Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? As of 2023, Britney Spears has released over 40 fragrances, making her one of the most prolific celebrities in the fragrance industry. Oops, she (just) did it again 🤷‍♀️.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Sneaker Smell, Digital Factory, Frag Snobs 👟💻️ 

2. Strictly Independent: Les Indémodables 🇫🇷 

3. Scent MythBusters: Perfumes Are Great Gift Ideas for Christmas 🎅🎁 

4. QUIZ: Greenest of the greenest 🟢 

5. Fragrant Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Amber in Perfumery 🌅 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #SNEAKERSNIFF: Osmo (again!), the AI startup bringing a “sense of smell” to computers, is broadening its technology from sneaker authentication to high-value collectibles and rare wines. Already piloted with a major sneaker resale platform, Osmo’s sensors detect chemical markers, offering over 95% accuracy in distinguishing authentic products from fakes. By analysing subtle scent profiles tied to materials and storage, Osmo tackles a massive counterfeit issue across industries, setting a new standard for reliable verification of luxury goods

• #DIGITALFACTORY: Givaudan has launched a new Digital Factory in Paris, designed to accelerate digital transformation and customer co-creation. Located in the vibrant Saint-Lazare district, the facility brings together cutting-edge technologies and a dedicated team of 30 specialists to foster innovation. Equipped with tools like Carto for fragrance customisation and the Mini Scent Piano for immersive scent experiences, this space acts as a catalyst for exploring AI, big data, and sustainability-driven solutions

• #FRAGRANCEELITISM: A growing TikTok debate shines a light on “fragrance elitism”—the idea that only expensive perfumes are worth wearing. Many, like TikToker Emma (@Perfumerism), challenge this view, arguing that affordable scents can be just as enjoyable as luxury ones. Critics say “scent snobs” value price tags over the art of fragrance, dismissing budget options as “cheap” or “common.”

Introducing: "Strictly Independent" 🎨✨

We're launching this new section to spotlight independent fragrance labels, answering our readers' call for authentic creations crafted by real artisans.

Les Indémodables 🇫🇷

• For Fans Of: Perfect for admirers of Matière Première who seek fragrances crafted with high-quality natural ingredients, a focus on artisanal craftsmanship, and scents that achieve cult status soon after release.

• Founded: Established by Valerie and Remi Pulverail alongside master perfumer Antoine Lie.

• Headquarters: Archamps, France.

• Number of Scents: 15

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

While giving perfumes as Christmas gifts might seem thoughtful, it's often a risky move because fragrances are deeply personal. What smells amazing to one person might not appeal to another due to individual taste and skin chemistry. Instead of guessing someone's scent preferences, consider alternative gifts that any fragrance lover would appreciate more.

Unpacking the Perfume Gift Myth 🎁🌲

The Temptation of Gifting Perfumes During the Holidays 🎄✨

Perfumes come in fancy bottles and gift sets, making them look like the perfect present under the tree. It's easy to think that a lovely scent is a universal gift that anyone would enjoy.

The Reality Check 🛑

But here's the catch: picking a perfume for someone else is like trying to guess their favourite song without any hints. You might hit the right note, but chances are you'll miss the mark.

Why Perfumes Might Not Be the Best Gift 🎯

Fragrance is Highly Personal and Subjective 🧐

• Unique Preferences: Everyone's sense of smell is different. A perfume that reminds you of a sunny beach might remind someone else of their least favourite aunt's overpowering perfume.

• No Predictable Tastes: There's no formula to figure out someone's favourite scent based on their hobbies or favourite foods. Liking vanilla ice cream doesn't mean they'll love a vanilla-scented perfume.

Skin Chemistry Changes Everything ⚗️

• Chemical Reactions: Perfumes interact with skin in unpredictable ways. The same fragrance can smell sweet on one person and sour on another.

• Unpredictable Outcomes: Testing the perfume on yourself doesn't guarantee it'll smell the same on your friend. It's a bit like baking a cake and expecting it to taste the same in every oven.

The "One Size Fits All" Problem 👕

• Generic Choices Fall Flat: Going for popular perfumes might seem safe, but they might not suit the person's unique style. It's like giving everyone the same hat and hoping it fits.

• Risk of Regifting: An unwanted perfume often ends up at the back of a closet or rewrapped for someone else. It's the gift that keeps on... not giving.

• Socks vs. Scents: Giving perfume without knowing someone's taste is like buying shoes without knowing their size. Sure, they might fit, but there's a good chance they'll pinch or flop off. On the other hand, a cozy pair of socks or a nice bottle of whiskey is hard to mess up—unless they hate socks or don't drink, but at least the odds are better!

Exceptions to the Rule ✅

Sometimes, gifting a perfume does make sense:

• Wishlist Specifics: If they've pointed out a specific perfume they want, you're in the clear.

• Signature Scents: For those who've worn the same fragrance since the '90s, a fresh bottle is a safe bet.

Alternatives That Fragrance Fans Will Love ❤️

Instead of playing scent roulette, here are some gift ideas that are sure to please any perfume enthusiast:

Olfactive Diagnosis (€) 🧪

What It Is: A personalised fragrance kit that helps them discover new scents they'll likely enjoy.

Why It's Great: It's like giving them a personal shopper for their nose! Services like Nose Paris offer kits with samples tailored to their preferences.

Fragrance Creation Courses (€€) 🎓

What It Is: Workshops where they can learn about perfumes and even create their own.

Why It's Great: They get an experience and a custom scent out of it. Check out 4160Tuesdays (London, UK) or Smell Lab (Berlin, Germany) for options.

