Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋 

Did you know? NASA has captured the unique smell of outer space and bottled it as a fragrance! Imagine the scent of burnt steak, raspberries, and gunpowder. Want to experience it for yourself? Check out Eau de Space to learn more and bring the cosmos to your senses! 👨‍🚀 🌍️ 🛰️

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Story: From Law Books to Perfume Bottles 📚️ 

2. QUIZ: How well do you know vetiver?

3. Raw Materials: All you need to know about vetiver 🌿 

From Law Books to Perfume Bottles 📚️ 

Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with Giovanni Sammarco, an Italian-born jurist-turned-perfumer, who has been making waves in the niche perfume industry. Giovanni's journey from law to fragrance creation is nothing short of extraordinary, and his passion for perfumery is evident in every word he speaks.

Giovanni, it's fascinating to learn about your transition from law to perfumery. What sparked this dramatic career change?

It’s indeed an unusual path! During my last year at university, as I was working on my doctoral thesis in civil law, I stumbled upon the world of fragrances quite by accident. It captivated me instantly. I realised that creating perfumes could be a true alternative to a legal career, which I never felt passionate about. It was a pivotal moment for me.

Vitrum by Giovanni Sammarco

Inspiration: Inspired by a special request from a journalist named Federica, who is passionate about vetiver. Giovanni Sammarco created Vitrum using an exceptional vetiver oil, blended with rose to add a touch of softness. The addition of black pepper lends strength and depth to the composition, resulting in a uniquely smoky yet gentle fragrance.

Scent Type: Smoky, Earthy, Spicy, Woody

Notes:
- Top: Bergamot, Rose 🌹
- Heart: Pepper, Frankincense 🌶️
- Base: Vetiver 🌿

What Others Say: "Vitrum is for those who embrace the intense and raw aroma of nature. It's a deep, smoky scent that evokes the essence of a wild, untamed landscape, with a unique blend of peppery and woody undertones. Perfect for those who love robust, earthy fragrances with a hint of spice and green freshness."

View and buy here

Since then, you’ve created several acclaimed perfumes. Can you describe your process for developing a new scent? When do you know a perfume is "finished"?

The development of a perfume is a two-phase process. Initially, I experiment with various raw materials until I feel I’ve captured the right scent. This is often the most intuitive and challenging part. Once I have that, the longer production process begins, involving analyses, allergen tests, and eventually, the filtration and bottling. It often takes several months. A scent feels complete to me once I’ve found the perfect name, which can be quite challenging.

Your perfumes are inspired by diverse sources. Where do you draw your inspiration from?

Inspiration can come from anywhere - sometimes it’s a specific raw material, sometimes it’s a person or an experience in a different country. I also have a deep love for books and ancient languages, which subtly influence my creations. My literary passions often provide an unconscious backdrop to my work.

How do you differentiate your fragrances from the mainstream?

My focus is on quality and uniqueness rather than mass production. I want to create something special that resonates deeply with those who appreciate it. Each perfume is crafted with attention to detail, from the selection of raw materials to the final product. This artisanal approach is my way of ensuring that my perfumes stand out in a crowded market.

Bond-T by Giovanni Sammarco

Inspiration: Inspired by a tour through a renowned Italian maître chocolatier's factory in Pisa, capturing the rich and evocative scent of cocoa and patchouli.

Scent Type: Earthy, Animalic, Gourmand

Notes:
- Top: Cocoa Absolute 🍫
- Heart: Osmanthus Absolute 🌸
- Base: Patchouli 🌿

What Others Say:
"Bond-T is for those who appreciate the raw, unrefined aroma of natural cocoa. It's a rich, earthy scent that evokes the essence of a chocolate factory, with a unique twist of animalic and leathery undertones. Perfect for those who love complex, dark fragrances with a hint of gourmand sweetness. 🍬"

View and buy here

Your love for Greek tragedies and ancient languages is intriguing. How do they influence your perfumery?

While I don't consciously think about Greek tragedies while creating a perfume, my love of ancient literature does influence my work. It’s about aesthetics and storytelling. Perfumes, like literature, aim to evoke emotions and tell a story. They may be 'useless' in a practical sense, but they satisfy our need for beauty and aesthetic pleasure.

