Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? The human nose can distinguish at least 1 trillion different scents, far surpassing the old belief of just 10,000! Scientists are still unraveling the full potential of our olfactory abilities.

This issue is sponsored by MISKEO Parfums

Independent, handcrafted & small-batch perfume company

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Man-repelling, investments, and water fragrances 💸 💧 

2. Scent Picks: Most famous ‘overseas fragrances’ in China 🇨🇳👃 

3. Scent MythBusters: Smelling Coffee Beans to Reset Your Sense of Smell ☕️ 

4. QUIZ: Undetectable fragrance 👃🚫 

5. Flower Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Osmanthus 🌼 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #MAN-REPELLING: In this Dazed article, Bee Beardsworth explores the rising trend of "man-repelling" perfumes on #PerfumeTok. From leathery animalics to unsettling concoctions like Toskovat's Inexcusable Evil, these fragrances are crafted to repel male attention—and everyone else’s. Some, like Etat Libre d’Orange's Secretions Magnifiques, are so disturbing they evoke physical disgust. Yet, for those wanting to avoid extreme reactions, “old lady” perfumes or stereotypically masculine scents, like Chanel No. 5 or Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce, are labeled as safer bets to deter unwanted advance.

• #INVESTMENT: Matière Première is expanding its horizons with the support of Kering Beauté. Founded in 2019 by Aurélien Guichard, the niche perfume brand is known for its bold scents made with 85% to 92% natural ingredients and exceptional quality. Kering Beauté, which owns luxury fragrance brands like Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent, became a minority investor in 2024. This partnership allows Matière Première to boost its international presence, open new boutiques, and grow its perfume offerings while staying committed to high-quality ingredients and sustainability.

• #WATERFRAGRANCES: Cosmo International Fragrances has introduced AquaElixir, a 100% natural origin, water-based technology for alcohol-free fragrances. Derived from plant-based materials, AquaElixir combines moisturizing properties with advanced diffusion technology, providing a skin-friendly, high-performance alternative.

China’s ‘Art and Olfaction Award’ 🇨🇳 🏆️ 

The Golden Osmanthus Award, established in 2023, is China’s top fragrance industry honour, recognising achievements in categories such as Best Artistic Fragrance, Best Candle, and Best Car Fragrance. In 2024, 782 works and 227 brands were celebrated, showcasing the breadth of the competition judged by both professional and public juries. Often compared to the Art and Olfaction Award, this event highlights China’s growing influence in the global fragrance industry and is an excellent opportunity to explore consumer preferences in a key market.

Sneak Peek: Nominees for the ‘Best Overseas Fragrance’ Category 🛬 🌏️ 

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

While it's a widespread belief that sniffing coffee beans between fragrances resets your sense of smell, scientific evidence doesn't support this practice. Smelling coffee beans doesn't cleanse your olfactory receptors; instead, it introduces another strong scent that can further saturate your nose. A more effective method is to take a break, breathe fresh air, or smell something neutral—like your own skin—to naturally restore your ability to perceive new fragrances.

Unpacking the Coffee Bean Myth ☕👃

The Ritual in Perfumery Shops 🛍️

Walk into almost any perfumery, and after sampling a few fragrances, you'll likely be offered a jar of coffee beans to sniff. The idea is that this will "cleanse" your nose, allowing you to continue smelling other perfumes as if they were the first.

The Origins of the Practice 🌱

This tradition likely emerged from the need to combat olfactory fatigue quickly. Coffee, with its strong and familiar aroma, was thought to act as a nasal palate cleanser, resetting the sense of smell between different fragrances.

The Science Behind Olfactory Fatigue 🧪🧠

Understanding Olfactory Adaptation

Olfactory fatigue, or nose blindness, occurs when your scent receptors become desensitized after continuous exposure to an odor. This is a natural protective mechanism to prevent sensory overload and allow you to detect new smells in your environment.

Why Smelling Coffee Beans Doesn't Work

• Adding More Odours Instead of Neutralising ➕

  Sniffing coffee beans introduces another complex aroma into your olfactory system, which doesn't neutralise previous scents but adds to the mix.

• No Special Neutralising Properties 🚫

  Coffee doesn't have any chemical properties that cleanse or reset olfactory receptors. It's simply another strong scent competing for your nose's attention.

• Potential for Further Saturation 📈

  The strong aroma of coffee can further saturate your olfactory receptors, making it even more difficult to perceive subsequent fragrances accurately.

Effective Ways to Reset Your Sense of Smell ✅

1️⃣ Smell Something Neutral or Familiar 🤚

Your Own Skin: Sniffing your unperfumed skin, like the crook of your elbow, provides a neutral and familiar scent that can help recalibrate your olfactory senses.

2️⃣ Take a Break and Breathe Fresh Air 🌬️

Step Outside: Giving your nose a few minutes in fresh air allows your olfactory receptors to return to their baseline sensitivity naturally.