Custom Perfume Creation Kit (€€€) 🛠️

What It Is: A very complete DIY kit with all the tools to craft their own fragrances at home.

Why It's Great: Perfect for the hands-on type who loves to tinker. The PerfumersWorld Custom Creation Kit lets them play perfumer.

Vintage Fragrance Bottles (€€€€) 🕰️

What It Is: Collectible perfume bottles from reputable auction houses.

Why It's Great: It's a piece of art and history. For the collector, a vintage bottle from the Perfume Bottles Auction is a unique treasure.

Bespoke Fragrance by a Master Perfumer (€€€€€) 👑

What It Is: A completely unique perfume created just for them by a top perfumer.

Why It's Great: It's the ultimate personalised gift. Commissioning a scent from Guerlain's Master Perfumer Thierry Wasser, starting at $130,000, is the kind of gift they'll never forget. Find out more here.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Amber in Perfumery 🌅 

What Is Amber in Perfumery? 🧪

In perfumery, amber is a multifaceted term that encompasses a range of scents and materials used to create warm, sweet, and resinous notes in fragrances. Unlike a single ingredient, amber often refers to an accord—a blend of ingredients crafted to evoke the rich, golden aroma associated with amber. This can include natural resins, such as labdanum and benzoin, as well as synthetic aroma chemicals like Ambroxan and Cetalox. The term also historically relates to ambergris, a rare substance produced by sperm whales, though its use is now limited due to ethical and legal considerations.

Origin 📍

The concept of amber in perfumery has evolved over centuries:

• Ambergris: Originally, amber referred to ambergris, a waxy substance formed in the digestive system of sperm whales. It was highly prised for its unique scent and fixative properties.

• Fossilised Amber: The gemstone amber, fossilised tree resin, has a rich history in jewellery but is not directly used in perfumery due to its lack of significant aroma when undistllled.

• Amber Accord: Modern perfumery often uses the amber accord, inspired by the warm hues of fossilised amber and the scent profile of ambergris, combining various ingredients to recreate its essence.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: Warm, sweet, and resinous with notes of vanilla, honey, and spices; can also have woody, smoky, or powdery nuances.

• Main Components:

  • Natural Ingredients: Labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, myrrh, and styrax.

  • Synthetic Aroma Chemicals: Ambroxan, Cetalox®, Amber Xtreme™, and Ambrocenide®.

• Uses: Acts as a base note in fragrances, providing depth and longevity; used in both men's and women's perfumes across various fragrance families.

Amber Notes in Their Different Facets 🌈

Amber in perfumery can be categorised based on its source and composition:

Natural Ingredients 🌿

• Labdanum: A resin from the rockrose shrub, offering a sweet, leathery, and balsamic aroma.

• Benzoin: Derived from the bark of Styrax trees, it provides a warm, vanilla-like scent with spicy undertones.

• Vanilla: Adds sweetness and creaminess, enhancing the gourmand facet of amber accords.

• Myrrh and Opoponax: Resins that contribute smoky and incense-like qualities.

Synthetic Aroma Chemicals 🧪

• Ambroxan: A synthetic compound replicating the scent of ambergris, with a dry, musky, and woody profile.

• Cetalox®: Similar to Ambroxan, offering a clean, ambery scent with excellent fixative properties.

• Ambermax® and Amber Xtreme™: Provide powerful, long-lasting amber notes with woody and musky facets.

• Others: Aldambre™, Amberketal, Ambrocenide®, and Trisamber® are used to enhance and diversify amber accords.

Amber Accords 🎼

Perfumers create amber accords by blending natural and synthetic ingredients to achieve a desired scent profile:

• Classic Amber: Combines labdanum, benzoin, and vanilla for a rich, sweet, and resinous aroma.

• Modern Amber: Incorporates synthetic molecules like Ambroxan for a cleaner, more minimalist interpretation.

• Oriental Amber: Enhances the accord with spices, woods, and incense for a more complex and exotic scent.

Regional Variations 🌍

While not sourced from specific regions like other notes, some perfumers label their amber accords to evoke a sense of place or style:

• Arabian Amber: Rich and opulent, often infused with oud, spices, and dark resins.

• African Amber: May emphasise earthy and smoky facets, blending with notes like myrrh and incense.

• Himalayan Amber: Suggests a cooler, more meditative amber, possibly incorporating elements like cedar and musk.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Amber is a cornerstone in many fragrance compositions, especially in the Amber (formerly: Oriental) and Woody families. It serves as a base note, providing depth, warmth, and longevity.

Blends Well With:

• Spicy Notes: Cinnamon, clove, and cardamom enhance the exotic appeal.

• Woody Notes: Sandalwood, cedarwood, and patchouli add complexity and grounding.

• Floral Notes: Jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang introduce softness and balance.

• Gourmand Notes: Honey, chocolate, and tonka bean amplify the sweetness.

Functions:

• Fixative: Helps stabilize more volatile top notes, ensuring the fragrance lasts longer.

• Enhancer: Adds richness and fullness to the overall scent profile.

Iconic Amber Fragrances 💫

• Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens (1993): A classic amber fragrance featuring labdanum, vanilla, and spicy herbs.

• Amber Absolute by Tom Ford (2007): Rich and opulent with notes of amber, incense, and woods.

• L'Eau d'Ambre by L'Artisan Parfumeur (1978): A spicy-sweet amber scent with a touch of spices and vanilla.

• Ambre Nuit by Dior (2009): Combines amber with Turkish rose and pink pepper for a modern take.