Meet the First AI Perfume Brand đŸ§Ș

Author

Sebastian Graf
March 20, 2025

Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

On March 6th, more than 20 participants from the Scently Community joined a live kickoff, where we introduced our first perfumer, Chester Gibs, and explored the theme of our debut fragrance: Reflection. Together, we shared ideas, visions, and inspirations—shaping the artistic foundation of what’s to come.

Summary: ‘Association with Reflection’

Now, it’s on Chester to decide where this creative energy takes him.

To accompany his process, our reader Anna đŸ™ set up a Spotify Reflection Playlist (listen here), where participants added their musical interpretations of Reflection. This evolving soundtrack will serve as an unseen influence as Chester crafts the formula.

Meanwhile, something else is taking shape: our publishing house now has a name. It won’t be Scently Speaking—that much we can say. Next up: refining the brand concept and packaging, as we search for the right creative partner. And of course, as soon as we have first design directions, you’ll be the first to see them.

A Quick Note đŸ’Œ 

For the next few weeks, Scently Speaking will land in your inbox every two weeks instead of weekly. Our deep dive into building the publishing house is demanding more of our focus—and while it literally breaks our hearts to pause our rhythm after never missing an issue, we want to ensure every edition remains valuable.

If you want to get closer to the action—following the scent development, brand building, and behind-the-scenes moments—join the Scently Speaking WhatsApp Group for irregular updates from Chester, the community, and me.

🚀 Join the WhatsApp Group here

đŸ—“ïž Contents of this Issue

  1. Note Worthy: Brazil’s boom, AI Brand, and Accessible Beauty đŸ‡§đŸ‡·đŸ’„ 

  2. Strictly Independent: Mark Buxton - Freedom Collection 🇬🇧 đŸ‡«đŸ‡· đŸ‡©đŸ‡Ș 

  3. QUIZ: Vulgar flower 😏 

  4. Scent MythBusters: The First Sniff Tells You Everything—Or Does It? 👃 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌾

  • #BRAZILSCENTWAVE: Brazil’s perfume scene is booming beyond tropical clichĂ©s. As the world’s second-largest market, niche brands and Middle Eastern-inspired scents are rising fast. Syrupy vanilla, bright chypres, and bold oud blends reshape local tastes, while Gen Z drives genderless trends. With luxury taxes high and installment plans common, exclusivity takes on a uniquely Brazilian twist.

  • #FIRSTAIBRAND: Osmo’s Generation is more than a perfume house—it’s a data-driven scent revolution. Using Olfactory Intelligence (OI), Osmo converts text and images into fragrance formulas, crafting AI-powered perfumes with speed and precision. Debuting with Glossine, Fractaline, and Quasarine, Generation is led by Christophe Laudamiel and Florence Bagneris.

  • #ACCESSIBLEBEAUTY: Inclusivity in beauty is evolving beyond shade ranges—accessibility is the next frontier. With 70 million U.S. adults reporting a disability, brands are finally responding. Tilt Beauty, founded by Aerin Glazer, leads the charge with adaptive packaging, while Olive & June, One/Size, and Rare Beauty have already embraced user-friendly designs. The 2025 SeeMe Inclusivity Index reveals that 22% of beauty brands now consider disability, double from 2023.

Strictly Independent 🎹 đŸŒŸ 

Mark Buxton’s Freedom Collection is a bold statement—uncompromising, boundary-breaking, and deeply personal. Known for shaping modern niche perfumery, Mark channels raw creativity into each composition, blending innovation with a rebellious edge. These scents feel electric yet refined, balancing avant-garde accords with timeless craftsmanship. We experienced them firsthand at Esxence 2025 and were struck by their fearless originality, depth, and lasting power. Mark’s dedication to pushing olfactory limits makes this collection a true testament to artistic independence.

Just realised: “I want to break free” đŸŽ” 

Mark Buxton - Freedom Collection

  • For Fans Of: If you admire Comme des Garçons’ unconventionality, Nasomatto’s intensity, or Etat Libre d’Orange’s disrespect, the Freedom Collection delivers a similarly radical vision.

  • Founded: By Mark Buxton and designed by him and one of our favourites who is still very under the radar—David Chieze.

