The Aged Fragrance Secret, Revealed šŸ˜®

Hello, Fragrant Friend šŸ‘‹,

Did you know? The city of Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh, India, is considered the "Grasse of India," renowned for its centuries-old attar production and ancient distillation methods.

This issue is sponsored by PIGMENTARIUM

A Czech fragrance house crafting ethical, artful perfumes that evolve with every wearerā€”revealing stories, honouring sustainability, and blending local craftsmanship with timeless memories.

šŸ—“ļø Contents of this Issue

  1. Note Worthy: New niche brand, Swarovski Scents, Rolling Stones šŸ’ŽšŸŖØ 

  2. Strictly Independent: PIGMENTARIUM šŸ‡ØšŸ‡æ 

  3. Scent MythBusters: Aging Fragrances Is Just Like Aging Whiskey or Wine šŸ„ƒ 

  4. QUIZ: Most famous notes of 2024 šŸ’« 

  5. Flower Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Benzoin šŸ¤Ž 

Note-Worthy šŸ”ŽšŸŒø

  • #NEWNICHEBRAND: Manuel Attardiā€™s debut perfume collection transforms mythological archetypes into olfactory art, strongly supported by Miguel Matos. Themes of creativity, romance, and freedom shine through scents like Ophelia, inspired by pre-Raphaelite art, and Pelle di Fauno, a bold tribute to untamed sensuality. Available in extrait concentration, with a 22ā‚¬ discovery kit, Matos describes the collection as ā€œemotions turned into artā€ā€”a standout in niche perfumery.

  • #CRYSTALCOLLAB: Coty partners with Swarovski to launch fragrance and beauty lines by 2026, combining Swarovskiā€™s 140+ country reach and 2,300 boutiques with Cotyā€™s fragrance expertise. Fragrance, as a wearable accessory, aligns with Swarovskiā€™s "Pop Luxury" ethos, making this partnership a smart move in merging beauty and fashion. This collaboration reflects both brands' focus on innovation and individuality.

  • #ROCKONSCENT: The Rolling Stones make their fine fragrance debut with RS No. 9, inspired by their iconic Carnaby Street storefront and Soho roots from 1962. Created in partnership with Nirvana Brands and Bravado, this limited edition of 999 bottles blends bergamot, leather, and oud to capture the bandā€™s bold essence. More than just a scent, itā€™s a collectorā€™s item tying rock history to modern perfumery

Strictly Independent šŸŽØ āœØ

PIGMENTARIUM draws inspiration from Pragueā€™s vibrant cultural heritage, creating genderless fragrances that blend timeless elegance with modern design. Each scent tells a story, often accompanied by artistic collaborations and visual campaigns that reflect the brandā€™s deep connection to art and architecture.

PIGMENTARIUM šŸ‡ØšŸ‡æ 

  • For Fans Of: Ideal for those who appreciate Diptyqueā€™s artistic rootsā€”founded by an interior designer, a theatre set designer, and a painterā€”and their distinctive hand-drawn labels that blend craftsmanship with creativity. PIGMENTARIUM embraces a kindred vision, drawing inspiration from pioneering modernist architects and designers to create scents that bridge past and present. Here, fragrance is an artistic dialogue, connecting natural purity, inventive forms, and a shared admiration for cultural icons old and new.

  • Founded: Established by creative director TomĆ”Å” Ric in 2018.

  • Headquarters: Prague, Czech Republic.

  • Number of Scents: 8

Azabache Chapter 2

Created in collaboration with fashion designer Arturo Obegero, Azabache Chapter 2 reflects the imagination and elegance of a young Spanish artist in Paris. It combines vibrant bergamot and pink pepper with a floral heart of rose and jasmine. Labdanum and myrrh add a rich, resinous base, softened by cedar and musk for an elegant, timeless finish.

Erotikon

Erotikon draws inspiration from Gustav MachatĆ½'s provocative film, channeling themes of love and seduction into an indulgent, gourmand fragrance. It begins with the richness of chocolate, spiced with ginger and pink pepper. Vanilla and tonka bean add warmth, while amber and sandalwood provide a seductive, creamy finish.

Murmur

Murmur is a tribute to quiet moments of reflection, blending mystery and warmth into a scent that whispers rather than shouts. It opens with the golden warmth of amber, leading to a heart of patchouli and delicate rose. The base reveals an intriguing blend of oud, musk, and civet, creating a warm, enveloping aura that lingers softly on the skin.

Paradiso

Inspired by carefree Mediterranean holidays, Paradiso captures the zest and energy of sun-soaked days by the sea. Grapefruit and tangerine bring a citrusy brightness, balanced by rhubarb and juniper. Vetiver and patchouli add depth, while warm amber leaves a lasting, sunlit impression.

This holiday season, PIGMENTARIUM offers a range of exclusive promotions to delight fragrance enthusiasts šŸŽ„ šŸŽ 

  • Personalised Engraving: Add a personal touch with complimentary monogram engraving on each bottle purchased until midnight on Friday, December 13th, 2024 šŸ˜ 

  • Complimentary 10ml Fragrance: Receive a 10ml perfume of your choice with every 50ml bottle purchased.

  • Discovery Sets: Explore PIGMENTARIUMā€™s diverse fragrance universe with curated discovery sets, featuring selections of their unique perfumes and incense sticks.

Erotikon was my first and so far only gourmand-style perfume and was and is my ā€˜SOTDā€™ for Christmas Eve 2023 and 2024.

