Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? In 2019, Dejan Levačić from Croatia created the world’s largest perfume bottle, holding an incredible 616 litres and inspired by Croatia's gold-panning heritage.

This issue is sponsored by JAN BARBA

Enjoy 15% off the newly launched Tabadin, released just yesterday!
Use promo code Scently15 at checkout.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: OSMO.AI: The moon landing moment for fragrances 🚀🌕️ 

2. Scent Pick: The new Tabadin by JAN BARBA 🧭 

3. Scent MythBusters: Smell is our most powerful memory sense 🧠🌹 

4. QUIZ: 70s and 80s scent classic 🪩🕶️ 

5. Scent Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Cocoa Notes 🍫 

Note-Worthy (OSMO.AI Special) 🚀🌕️

• #DIYFORMULA: Osmo Inspire, their new AI-powered tool, lets users design custom fragrances using words, images, and stories—just like a ChatGPT for perfume. Enter a description, and Inspire creates a fragrance formula mapped to Osmo’s Principal Odor Map. With a simple “Request Sample” click, users can receive a sample and make adjustments, like more peach or less vanilla. Plus, Inspire offers regulatory checks, reformulations, and pricing at a glance.

• #TEEPORTATION: Osmo's Scent Teleportation tech has achieved its first lab success, transmitting the scent of coconut across the room by digitising and recreating scent molecules. Powered by Osmo’s AI-driven Principle Odor Map and GCMS technology, this innovation captures a scent's essence in real-time, paving the way for a future where scents can be shared as easily as photos. With every trial, Osmo refines this process, bringing us closer to a world where scent becomes a truly transportable experience.

• #NEWSCENTMOLECULES: Osmo introduces three AI-discovered scent molecules—Glossine, Fractaline, and Quasarine—that elevate fragrance creation. Glossine’s bright floral scent works well on fabrics; Fractaline shifts between floral and citrus, and Quasarine delivers a jasmine-like intensity. Osmo’s Forge platform accelerates molecule development, producing unique, safe captives faster. This tech empowers perfumers with fresh, high-performance ingredients, redefining fragrance possibilities.

A Scent for Explorers of Unknown Lands 🧭🏜️ 

This month, we’re thrilled to feature Bart Puzio again, the creative force behind JAN BARBA, for an exclusive look into his latest release, Tabadin. This scent marks not just another addition to JAN BARBA’s portfolio but a celebration of adventure, timeless craftsmanship, and literary inspiration. Coincidentally, Bart was our first-ever interviewee, making this feature a special moment for Scently Speaking.

The Story of Tabadin

Inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s Wind, Sand, and Stars, Tabadin brings history to life with a modern touch. Bart distills the essence of bold explorers and aviators soaring over vast deserts, capturing their rugged yet sophisticated spirit. This fragrance embodies the freedom and tenacity of those early adventurers.

A Closer Look at the Scent

Tabadin opens with a subtle blend of lavender and clary sage, providing an aromatic and slightly floral touch. The heart is dominated by Cashmeran, a powerful tobacco-like note, balanced with rose and carnation, evoking both warmth and strength. The base lingers with leathery nuances, earthy patchouli, and deep resins like labdanum and Opoponax, giving the fragrance a grounded complexity that reflects Bart’s intent to honour explorers’ daring journeys.

In Bart’s Words

“Cashmeran’s tobacco and leather qualities create the backbone of Tabadin, invoking that rugged yet refined image of explorers wrapped in fur-lined jackets, flying over unknown lands,” Bart shared. “It’s about embodying adventure—dry, powdery, and filled with stories from the sands.”

JAN BARBA recently gained a major accolade from Luca Turin, the renowned fragrance critic, whose praise has elevated the young Polish brand onto the global radar of fragrance enthusiasts. This recognition solidifies Tabadin and JAN BARBA as must-experience names for anyone passionate about scent.

As a nod to our readers, we're offering an exclusive 15% discount on Tabadin with the code ‘Scently15’ until 30 November. Dive into Bart’s latest creation and experience a fragrance designed to evoke wanderlust and wonder.