What are your plans for the future?

I aim to continue exploring new olfactory territories and perhaps expand my brand further. At the moment, an eighth scent is almost ready. As said before, ‘only’ the perfect name is missing. I’m also in the process of becoming a Swiss citizen, which feels like the right next step for me. Switzerland has become a significant part of my identity, and I look forward to what the future holds here.

Giovanni, thank you for sharing your journey and insights with us. Your story is truly inspiring, and your dedication to the art of perfumery is evident in your beautiful creations.

Thank you, Sebastian. It was a pleasure talking to you.

QUIZ 🎲 

All you need to know about Vetiver 🌿

What is Vetiver?

Vetiver, scientifically known as Chrysopogon zizanioides, is a resilient perennial bunchgrass. Renowned for its warm, woody fragrance with hints of grapefruit, vetiver essential oil is a cornerstone in the perfume industry. Its robust aroma, coupled with its soil conservation properties, make vetiver a valuable and versatile plant.

Origin 📍

Originally from southern India, vetiver thrives in tropical and subtropical climates. Today, it is predominantly cultivated in Haiti, particularly in the Les Cayes region, which produces the bulk of the world's vetiver essential oil. Significant cultivation also occurs in Indonesia, Brazil, Réunion, China, and Madagascar.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: Haiti (Les Cayes region), Indonesia (Java), Brazil, China, Madagascar, Réunion.

• Annual Production: Around 100 tonnes of vetiver essential oil are produced worldwide, with Haiti contributing the majority with approximately 80%.

• Cultivation Cycle: The average period between planting and first harvest is about 12 months.

• Economic Value: Vetiver is Haiti’s largest export product, ahead of coffee, cocoa, and mangoes, with a kilogram of essential oil costing around $350 in 2019.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Vetiver is a low-maintenance crop that grows in various soil types, particularly sandy and calcareous soils. It is usually planted during the rainy season, and the leaves are stripped away at harvest time. The roots, which can reach over a meter underground, are then collected, and the underground stem is replanted to ensure continuous growth.

Use 🛢️

Vetiver oil’s rich, complex scent profile makes it a favorite among perfumers. It serves as the base for many modern fragrances, providing longevity and depth. Vetiver is also known for its therapeutic properties, being used in Ayurvedic medicine and various traditional remedies.

Vetiver from around the World 🛩️ 

• South Indian Vetiver 🇮🇳 (⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $150 - $250 per kg

  • Scent: Strong, earthy, woody, smoky with a hint of sweetness

• North Indian Vetiver 🇮🇳 (⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $100 - $200 per kg

  • Scent: Light, grassy, herbaceous, subtle earthy tones

• Haitian Vetiver 🇭🇹 (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $300 - $500 per kg

  • Scent: Deep, green, slightly sweet, smoky, and woody​

• Javanese Vetiver 🇮🇩 (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $200 - $400 per kg

  • Scent: Earthy, woody, slightly peppery, sweet, fresh tones

• Madagascan Vetiver 🇲🇬 (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $250 - $450 per kg

  • Scent: Rich, earthy, smoky, refined woody, slight sweetness

• Brazilian Vetiver 🇧🇷 (⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $200 - $350 per kg

  • Scent: Eoody, earthy, balsamic, root-like, slightly sweet

• Réunion Island Vetiver (Bourbon Vetiver) 🇫🇷 (⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️)

  • Price: $400 - $600 per kg

  • Scent: Highest quality, sweet, earthy, woody, refined, luxurious aroma​

Vetiver: Haiti's Gold 🌍

Vetiver is cultivated on 6,000 to 8,000 hectares in Haiti's Les Cayes region, where it is a labor-intensive crop providing jobs for thousands. The essential oil is extracted through a 10-hour steam distillation process. Vetiver is a critical economic resource for Haiti, supporting 30,000 to 40,000 people. Its price fluctuates due to geopolitical factors and natural disasters, impacting production and supply. Additionally, vetiver helps prevent soil erosion and supports sustainable development projects.