Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

You’ve spoken, and we’re making it happen.

Next Steps

📅 Mid-to-late February – We will reveal the fragrance theme.
🎨 Live session – Share your inspirations: songs, moods, experiences, and scent notes.
🖌️ Co-creation – The perfumer and our team will craft the briefing, incorporating your input.
📜 Recognition – If your idea is chosen, your name will be credited in the final release.

🎟️ Want to Join the Live Kickoff Call?

Be part of a 45-60 min session with the perfumer, me (Sebastian), and select community members. This is your chance to directly shape the concept and inspire the creation process. Let’s create something unforgettable. 🚀

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Lost formulas, smell training, and the New Tom Ford 🧪👃 

2. Strictly Independent: Ephemeral Dyadic 🇹🇷 

3. QUIZ: Selling star in Africa ⭐️ 🌍️ 

4. Scent MythBusters: When It Comes to Big-Box Retail, Great Juice Always Wins 📈 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #SCENTREFORMULATIONS: Miguel Matos on Fragrantica sheds light on the impact of IFRA restrictions, lost formulas, and ageing on fragrances. Reformulations often alter classics, with some, like Chanel No. 5, maintaining their identity, while others, such as Dior’s Poison, falter. Thoughtful updates can restore or enhance a scent’s essence, but preserving olfactory heritage remains a complex challenge.

• #FOLLOWYOURNOSE: The Guardian's Jonas Olofsson explores how smell profoundly influences memory, emotion, and well-being. Often overlooked, scents like ocean breezes or city streets vividly evoke experiences. Smell training can boost cognition, reduce stress, and improve mental health. Olofsson also highlights “smell-walking” to explore unique “smellscapes,” fostering deeper connections to places and ourselves.

• #NEWTOMFORD: Tom Ford introduces John David Washington, star of BlacKkKlansman and son of Denzel Washington, as the face of its new fragrance, Bois Pacifique. Photographed by David Sims, the campaign follows Washington through Northern California’s Big Sur and redwoods on a journey of self-discovery. Launched on 21 January, the woody scent features sandalwood, cedar, oakwood, cardamom, akigalawood, and turmeric, reflecting Tom Ford's vision of fearless self-expression.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 

Ephemeral Dyadic emerges from Istanbul’s indie art scene, blending raw creativity with deeply personal storytelling. Unlike Nishane’s polished and internationally acclaimed collections, Ephemeral Dyadic focuses on the fleeting and intimate, crafting fragrances like Liquid Skin and Dark Dreams that mirror life’s transient moments. A true niche gem for those who crave unfiltered artistry.

Ephemeral Dyadic 🇹🇷 

• For Fans Of: The boundary-pushing creativity and rich narratives of Nishane, with a focus on individuality and emotional depth. Ephemeral Dyadic boldly creates 100% synthetic fragrances that push creative boundaries, proving artistry knows no limits in modern perfumery.

• Founded: By Sinan Saül in Istanbul, Turkey, as a passion project rooted in art and individuality.

• Number of Scents: Eight evocative creations, each a personal narrative etched in scent.

QUIZ 🎲 

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Large chains, prime department stores and duty free operators favour brands with significant marketing budgets and consistent packaging, leaving little room for artisanal labels. Outstanding scent alone rarely cuts through these pay-to-play systems, which makes many niche gems hard to find in mainstream stores.

Unpacking the Myth 🕵️‍♀️

The Misconception

The Reality Check 🛑

Big retailers operate on profit guarantees and strong partnerships with global conglomerates. Small brands must pay steep listing fees, conform to rigid aesthetic requirements, and secure costly distribution deals—often impossible for artisan perfumers. As a result, even brilliant fragrances remain in boutique or online niches, overshadowed by corporate giants that dominate the shelves.

The Retail “Mafia” Problem

1. Pay-to-Play
   Many department stores charge steep display or “marketing partnership” fees. For indie perfumers operating on tight margins, it’s a non-starter.

2. Bottle Aesthetics
   Retailers often demand flashy, mainstream-friendly designs—expensive to produce and off-brand for many artisanal houses.

3. Distribution Gatekeepers
   Preferred distributors lock up shelf space and push bulk deals, leaving little room for smaller, standalone labels.

Why Your Favourite Indie Gems Stay Underground

Despite a growing taste for unique scents, major retailers lean on proven bestsellers from conglomerates like L’Oréal or Estée Lauder. Niche perfumers who can’t pay top dollar or deliver standardised packaging remain sidelined—making their products a rare find for the broader public.

Workarounds for Indie Brands

• Boutique Partnerships
  Select fragrance shops and concept stores champion lesser-known labels.

• Online Platforms
  Websites like Luckyscent or brand webshops offer global reach without the retail stronghold.

• Fairs & Pop-Ups
  Dedicated expos (Esxence, Pitti Fragranze) help small brands connect with hardcore aficionados and the press.