Click here to get to the shop.

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

It's commonly believed that our sense of smell is uniquely linked to memory, making olfactory memories stronger and more vivid than those associated with other senses. While scents can indeed trigger powerful emotional responses, scientific research shows that olfactory memory is not inherently superior to visual or auditory memory in terms of accuracy or longevity. The perception of stronger scent-related memories stems from emotional impact rather than an actual enhancement in memory performance. Understanding this helps us appreciate the complex ways in which all our senses contribute to memory.

Unpacking the Olfactory Memory Myth 🧠🌹

The Temptation of Scent-Triggered Memories

Many people report that certain smells instantly transport them back to specific moments in their lives—a whiff of perfume reminding them of a loved one, or the scent of rain evoking childhood memories. This phenomenon has led to the widespread belief that our sense of smell is uniquely powerful in accessing memories.

The Scientific Reality 🛑

While olfactory cues can trigger memories, studies indicate that our ability to recall and recognise scents is not superior to our visual or auditory memory. In some cases, people find it more challenging to identify and remember smells accurately over time.

The Neuroscience Behind Scent and Memory 🧪🔬

Anatomical Connections

• Direct Pathways: The olfactory system has a direct link to the limbic system, particularly the amygdala and hippocampus, which are central to emotion and memory.

• Emotional Impact: This direct connection explains why smells can elicit strong emotional responses.

Research Findings

• Memory Accuracy: Studies show that people often struggle to recall or identify scents without visual cues.

• Comparison with Other Senses: Visual and auditory memories tend to be more precise and longer-lasting than olfactory memories.

• Emotional vs. Factual Recall: Scents may evoke feelings more than specific factual details.

Comparing Sensory Memories 🎨🎶🌺

Visual Memory 👀 

• High Fidelity: We can recall detailed images and recognise faces even after long periods.

• Reliability: Visual memory is often used in learning due to its robustness.

Auditory Memory 👂️ 

• Language and Music: Plays a crucial role in communication and recognising sounds.

• Recognition: We can often identify voices or tunes quickly.

Olfactory Memory 👃 

• Emotional Resonance: Strong at evoking emotions but less precise in recalling details.

• Identification Challenges: People frequently have difficulty naming scents without context.

Why the Myth Persists 🌟

Emotional Potency 💌 

• Memorable Experiences: Intense emotional reactions to scents make these memories stand out.

• Selective Attention: We remember instances when a smell triggered a memory but overlook when it doesn't.

Cultural Narratives 🎭️ 

• Literature and Media: Stories often emphasise the power of scent in memory, reinforcing the belief.

• Marketing Influence: Fragrance industries promote the idea to enhance the allure of their products.

Implications for Perfumery and Everyday Life 🧴🌍

Perfumery

• Crafting Experiences: Understanding that scent evokes emotion more than precise memories can guide perfumers in creating fragrances that resonate emotionally.

• Marketing Strategies: Brands may focus on the emotional appeal rather than claiming to unlock forgotten memories.

Personal Awareness

• Mindful Engagement: Recognising the emotional impact of scents can enhance our appreciation of everyday experiences.

• Memory Techniques: Relying on multiple senses may improve memory recall more than focusing on scent alone.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Cocoa Notes 🍫 

What Are Cocoa Notes?

Cocoa notes in perfumery capture the rich, warm, and indulgent aroma of cocoa beans from the Theobroma cacao tree, a member of the Malvaceae family. Native to Central and South America, cocoa has been treasured for centuries for its complex scent profile. In fragrances, cocoa notes evoke the essence of chocolate in its various forms—from bitter dark chocolate to creamy milk chocolate—adding depth and a gourmand touch to compositions. It’s a popular note, and perfumers often use accords to evoke the feeling of cocoa in a fragrance rather than relying solely on e.g. cocoa absolutes, allowing for versatility and control over the scent's intensity and character.

