Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋

Did you know? Deepscent, a startup from Seoul, offers a groundbreaking way to experience scents with their 'FaaS' (Fragrance as a Service) solutions. Customise up to 256 home fragrance combinations in real-time, tailored to your needs. Currently commercialising, Deepscent is set to revolutionise how we perceive indoor environments.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Coconut, Scent Tourism, House of Naturals

2. Story: The Smell of a Tiger’s Roar 🐅🌸

3. QUIZ: How well do you know Cypriol?

4. Raw Materials: Cypriol (Nagarmotha) 🌿

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• Among the top trending scent notes, coconutfragrances 🥥 seem to have the strongest momentum (reference 1, reference 2) with many new niche launches in Oceania, the UK, Nigeria, and the US.

• Oman and Amouage are collaborating to enhance cultural heritage and tourism through ‘Fragrance Tourism’. Their initiative focuses on producing high-qualityfrankincense responsibly while promoting tourism and cultural activities at historic sites to create a transparent and sustainable industry.

• House of Naturals by Givaudan aims to produce the most sustainable natural fine fragrancematerials by focusing on responsible sourcing, innovative extraction methods, and combining tradition with modern techniques. This initiative enhances quality and creativity, meeting the demand for eco-friendly scents.

The Smell of a Tiger's Roar 🐅🌸

Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with Anjali Vandemark, the founder of Anjali Perfumes. Her journey into the world of perfumery is deeply intertwined with her rich cultural heritage and personal experiences.

How did you become a perfumer?

My journey began during a winter in London, where I first encountered snow. The dreariness of the season made me homesick, and the sound of a cuckoo bird in an Indian movie transported me back to the vibrant summers of India. This experience ignited my passion for exploring scent memories and eventually led me to experiment with essential oils, seeking to connect with my roots and make America my new home through fragrance after having relocated from London, UK.

Himalayan Dawn by Anjali Perfumes

Inspiration: Inspired by a journey to the Himalayas, this fragrance captures the essence of a serene dawn in the ancient, majestic mountain range. The creator envisioned the scent of fresh, cold air filled with the aroma of pines and firs, mingling with the purity of a rushing river—a true reflection of nature's untouched beauty.

Scent Type: Fresh, Citrusy, Herbal, Woody

Notes:
- Top: Neroli, Bergamot, Verbena 🍊
- Heart: Black tea, Fir needle, Chamomile 🌲
-Base: Sandalwood, Jasmine sambac abs., Bulgarian Rose abs., Haitian Vetiver 🌿

What Others Say: "Himalayan Dawn is for those who cherish the tranquility and purity of nature. It's a fresh and invigorating scent that evokes the feeling of a cool, misty morning in the Himalayas. The blend of citrusy top notes with herbal and woody undertones creates a fragrance that is both refreshing and grounding. It’s ideal for those who love crisp, natural scents with a touch of floral and green nuances."

Tell me about 'Himalayan Dawn'. What inspired it?

'Himalayan Dawn' is inspired by my travels to Bhutan, a land of breathtaking beauty. One vivid memory is trying to cross a shallow river, unprepared for the shock of the cold glacier water. This experience made me acutely aware of the ancient grandeur of our planet. The Tiger's Nest Monastery, a temple perched on a mountain edge, embodies the spirit of human ambition. The difficult trek to reach it made me marvel at our ability to build such inspiring structures in difficult terrains. I wanted to capture this spirit of timelessness and ambition in my perfume.

How did you realise those inspirations in the fragrance?

To capture the essence of 'Himalayan Dawn,' I created special accords to evoke the fresh, watery feel of the Himalayas. I used fennel and cardamom, which are integral to my Indian heritage, to achieve a cool, refreshing aroma without resorting to typical citrus notes. The fennel accord, inspired by the Indian Paan leaf, provides a green, leafy freshness. Cardamom adds a cool, spicy undertone. These spices, along with other elements, help create a fragrance that feels like a breath of fresh mountain air. I also wanted to incorporate the sense of tranquility and timelessness I felt in the Himalayas, so I included softer notes that evoke the peacefulness of the mountain landscape.

Let's talk about 'Tiger Bright'. What inspired this fragrance?

'Tiger Bright' is inspired by the tiger reserves near my hometown of Nagpur. Visiting these reserves, especially during safaris, I was struck by the raw power and majestic presence of the tigers. The feeling of seeing a tiger in its natural habitat, knowing it could approach at any moment, is both awe-inspiring and humbling. The bright, intense sunlight of the region and the vibrant life of the jungle around these tigers also influenced my vision for this fragrance. I wanted to capture this intense, untamed energy and the vibrant environment in a fragrance.

