Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? In Europe, fine fragrance buyers—those who prefer high-end and niche perfumes—spend on average over 100 euros annually on fragrances. Over an 80-year lifespan, that's over 8,000 euros devoted to their passion for premium scents!

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Perfumers’ spotlight, Solar accords, and DOS ☀️💻️ 

2. Scent Picks: Five Scents to Savour This Thanksgiving 🍂🦃

3. Scent MythBusters: Big brands produce in-house❓️ 

4. QUIZ: High altitude fragrances 🏔️👃 

5. Accord Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Leather Accords 🐄 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #BEHINDTHEBOTTLE: This Business of Fashion article highlights key perfumers driving innovation behind major brands and niche labels. Quentin Bisch (Givaudan) is recognised for his creative freedom, leading to successes like Fleur Narcotique and Delina. Frank Voelkl (DSM-Firmenich), behind cult favourites like Le Labo Santal 33 and Glossier You, is celebrated for his innovative approach. Anne Flipo (IFF) stands out for creating iconic fragrances like Lancôme La Vie Est Belle and YSL Libre. Jérôme Epinette (Robertet), known for Byredo Gypsy Water, continues to influence niche trends, while Dominique Ropion (IFF), behind Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady and Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb, is celebrated for his mastery of floral compositions.

• #TREND: Following the rise of milk and modern gourmand fragrances, such as those featuring creamy pistachio, the next trend for autumn are solar accord fragrances. These scents aim to capture the last rays of the season's warmth, wrapping wearers in a radiant and sun-kissed aura. Solar accords are not tied to a single ingredient but are blended using elements like amber, musk, and tropical florals such as ylang-ylang. These notes evoke the sensation of basking in sunlight, creating an enveloping warmth reminiscent of late summer afternoons.

• #DIGITAL: In this Debrief article, the Digital Olfaction Society (DOS) is pioneering scent digitisation to preserve the unique aromas of cities worldwide. By capturing and archiving these scents, DOS aims to safeguard cultural identities, linking traditional smells to modern technology. This project offers more than preservation—it explores applications in healthcare, retail, and virtual reality, enhancing experiences like online shopping and therapeutic treatments. DOS believes scent is deeply tied to culture, and their initiative could redefine how we engage with global heritage through smell

Five Scents to Savour This Thanksgiving 🍂🦃

As we gather for Thanksgiving, let your fragrance be as memorable as the feast. We’ve handpicked five niche perfumes that capture the warmth, spice, and nostalgia of the occaison. Whether you want something cozy or refreshing, these scents will elevate your holiday atmosphere. Find your perfect scent for the season!

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

While it's a common belief that major consumer goods and luxury fragrance brands develop all their perfumes internally, the reality is more nuanced. Many of these brands collaborate with specialised fragrance houses—ranging from global giants to regional experts—to create their scents. The fragrance industry is a complex network where external partnerships are the norm rather than the exception. So, even your favorite big-name perfume might be the result of a collaborative effort behind the scenes.

All credits for this MythBuster go to our friend Simon French (Fragrance Strategist; ex-IFF) 🙏 

Unveiling the Complex World of Fragrance Creation 🏭🌐

The fragrance industry operates much like a multi-tiered league system, each playing a crucial role in bringing scents to life.

🥇 Champions League: The Global Fragrance Giants ⚽️🌍

At the top tier are the six largest fragrance houses:

• Givaudan (Switzerland)

• DSM-Firmenich (Netherlands)

• IFF (United States)

• Symrise (Germany)

• Takasago (Japan)

• Mane (France)

These giants collaborate with major consumer packaged goods (CPG) companies and luxury brands, such as:

• Procter & Gamble (Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Hugo Boss)

• Estée Lauder (Jo Malone, Tom Ford, Le Labo)

• Puig (Carolina Herrera, Jean Paul Gaultier, Paco Rabanne)

• LVMH (Christian Dior, Givenchy, Guerlain)

• L'Oréal (Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, Viktor & Rolf)

Despite their size, these fragrance houses control about one-third of the global fragrance market—not the 80% that is often assumed.

🥈 Europa League: The Competitive Innovators ⚽️💡

The next tier includes companies with annual revenues between $100 million and $400 million:

• Robertet (France)

• Iberchem (Spain)

• Eurofragance (Spain)

• CPL Aromas (UK)

• Keva (India)

• Luzi (Switzerland)

These companies often compete with the giants, offering unique capabilities and niche expertise to attract brands looking for something different.

🥉 Conference League: The Global Network of Specialists ⚽️🌐

This tier consists of over 1,000 fragrance companies worldwide, collectively holding about 50% of the global fragrance business. They operate on national, regional, and international levels, providing tailored solutions and often excelling in local markets.