3️⃣ Stay Hydrated 💧

Drink Water: Hydration keeps your mucous membranes moist, which is crucial for optimal olfactory function.

4️⃣ Allow Time Between Scents ⏳

Patience Pays Off: Waiting a few minutes between testing fragrances can reduce olfactory fatigue more effectively than any quick fix.

Industry Insights, Alternative Practices, and Placebos 🧑‍🔬

Perfumers' Preferred Methods

Professional perfumers often rely on fresh air, nasal irrigation, or neutral scents to reset their noses. They avoid introducing new strong scents, like coffee, which could interfere with their ability to detect subtle fragrance notes.

Innovative Alternatives: Black Peppercorns

Some niche brands have experimented with offering black peppercorns as a "nose cleanser." Pepper has a softer, less intrusive scent compared to coffee, potentially making it a better option—though it remains scientifically unproven.

Placebo Effect of Rituals

The act of smelling coffee beans might offer a psychological reset due to its strong and familiar scent. This ritual can make you feel like you're refreshing your nose, even if there's no physiological benefit.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Osmanthus 🌼 

What is Osmanthus?

Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans) is an evergreen shrub or small tree belonging to the Oleaceae family. Native to Eastern Asia, particularly China, Japan, and the Himalayas, it is appreciated for its tiny yet intensely fragrant flowers. The scent of osmanthus is unique and multifaceted, combining sweet floral notes with fruity nuances reminiscent of apricot, peach, and plum, often accompanied by a subtle leathery undertone.

Origin 📍

Osmanthus has a rich cultural heritage in China, where it has been cultivated for over 2,500 years. The plant holds significant symbolic value, often associated with love, fertility, and peace. Cities like Guilin are renowned for their abundant osmanthus trees, and the flowers play a central role in traditional festivals such as the Mid-Autumn Festival. Beyond China, osmanthus is also native to Japan, Korea, and parts of Southeast Asia, where it is similarly esteemed.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: 

  Sweet, floral, and fruity with notes of apricot, peach, and plum; subtle leathery and woody undertones.

• Main Components: Linalool, trans-β-ionone, cis-β-ionone, and various monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes.

• Harvest Time: Late summer to early autumn (August to October).

• Uses: Perfumery, flavouring in teas and confectioneries, traditional medicine for digestive and respiratory health.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Osmanthus thrives in temperate climates with well-drained, fertile soils. It prefers full sun to partial shade and is relatively drought-tolerant once established. The plant can grow up to 12 meters in height but is often pruned to maintain a shrub-like appearance. Propagation is typically done through semi-hardwood cuttings or layering. Major cultivation areas include:

• China: Especially in provinces like Guangdong, Guangxi, and Yunnan.

• Japan: Cultivated in gardens and parks for ornamental purposes.

• Other Regions: Taiwan, parts of India, and recently in some European countries for ornamental use.

From Harvest to Absolute: The Extraction Process 🌿

Harvesting ✂️ 

Timing: Flowers are hand-picked during peak bloom (August to October) when their fragrance is most potent.

Method: Harvesting is labor-intensive due to the small size of the flowers. Care is taken to avoid damaging the delicate blossoms.

Processing ⚙️ 

• Solvent Extraction: The most common method to produce osmanthus concrete and absolute.

  • Yield: Approximately 0.02–0.03% (i.e., 1,000 kg of flowers yield about 200–300 g of absolute).

• Supercritical CO₂ Extraction: A modern method that preserves more of the floral nuances.

  • Yield: Slightly higher than solvent extraction but more costly.

Products Obtained 📦️ 

• Osmanthus Concrete: A waxy substance resulting from initial extraction.

• Osmanthus Absolute: Obtained by further processing the concrete; highly concentrated and used in perfumery.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Osmanthus absolute is popular in perfumery for its unique blend of apricot-like sweetness, soft leathery nuances, and its ability to enhance and harmonise with floral and woody notes. It serves both as a heart and base note, adding depth and a unique character to fragrances. Osmanthus blends well with:

• Floral Notes: Jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang.

• Fruity Notes: Apricot, peach, plum.

• Woody Notes: Sandalwood, cedarwood.

• Other Accords: Leather, amber, musk.

Iconic Osmanthus Fragrances 💫

• Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermès (2005): A delicate blend of osmanthus, tea, and citrus, capturing the serene essence of a Chinese garden.

• Osmanthus by The Different Company (2000): Highlights the fresh and fruity facets of osmanthus, complemented by green and musky notes.

• Angélique by Papillon Artisan Perfumes (2013): A delicate and complex floral-woody scent, blending powdery iris, mimosa, and osmanthus with hints of incense and cedarwood.

• Lost Paradise by Urban Scents (2014): A luminous blend of osmanthus, jasmine, and magnolia, enhanced by citrus and oakmoss, creating a refined floral-chypre fragrance.

• Osmanthus Elixir by Ormonde Jayne (2019): A rich and elegant interpretation of osmanthus, featuring its signature fruity and leathery notes, complemented by fresh citrus and warm amber.