Origin 📍

The cocoa tree originates from the Amazon Basin in South America. Ancient civilisations like the Mayans and Aztecs revered cocoa as a sacred plant, using it in rituals and even as currency. Spanish explorers introduced cocoa to Europe in the 16th century, where it quickly gained popularity. Today, cocoa is cultivated in tropical regions worldwide, with major production areas in West Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: Warm, rich, and slightly bitter with sweet, creamy undertones; notes of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and subtle hints of vanilla.

• Main Components: Theobromine, phenylethylamine, caffeine, various fatty acids, and polyphenols.

• Harvest Time: Typically twice a year, with main and mid-harvest seasons depending upon the region.

• Uses: Perfumery, flavouring in culinary applications, cosmetics for moisturising and antioxidant properties.

Types of Cocoa Notes in Perfumery 🌰

Cocoa notes can vary widely based on the extraction method, part of the plant used, and the bean's origin:

• Cocoa Absolute: Obtained via solvent extraction, offering a deep, rich chocolate scent.

• Cocoa CO₂ Extract: Utilises supercritical CO₂ for extraction, capturing the pure and complex aroma.

• Roasted Cocoa: Emphasizes warm, toasty notes reminiscent of roasted beans.

• Cocoa Butter: Provides a soft, creamy scent with subtle chocolate nuances.

• Cocoa Blossom: Derived from the flowers, offering a lighter, more floral interpretation.

• Cocoa Powder: Contributes a dry, dusty chocolate note.

• Cocoa Leaf: Offers green, slightly bitter nuances.

• Regional Varieties:

  • Venezuelan Cocoa: Known for a rich and complex aroma.

  • Ghanaian Cocoa: Offers a robust, full-bodied scent.

  • Ecuadorian Cocoa: Prized for fine flavor and floral notes.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Cocoa trees thrive in humid, tropical climates near the equator, requiring consistent temperatures and ample rainfall. They grow best in rich, well-drained soils and benefit from partial shade provided by larger trees. The trees produce pods containing seeds (beans) after about 3–5 years. Key cultivation areas include:

• Côte d'Ivoire: The world's largest cocoa producer, supplying over 40% of global cocoa.

• Ghana: Renowned for high-quality beans with unique flavor profiles.

• Indonesia: A significant producer focusing on bulk cocoa.

• Ecuador: Known for fine-flavor cocoa, highly valued in premium chocolates and fragrances.

From Harvest to Fragrance: The Extraction Process 🌿

Harvesting ✂️

• Timing: Cocoa pods are harvested when ripe, indicated by a color change depending on the variety.

• Method: Harvesting is done manual; workers cut pods from trees using sharp tools to prevent damage.

Processing ⚙️

• Fermentation: Beans are fermented for several days to develop flavour and reduce bitterness.

• Drying: Sun-drying reduces moisture content, preventing mold and preparing beans for roasting.

• Roasting: Enhances aroma and flavour, crucial for extracting scent compounds.

• Extraction Methods:

  • Solvent Extraction: Produces cocoa absolute, a concentrated aromatic material ideal for perfumery.

  • CO₂ Extraction: Yields cocoa CO₂ extract, capturing the pure essence of cocoa without solvent residue.

Products Obtained 📦️

• Cocoa Absolute: A thick, dark brown liquid with an intense chocolate aroma used in perfumery.

• Cocoa CO₂ Extract: A pure, solvent-free extract preserving the natural scent.

• Cocoa Butter: Used in cosmetics and sometimes in fragrances for its creamy scent.

• Cocoa Powder: While primarily for culinary use, its aroma can inspire fragrance notes.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Cocoa notes add a luxurious, gourmand dimension to fragrances, evoking warmth and sensuality. They serve as middle to base notes, enriching the scent profile. Cocoa blends well with:

• Oriental Notes: Vanilla, amber, tonka bean.

• Woody Notes: Sandalwood, patchouli, cedarwood.

• Floral Notes: Jasmine, orange blossom, rose.

• Spicy Notes: Cinnamon, clove, nutmeg.

• Other Gourmand Notes: Caramel, honey, coffee, almond.