The Reality of In-House Perfumery 🏠🔬

Some major brands do have in-house perfumers and create certain fragrances themselves:

• Procter & Gamble is one of the world's largest fragrance producers, with its own perfumers.

• Luxury brands like Chanel and Hermès also have in-house perfumery teams.

However, even these companies frequently collaborate with external fragrance houses for various projects. They may purchase finished fragrances, raw materials, or specific scent components, blending them with their creations. This means they sometimes compete with the very fragrance houses they partner with—a testament to the industry's intricate nature.

Why Brands Collaborate with Fragrance Houses 🤝

• Expertise and Innovation: Fragrance houses employ skilled perfumers and have access to cutting-edge technologies and ingredients.

• Global Resources: They offer a global supply chain, ensuring consistency and quality across markets.

• Regulatory Compliance: Navigating international regulations is complex; fragrance houses provide essential support in this area.

• Cost Efficiency: Outsourcing fragrance creation can be more economical than maintaining a full in-house team.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Leather in Perfumery 👜

What is Leather in Perfumery 🐄?

Leather in perfumery is a crafted olfactory accord that evokes the scent of leather goods without using actual animal-derived materials. Since leather cannot be distilled into an essential oil, perfumers recreate its essence using a combination of natural extracts and synthetic molecules. The result is a rich, warm, and sometimes smoky aroma that adds depth and sophistication to fragrances.

Origin 📍

The use of leather scents dates back to the 16th century when glove makers in Spain and France began perfuming their leather goods to mask the unpleasant odours from the tanning process. This practice led to the development of the "Cuir" (French for leather) fragrance family, which has since evolved into a staple in modern perfumery.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: Warm, rich, and complex with notes of smoke, wood, tobacco, and subtle animalic nuances.

• Main Components: Birch tar, castoreum, labdanum, styrax, saffron, and synthetic molecules like isobutyl quinoline.

• Creation: Leather accords are crafted using a blend of natural resins, spices, and synthetics to mimic the scent of tanned leather.

Crafting Leather Accords 🧪

Since leather cannot be directly extracted, perfumers build the leather note using various ingredients:

• Birch Tar: Provides smoky and tar-like facets reminiscent of Russian leather.

• Labdanum: A resin that adds a rich, ambery depth.

• Castoreum: Offers animalic and leathery nuances (now often replaced with synthetic alternatives due to ethical concerns).

• Styrax: Contributes balsamic and slightly sweet undertones.

• Saffron: Imparts a warm, spicy aroma enhancing the luxurious feel.

• Isobutyl Quinoline: A synthetic molecule giving a dry, bitter leather character.

Leather Styles 🎨

Perfumers have developed various leather styles to capture different aspects of leather's scent:

1. Leather (Classic Leather): Rich and robust, this style emphasises smoky and tar-like notes, often using birch tar and labdanum to replicate the aroma of well-worn leather.

2. Suede (Soft Leather): A softer, more delicate interpretation. Suede accords are crafted using materials like musk, iris, and subtle woods to create a smooth and velvety texture.

3. Black Leather: Dark and intense, this style incorporates notes like oud, dark woods, and smoky resins to evoke the scent of polished black leather goods.

4. Russian Leather: Inspired by traditional Russian leather tanning methods, this style features birch tar, juniper, and spices, offering a smoky and slightly rugged profile.

5. White Leather: A modern and clean take on leather, using lighter notes like white musk, soft woods, and subtle florals to create an airy yet unmistakable leather impression.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Leather accords blend seamlessly with various fragrance families:

• Floral Notes: Jasmine, rose, and violet can soften the intensity of leather, adding a romantic touch.

• Woody Notes: Cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver enhance the depth and warmth.

• Spicy Notes: Ingredients like saffron, cardamom, and cloves introduce complexity and richness.

• Ambery Notes: Resins, amber, and vanilla complement leather's opulence.

Iconic Leather Fragrances 💫

• Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford (2007): An blend of saffron, raspberry, and suede, epitomising modern leather elegance.

• Cuir de Russie by Chanel (1924): A classic scent featuring notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang, and birch tar, inspired by Russian leather.

• Daim Blond by Serge Lutens (2004): A soft suede fragrance with apricot, iris, and musk, showcasing the delicate side of leather.

• Ombré Leather by Tom Ford (2018): Combines cardamom, jasmine sambac, and patchouli for a rich and immersive leather experience.

• Cuir Ottoman by Parfum d'Empire (2006): An ambery leather scent with iris, benzoin, and incense, reflecting exotic sophistication.