Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

It happened. And what a night it was!

We gathered, we reflected—quite literally—and together, we unlocked the first inspirations for our debut fragrance. The theme Reflection sparked an incredible spectrum of interpretations, from mirror-like clarity to deep introspection, from blinding light to sacred rituals.

And for those who missed it (or haven't pieced it together from our last Instagram post): the perfumer shaping this first creation is none other than Chester Gibs! A rising star in the fragrance world, Chester will be bringing his vision to life under the banner of a newly formed fragrance publishing house dedicated to independent perfumers. Yes, that was the second big reveal of the night.

The discussions were nothing short of inspiring—imagine the scent of stillness, memory, and contemplation woven from incense, eucalyptus, tuberose, and even green pea. A fragrance that doesn’t just smell, but makes you think.

If this is just the beginning, we can’t wait to see where this journey takes us.

More to come soon.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Rebel perfumery, Malle Legacy, and Scent Saturation 💀🌊 

2. Strictly Independent: Extra Virgo 🇮🇹 

3. QUIZ: Ultra rare floral 🎲 

4. Scent MythBusters: Alcohol-Free Perfumes Are Safer for Sensitive Skin 🍾 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #REBELPERFUMERY: État Libre d’Orange turns 18, but founder Étienne de Swardt isn’t dialing down the provocation. With 1,100 stores in nearly 100 countries, the brand blends anarchy with strategy, leveraging digital growth and key partnerships with Mane and Givaudan. "Innovation always needs new blood," de Swardt asserts, proving that in niche perfumery, rebellion isn’t just an attitude—it’s a business model.

• #MALLELEGACY: Frédéric Malle’s Le Parfum de Thérèse epitomizes his mission to preserve perfumery as fine art. Originally a private love letter by Edmond Roudnitska, its release cemented Malle as a curator of olfactive masterpieces. More than a fruity chypre, it thrums with vegetal depth, capturing nature’s raw vibrancy. From luminous greenery to its melancholic dry-down, it embodies life’s duality—joy and decay, passion and loss—enshrining Malle’s legacy in scent’s most profound emotions.

• #SCENTSATURATION: Perfume’s boom is undeniable, but has obsession turned to overload? From TikTok-driven scent wardrobes to AI-generated formulas, fragrance is more accessible—and exhausting—than ever. Gen Z curates personas through scent, while brands flood the market with rapid-fire launches. The once-intimate ritual now feels like commodity culture, with collecting replacing signature scents.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 

Extra Virgo treats fragrance as a sacred craft, blending history, ritual, and raw natural materials. Founded by H.H Alex Postiglione Prince Ne Min Gy of Limbin, a descendant of Burma’s last royal dynasty, the brand sources botanicals from hidden family sanctuaries worldwide. With Italian perfumer Michele Marin, Extra Virgo creates deeply resinous, richly textured compositions that feel both ancient and alive. We experienced them firsthand at Esxence and were blown away by their quality, depth, and impressive longevity. His Highness, one of the most humble and passionate souls we’ve encountered, infuses every creation with a rare, almost reverent devotion to the art of perfumery.

Extra Virgo 🇮🇹 

• For Fans Of: If you admire Areej Le Doré’s opulence, Bogue Profumo’s raw intensity, or Hiram Green’s dedication to 100% natural perfumery, Extra Virgo offers a similarly uncompromising approach.

• Founded: Created in Florence by H.H. Alex Postiglione, blending royal lineage with a passion for plant science and anthropology.

• Perfumer: Michele Marin, known for his sophisticated blending of rare and vintage materials.

• Number of Scents: 5

QUIZ 🎲 

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Many believe alcohol-free perfumes are gentler on sensitive skin, but the truth is more complex. While ethanol (alcohol) evaporates quickly and reduces prolonged skin exposure, oil-based perfumes can retain allergens like limonene or linalool longer. In fact, EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 mandates allergen labeling on 26 compounds, many of which are naturally occurring in alcohol-free formulations. So, is "alcohol-free" really the safer choice? Not necessarily.

Alcohol: Friend or Foe?

The Misconception

Alcohol-free = skin-friendly. Since ethanol can be drying, many assume skipping it makes perfumes better for sensitive skin.

The Reality Check 🛑

While alcohol can be drying, it also speeds up evaporation, meaning potential irritants don’t linger on the skin as long. In contrast, oil-based or water-based perfumes can trap allergens, prolonging skin contact and increasing irritation risks.

Why Alcohol-Free Isn’t Always Safer 🧐

• Quick Evaporation = Less Irritation 🌬️
  Ethanol-based perfumes disperse scent and minimise skin exposure to potential allergens by evaporating quickly.

• Oil-Based Perfumes Hold onto Allergens 🛢️
  Essential oils and natural extracts contain compounds like linalool, citronellol, and eugenol, which are regulated allergens. Without ethanol, these stay on the skin longer, potentially increasing irritation.

• Regulatory Oversight 📜
  The EU Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 requires brands to list 26 allergens, many of which are naturally found in essential oils—so even ‘clean’ or ‘natural’ doesn’t mean allergy-free.

A Marketing Story With a Grain of Truth 🌱

• Why the Myth Persists 🤔
  Many brands market "alcohol-free" as synonymous with gentleness, tapping into the clean beauty trend. While it’s true that ethanol-free formulas may feel softer, they don’t eliminate allergens—they just change how they interact with your skin.

• Who Should Actually Avoid Alcohol? ✅
  Those with extreme dry skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis) may benefit from alcohol-free formulations. Otherwise, ethanol-based perfumes are often the safer option.

Verdict ⚖️

Alcohol-free perfumes may be less drying, but they can prolong exposure to allergens, meaning they are not inherently safer for sensitive skin. If you’re sensitive to fragrance, checking the ingredient list matters more than avoiding alcohol.

In Other Words...

"Alcohol-free" sounds gentler, but it can actually increase skin exposure to potential irritants. A well-formulated alcohol-based perfume might be the safer bet.