes above 1,000 meters, particularly in areas with acidic, humid soil. The flowers bloom in late spring after the jonquils, typically from May to June. Weather conditions greatly affect the quality and quantity of the harvest, as narcissi require cool temperatures and sufficient rain during their growth period. They are sensitive to late frosts and overly warm temperatures during their blooming phase.

• Growth: Narcissus grows in both sun and partial shade and can withstand occasional cold spells, even temperatures as low as -5°C.

• Predators: The primary threat to the bulbs comes from water voles and other rodents.

• Harvesting Season: Late May to mid-June, following the jonquil harvest.

Narcissus Absolute

From Harvest to Absolute: The Extraction Process 🌿

Narcissus flowers are highly delicate, and they must be processed within 24 hours of harvesting to preserve their fragrant properties.

• Harvesting: Pickers traditionally use combs to gather the flowers, collecting up to 30 kg per day manually or using machines that can harvest up to a ton of flowers per day.

• Solvent Extraction: The flowers are processed via volatile solvent extraction, most commonly using hexane. This yields a waxy substance known as narcissus concrete, which is then washed with alcohol to produce narcissus absolute, a concentrated and highly valued fragrance material.

• Yield: The process requires approximately 1,000 kg of flowers to produce just 750 grams of narcissus absolute, making it one of the rarer and more costly perfume ingredients.

Use 🛢️

Narcissus absolute is used extensively in high-end perfumery due to its rich, multifaceted scent. It serves as:

• Heart or Base Note: Narcissus imparts both a floral and animalic quality, enriching the middle and base of fragrance compositions.

• Blending Agent: It harmonises well with other floral notes like jasmine and rose and complements spices, woods, and resins to create complex, layered fragrances.

Most Notable Narcissus Fragrances 💫

• Myths by Amouage (2016)

• Vert bohème by Tom Ford (2016)

• Magie noire by Lancôme (1978)

• Mont de narcisse by L’Artisan parfumeur (2018)