Sebastian (author of this newsletter)

Scent MythBusters šŸŽ­ļø 

ā

Aging Fragrances Is Just Like Aging Whiskey or Wine

Myth of the week

TL;DR

The notion that fragrances gain complexity and depth by aging in wood barrelsā€”like fine wines or whiskeysā€”is more nuanced than it sounds. While short-term maceration can refine a scent, prolonged aging and wooden infusions may not transform a fragrance as dramatically as the romantic story suggests. Still, some niche brands, such as Amouage with their ā€˜Essencesā€™ line, are experimenting with these techniques, aiming for subtle enhancements rather than radical alchemy.

Aging Fragrances: A New Frontier?

The Misconception
Itā€™s easy to assume that fragrances, like premium spirits, get better and richer with extended agingā€”especially when brands use terms like ā€œbarrel-agedā€ or ā€œdouble-infused.ā€

The Reality Check šŸ›‘
While a settling period (maceration) helps blend and smooth out notes, perfumes are not living, fermenting products like wine. The intricate chemical transformations that occur in a cask of whiskey over years donā€™t unfold in the same way for bottled scents. Yet, some artisanal methods can impart subtle changes that slightly deepen or refine a fragranceā€™s profile.

Subtle Changes vs. Profound Transformations šŸŒˆ

Short-Term Maceration ā²ļø 

  • Standard Practice: Many perfumers let blends rest for weeks or months so ingredients can harmonize.

  • Result: A smoother, more cohesive scent that avoids harsh, jarring edges.

Wooden Infusions šŸŖµ 

  • Barrel & Chips Experimentation: Infusing fragrance compositions with sandalwood chips or aging them in oak barrels (as seen in Amouageā€™s ā€œEssencesā€ line) may add delicate, woody nuances.

  • Expect Nuance, Not Reinvention: Donā€™t expect a total metamorphosis. These techniques tweak the scentā€™s texture rather than rewriting its DNA.

A Marketing Story With a Grain of Truth šŸŒ±

  • Allure of Artisanal Methods: Linking fragrance to the romance of aged whiskey or vintage wine can capture imaginations, appealing to connoisseurs who value craftsmanship.

  • Minor Complexity Gains: While there may be real, if subtle, aromatic shifts, the narrative often outpaces the measurable impact on scent quality.

A Real-World Example: Amouageā€™s ā€˜Essencesā€™ šŸ‡“šŸ‡²

Product Information Snapshot from amouage.com

  • What Theyā€™re Doing: Amouageā€™s ā€˜Essencesā€˜ line claims extended aging and double-infusion with sandalwood chips and oakwood barrels.

  • The Promise: A deeper, more layered scent experience, hinting at complexity akin to aged spirits.

  • The Reality: While you might notice nuanced depth or an extra smoothness, itā€™s still far from the dramatic evolution seen in barrel-aged whiskey.

Verdict āš–ļø

Myth Busted (With Caveats)
Extended aging and wood infusion can yield subtle enhancements, adding a whisper of complexity and richness to fragrances. However, these changes are often modest and canā€™t match the transformative magic of long-aged wines or whiskies. The technique is as much about telling a compelling story of artisanal luxury as it is about achieving new olfactory heights.

In Other Words
Consider these aging claims a finishing touchā€”not the secret sauce that revolutionises perfume.

QUIZ šŸŽ² 

Which fragrance notes have been the most popular in 2024 so far?

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All You Need to Know About Benzoin šŸ¤Ž 

Did You Know? šŸŒŸ

Benzoin resin has traveled along ancient trade routes, once burned as incense to clear the air, calm the spirit, andā€”according to one storyā€”drive away snakes during frankincense harvests in Southern Arabia. Today, it continues to bring comfort and warmth wherever its fragrance appears.

Benzoin: The Cozy Storyteller of Fragrance šŸŽ©

Imagine Benzoin as a gentle, reassuring voice telling stories beside a glowing hearth. Its sweet, vanilla-like aroma is enriched with soft hints of musk, making it feel both soothing and familiar. Whether in perfume, incense, or candle form, Benzoin wraps you in a calm, velvety warmth thatā€™s as comforting as a soft blanket on a chilly evening.

Fragrance DNA šŸ§¬

  • Personality: Warm, Comforting, Nurturing

  • Aroma Strength: 7/10

  • Best Paired With: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Rose, and Amber

  • Secret Weapon: Acts as a fixative, slowing the evaporation of other scents, deepening their presence, and enhancing their staying power

Benzoinā€™s Journey šŸ—ŗļø

  • Origin & Habitat: Obtained from the bark of Styrax (Snowbell) trees, native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Some species also appear in the Americas. These trees may grow near streams or under the protective shade of taller forest canopies.

  • Harvest: Collectors tap the trees to produce ā€˜tearsā€™ of resin. In places like Laos and Vietnam, local communities climb wild Styrax trees, gathering the precious Benzoin by hand.

  • Aroma Profile: Sweet, balsamic, and reminiscent of vanilla and honeyed wood

  • Perfumery Use: Favoured as a fixative in perfumes, incense, and even candles and cosmetics; also used for flavouring in gum, candies, and beverages.

A Fascinating Fact šŸ“–

In traditional medicine, benzoin has been a key ingredient in ā€œFriarā€™s Balsamā€ (Tincture of Benzoin), a remedy historically used to soothe minor skin irritations and ease breathing when inhaled as steam. This blend highlights benzoinā€™s gentle antiseptic and comforting properties, extending its influence beyond fragrance into the realm of healing and care.

Most Notable Benzoin Fragrances šŸ’«

  • Bois d'ArmĆ©nie by Guerlain (2006) - Woody, Spicy, Sweet

  • Ani by Nishane (2019) - Sweet, Spicy, Gourmand

  • Taklamakan by StĆ©phane Humbert Lucas (2016) - Spicy, Woody, Ambery

  • Angelā€™s Dust by Francesca Bianchi (2016) - Floral, Powdery, Sweet

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