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- The Aged Fragrance Secret, Revealed š®
The Aged Fragrance Secret, Revealed š®
Hello, Fragrant Friend š,
Did you know? The city of Kannauj in Uttar Pradesh, India, is considered the "Grasse of India," renowned for its centuries-old attar production and ancient distillation methods.
This issue is sponsored by PIGMENTARIUM
A Czech fragrance house crafting ethical, artful perfumes that evolve with every wearerārevealing stories, honouring sustainability, and blending local craftsmanship with timeless memories.
šļø Contents of this Issue
Note Worthy: New niche brand, Swarovski Scents, Rolling Stones ššŖØ
Strictly Independent: PIGMENTARIUM šØšæ
Scent MythBusters: Aging Fragrances Is Just Like Aging Whiskey or Wine š„
QUIZ: Most famous notes of 2024 š«
Flower Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Benzoin š¤
Note-Worthy ššø
#NEWNICHEBRAND: Manuel Attardiās debut perfume collection transforms mythological archetypes into olfactory art, strongly supported by Miguel Matos. Themes of creativity, romance, and freedom shine through scents like Ophelia, inspired by pre-Raphaelite art, and Pelle di Fauno, a bold tribute to untamed sensuality. Available in extrait concentration, with a 22ā¬ discovery kit, Matos describes the collection as āemotions turned into artāāa standout in niche perfumery.
#CRYSTALCOLLAB: Coty partners with Swarovski to launch fragrance and beauty lines by 2026, combining Swarovskiās 140+ country reach and 2,300 boutiques with Cotyās fragrance expertise. Fragrance, as a wearable accessory, aligns with Swarovskiās "Pop Luxury" ethos, making this partnership a smart move in merging beauty and fashion. This collaboration reflects both brands' focus on innovation and individuality.
#ROCKONSCENT: The Rolling Stones make their fine fragrance debut with RS No. 9, inspired by their iconic Carnaby Street storefront and Soho roots from 1962. Created in partnership with Nirvana Brands and Bravado, this limited edition of 999 bottles blends bergamot, leather, and oud to capture the bandās bold essence. More than just a scent, itās a collectorās item tying rock history to modern perfumery
Strictly Independent šØ āØ
PIGMENTARIUM draws inspiration from Pragueās vibrant cultural heritage, creating genderless fragrances that blend timeless elegance with modern design. Each scent tells a story, often accompanied by artistic collaborations and visual campaigns that reflect the brandās deep connection to art and architecture.
PIGMENTARIUM šØšæ
For Fans Of: Ideal for those who appreciate Diptyqueās artistic rootsāfounded by an interior designer, a theatre set designer, and a painterāand their distinctive hand-drawn labels that blend craftsmanship with creativity. PIGMENTARIUM embraces a kindred vision, drawing inspiration from pioneering modernist architects and designers to create scents that bridge past and present. Here, fragrance is an artistic dialogue, connecting natural purity, inventive forms, and a shared admiration for cultural icons old and new.
Founded: Established by creative director TomĆ”Å” Ric in 2018.
Headquarters: Prague, Czech Republic.
Number of Scents: 8
Azabache Chapter 2Created in collaboration with fashion designer Arturo Obegero, Azabache Chapter 2 reflects the imagination and elegance of a young Spanish artist in Paris. It combines vibrant bergamot and pink pepper with a floral heart of rose and jasmine. Labdanum and myrrh add a rich, resinous base, softened by cedar and musk for an elegant, timeless finish. |
ErotikonErotikon draws inspiration from Gustav MachatĆ½'s provocative film, channeling themes of love and seduction into an indulgent, gourmand fragrance. It begins with the richness of chocolate, spiced with ginger and pink pepper. Vanilla and tonka bean add warmth, while amber and sandalwood provide a seductive, creamy finish. |
MurmurMurmur is a tribute to quiet moments of reflection, blending mystery and warmth into a scent that whispers rather than shouts. It opens with the golden warmth of amber, leading to a heart of patchouli and delicate rose. The base reveals an intriguing blend of oud, musk, and civet, creating a warm, enveloping aura that lingers softly on the skin. |
ParadisoInspired by carefree Mediterranean holidays, Paradiso captures the zest and energy of sun-soaked days by the sea. Grapefruit and tangerine bring a citrusy brightness, balanced by rhubarb and juniper. Vetiver and patchouli add depth, while warm amber leaves a lasting, sunlit impression. |
This holiday season, PIGMENTARIUM offers a range of exclusive promotions to delight fragrance enthusiasts š š
Personalised Engraving: Add a personal touch with complimentary monogram engraving on each bottle purchased until midnight on Friday, December 13th, 2024 š
Complimentary 10ml Fragrance: Receive a 10ml perfume of your choice with every 50ml bottle purchased.
Discovery Sets: Explore PIGMENTARIUMās diverse fragrance universe with curated discovery sets, featuring selections of their unique perfumes and incense sticks.
Erotikon was my first and so far only gourmand-style perfume and was and is my āSOTDā for Christmas Eve 2023 and 2024.