Tiger Bright by Anjali Perfumes

Inspiration: Inspired by the tiger reserves near my hometown in Nagpur, India, Tiger Bright captures the thrilling essence of a jungle safari. The roar of a tigress, the dry summer heat, and the scent of woods and leaves influenced its creation. Jasmine sambac represents the early morning bloom, and a hint of orange adds a sharp, sweet note, embodying the wild beauty of the jungle. 🐯

Scent Type: Woody, Spicy

Notes:
- Top: Orange 🍊
- Heart: Jasmine sambac abs., Patchouli, Nagarmotha, Iris abs. 🍃
- Base: Cedarwood, Indian vetiver, Indian sandalwood, Patchouli, Tobacco abs., Amber, Leather 🌲
➡️Spice Accord: Black Pepper, Cloves, Coriander, Turmeric 🔥🌶️

What Others Say: “Tiger Bright is for those who seek the thrill and raw power of nature. It's a woody and spicy fragrance that evokes the excitement of a jungle safari. The blend of rich spices, deep woody notes, and the refreshing hint of orange creates a scent that is both invigorating and grounding. Perfect for those who love bold, earthy fragrances with a touch of spice and floral freshness.”

How did you translate that inspiration into a perfume?

To convey the essence of 'Tiger Bright,' I used three key spices: cloves, turmeric, and Cypriol (Nagarmotha). Cloves provide a biting spiciness, akin to the fierce energy of a tiger. Turmeric, with its earthy and pungent aroma, adds depth and warmth, reminiscent of the dry, hot climate of my hometown. Cypriol, a rhizome with a dark, leathery quality, brings a sense of mystery and intensity. These elements together create a bold, daring fragrance that embodies the strength and majesty of the tiger. Additionally, I included notes of leather and amber to enhance the dark, richundertones, creating a multi-layered scent that reflects the complexity and power of the tiger's presence.

Can you describe your artistic process?

The materials I use, around 400, are like a color palette that every perfumer has. What I bring to my art is using these materials and tying them to a story. Each perfume has an inspiration and often a drawing. For example, ‘Mantra’ and ‘Jaya’ were inspired by a painting from the 1800s. This approach helps me create olfactory stories that wearers can connect with deeply.

What are your plans for next year?

I'm working on projects that involve installation art using aroma materials, aiming to bring the sensory experience of smell into the mainstream art world. I also plan to collaborate more with art galleries and expand my presence in physical stores. Additionally, I'm excited about creating commissioned perfumes for unique projects as my collaboration for ScentTrunk with 'Starlight Sesame'. My goal is to continue blending olfactory art with traditional art forms, making fragrance an integral part of the artistic experience.

QUIZ 🎲

Fact Sheet: Cypriol (Nagarmotha) 🌿

What is Cypriol?

Cypriol, also known as Nagarmotha, is derived from the roots of the Cyperus scariosus plant, which belongs to the Cyperaceae family. This essential oil is renowned for its warm, woody, and earthy aroma, often compared to vetiver and oud. Cypriol is extensively used in perfumery, aromatherapy, and traditional medicine.

Origin 📍

Cypriol is native to India, where it is primarily found in the Madhya Pradesh region. It is also cultivated in other regions such as Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Indonesia. These areas provide the ideal climate and soil conditions necessary for the growth of Cyperus scariosus, ensuring a consistent supply of high-quality essential oil.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Indonesia.

• Annual Production: While specific figures vary, significant production occurs in India, particularly in Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh.

• Cultivation Cycle: The plant is typically harvested from April to June. The roots are collected, dried, and then processed to produce the oil.

• Economic Value: Cypriol essential oil is a valuable commodity in the global market, with prices ranging from $50 to $150 per kilogram, depending on the quality and origin. It plays a significant role in the local economies where it is produced, particularly in rural and tribal communities.

Use 🛢️

Cypriol essential oil is a cornerstone in the fragrance industry due to its complex and enduring scent. It serves as a base note in many ambery and woody perfumes, providing depth and richness. The oil blends well with: Bergamot, Cedar Wood (Atlantic and Himalayan), Jasmine (grand and sambac), Patchouli, Sandalwood, Ylang Ylang, Myrrh, Clary Sage, Geranium.

Cypriol Goldstandard Fragrances 🥇

• Most popular: Herod by Perfums de Marly (2012)

• Cypriol presence: Promise by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle (2017)

• Indie Perfumer’s Choice: Sundowner by Andy Tauer (2021)