  • Perfumer: Mark Buxton (Mi ConfesiĂłn, I Want, to Break, Why Not a Cologne) & David Chieze—one of our absolute favourite perfumers, employed by Luzi (Why Not a FougĂšre?, Free)

  • Number of Scents: 6

Mi Confesión – A Whisper in the Smoke

In the hushed glow of a British jazz bar, where time slows and the scent of cigars lingers, Mi Confesión unfolds like a secret told in candlelight. Mark Buxton crafts a rich and intoxicating portrait—CO2-extracted rum and saffron swirl in the air, their warmth settling into the honeyed depths of davana. A heart of spiced tobacco and Bulgarian rose smolders, deepened by the golden radiance of labdanum and oud. The final touch—a sensual embrace of sandalwood and amber—pulls you further into the night. Mysterious, confident, and undeniably seductive

Perfumer: Mark Buxton
Notes: CO2 Rum Extract, Davana, Saffron, Bulgarian Rose, Nutmeg, Jasmine, Tobacco, Oud, Amber, Labdanum, Sandalwood

I Want – The Desire Manifesto

A fragrance that demands attention, I Want is a chypre reborn in modern decadence. A luminous burst of blackcurrant and red berries ignites the senses, draped in the crispness of green apple and rhubarb. As the fire settles, a floral heart of tuberose, jasmine, and magnolia unfolds, their elegance heightened by the powdery touch of iris. Beneath it all, a foundation of patchouli, vetiver, and cashmere woods hums with sensual depth, while oud lingers like a whispered promise. Unapologetic, electric, and fiercely original.

Perfumer: Mark Buxton
Notes: Blackcurrant, Red Berries, Green Apple, Rhubarb, Peach, Tuberose, Jasmine, Magnolia, Iris, Neroli, Rose, Patchouli, Vetiver, Oud, Cashmere Woods, Oakmoss, Amber, Vanilla

To Break – Shattered Expectations

A scent that defies convention, To Break crackles with tension and release. The first inhale is a shock of crisp green apple and bergamot, tempered by the unexpected bite of pineapple and clove. Then, like a slow unraveling, magnolia and iris emerge, delicate yet commanding, their creamy facets woven with soft spices. At its heart lies a storm of ambrette and ambergris—musky, mineralic, impossible to ignore. Sandalwood and cedar bring warmth to the aftermath, grounding the chaos in something quietly powerful. Unrestrained and addictive.

Perfumer: Mark Buxton
Notes: Green Apple, Bergamot, Pineapple, Clove, Nutmeg, Peach, Magnolia, Iris, Freesia, Ambrette, Ambergris, Musk, Sandalwood, Cedarwood

Free – The Incense Rebellion

Smoke rising against a burning sky. Free is a hymn to incense, unfolding in layers of contradiction—the cool sharpness of bergamot and black pepper crashes into the golden glow of labdanum and resinous benzoin. At its core, frankincense burns with a quiet intensity, softened by the unexpected sweetness of vanilla and the woody depth of patchouli. It is both ethereal and primal, weightless yet commanding. For those who live without boundaries.

Perfumer: David Chieze
Notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Clove, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Pineapple, Frankincense, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, Birch, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Amber

QUIZ đŸŽČ 

Which of the following floral notes has historically been perceived as “vulgar” due to its heady, indolic, and almost overwhelming intensity?

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Scent MythBusters đŸŽ­ïž 

❝

The First Sniff Tells You Everything—Or Does It?

Myth of the week

TL;DR

You try a fragrance, fall in love, and instantly know it’s the one. But fast forward a few days—why does it feel
 different? That first intoxicating sniff might not be the full story. Top notes vanish within minutes, olfactory fatigue kicks in, and memories shape how we experience scent over time. The result? A fragrance that once felt like a masterpiece can suddenly seem underwhelming, while a slow-burner might turn into an obsession. So, is the first impression everything? Not quite.

The Reality Check 🛑

Perfume isn’t static—it evolves. That intoxicating burst of citrus or spice? It’s fleeting. What you’re actually left with is the heart and base, which take time to develop and might smell completely different.

Your brain and nose also play tricks on you. Olfactory adaptation means the more you wear a scent, the less you notice it. Meanwhile, your emotional state, the setting, and even the season can shape how a fragrance feels on any given day.

Why First Impressions Can Be Misleading 🧐

Top Notes Are Just the Opening Act 🎭

The first thing you smell? It’s usually light, airy molecules (citrus, herbs, aromatics) designed to make an impact. But within 20 minutes, they’re gone, leaving behind the heart and base—the real stars of the show.

Your Nose Gets Bored Fast 😮

Ever loved a scent at first, only to feel meh after a few wears? That’s olfactory adaptation. Your brain filters out familiar scents, making once-thrilling notes seem dull over time.

Scent = Memory = Emotion 🧠

A perfume you wear on vacation might smell incredible because it’s tied to happy memories. The same scent on a stressful Monday? Not so much. Our brains don’t just smell—they feel.

Why the Myth Persists đŸ€”

🛍 Fragrance shopping is fast-paced – Retailers know you’ll decide in seconds, so they craft top notes to seduce you instantly.

💾 Impulse buys feel good (until they don’t) – That 300€ fragrance felt perfect in-store, but after a few days? Not the same magic.

🔄 We expect consistency, but scent isn’t static – Heat, skin chemistry, and even mood change how a fragrance wears.

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