Scent MythBusters šļø
Aging Fragrances Is Just Like Aging Whiskey or Wine
TL;DR
The notion that fragrances gain complexity and depth by aging in wood barrelsālike fine wines or whiskeysāis more nuanced than it sounds. While short-term maceration can refine a scent, prolonged aging and wooden infusions may not transform a fragrance as dramatically as the romantic story suggests. Still, some niche brands, such as Amouage with their āEssencesā line, are experimenting with these techniques, aiming for subtle enhancements rather than radical alchemy.
Aging Fragrances: A New Frontier?
The Misconception
Itās easy to assume that fragrances, like premium spirits, get better and richer with extended agingāespecially when brands use terms like ābarrel-agedā or ādouble-infused.ā
The Reality Check š
While a settling period (maceration) helps blend and smooth out notes, perfumes are not living, fermenting products like wine. The intricate chemical transformations that occur in a cask of whiskey over years donāt unfold in the same way for bottled scents. Yet, some artisanal methods can impart subtle changes that slightly deepen or refine a fragranceās profile.
Subtle Changes vs. Profound Transformations š
Short-Term Maceration ā²ļø
Standard Practice: Many perfumers let blends rest for weeks or months so ingredients can harmonize.
Result: A smoother, more cohesive scent that avoids harsh, jarring edges.
Wooden Infusions šŖµ
Barrel & Chips Experimentation: Infusing fragrance compositions with sandalwood chips or aging them in oak barrels (as seen in Amouageās āEssencesā line) may add delicate, woody nuances.
Expect Nuance, Not Reinvention: Donāt expect a total metamorphosis. These techniques tweak the scentās texture rather than rewriting its DNA.
A Marketing Story With a Grain of Truth š±
Allure of Artisanal Methods: Linking fragrance to the romance of aged whiskey or vintage wine can capture imaginations, appealing to connoisseurs who value craftsmanship.
Minor Complexity Gains: While there may be real, if subtle, aromatic shifts, the narrative often outpaces the measurable impact on scent quality.
A Real-World Example: Amouageās āEssencesā š“š²
Product Information Snapshot from amouage.com
What Theyāre Doing: Amouageās āEssencesā line claims extended aging and double-infusion with sandalwood chips and oakwood barrels.
The Promise: A deeper, more layered scent experience, hinting at complexity akin to aged spirits.
The Reality: While you might notice nuanced depth or an extra smoothness, itās still far from the dramatic evolution seen in barrel-aged whiskey.
Verdict āļø
Myth Busted (With Caveats)
Extended aging and wood infusion can yield subtle enhancements, adding a whisper of complexity and richness to fragrances. However, these changes are often modest and canāt match the transformative magic of long-aged wines or whiskies. The technique is as much about telling a compelling story of artisanal luxury as it is about achieving new olfactory heights.
In Other Words
Consider these aging claims a finishing touchānot the secret sauce that revolutionises perfume.
QUIZ š²
Which fragrance notes have been the most popular in 2024 so far? |
All You Need to Know About Benzoin š¤
Did You Know? š
Benzoin resin has traveled along ancient trade routes, once burned as incense to clear the air, calm the spirit, andāaccording to one storyādrive away snakes during frankincense harvests in Southern Arabia. Today, it continues to bring comfort and warmth wherever its fragrance appears.
Benzoin: The Cozy Storyteller of Fragrance š©
Imagine Benzoin as a gentle, reassuring voice telling stories beside a glowing hearth. Its sweet, vanilla-like aroma is enriched with soft hints of musk, making it feel both soothing and familiar. Whether in perfume, incense, or candle form, Benzoin wraps you in a calm, velvety warmth thatās as comforting as a soft blanket on a chilly evening.
Fragrance DNA š§¬
Personality: Warm, Comforting, Nurturing
Aroma Strength: 7/10
Best Paired With: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Rose, and Amber
Secret Weapon: Acts as a fixative, slowing the evaporation of other scents, deepening their presence, and enhancing their staying power
Benzoinās Journey šŗļø
Origin & Habitat: Obtained from the bark of Styrax (Snowbell) trees, native to tropical regions of Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Some species also appear in the Americas. These trees may grow near streams or under the protective shade of taller forest canopies.
Harvest: Collectors tap the trees to produce ātearsā of resin. In places like Laos and Vietnam, local communities climb wild Styrax trees, gathering the precious Benzoin by hand.
Aroma Profile: Sweet, balsamic, and reminiscent of vanilla and honeyed wood
Perfumery Use: Favoured as a fixative in perfumes, incense, and even candles and cosmetics; also used for flavouring in gum, candies, and beverages.
A Fascinating Fact š
In traditional medicine, benzoin has been a key ingredient in āFriarās Balsamā (Tincture of Benzoin), a remedy historically used to soothe minor skin irritations and ease breathing when inhaled as steam. This blend highlights benzoinās gentle antiseptic and comforting properties, extending its influence beyond fragrance into the realm of healing and care.
Most Notable Benzoin Fragrances š«
Bois d'ArmƩnie by Guerlain (2006) - Woody, Spicy, Sweet
Ani by Nishane (2019) - Sweet, Spicy, Gourmand
Taklamakan by StƩphane Humbert Lucas (2016) - Spicy, Woody, Ambery
Angelās Dust by Francesca Bianchi (2016) - Floral, Powdery, Sweet
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