Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know: Mark Buxton's perfumery career began after showcasing his scent skills on the German quiz show Wetten, dass..? in 1984—an appearance that landed him an offer from Haarmann & Reimer.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Co-Creation, Animalic Scents, and Blind-Buy Boom 🐎💥 

2. Strictly Independent: Rosendo Mateu 🇪🇸 

3. QUIZ: Which brand shall I visit at Esxence 2025?

4. Scent MythBusters: Master Perfumers must be officially certified 🗞️ 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #SCENTCO-CREATION: IFF's AI-powered ScentChat™ app transforms fragrance creation by integrating real-time consumer feedback via WhatsApp and Messenger. Using semantic AI and NLP, it streamlines scent formulation, making co-creation faster, more precise, and immersive. More than a research tool, it builds a direct bridge between consumers and perfumers, shaping scents that truly resonate

• #ANIMALICREBELLION: As gourmand dominance continues, a wave of indie perfumers is reviving animalic fragrances—unapologetically raw, sensual, and rebellious. Once tamed by IFRA restrictions and shifting tastes, brands like Papillon, BORNTOSTANDOUT, and Eris Parfums are championing these bold compositions. From synthetic musks to hyraceum, these scents tap into fragrance’s primal roots, embracing funk over freshness. While polarising to many, niche enthusiasts find them intoxicating.

• #BLINDBUYBOOM: In the era of digital-first fragrance shopping, consumers are increasingly blind-buying scents—dropping hundreds on perfumes without ever smelling them. Social media, striking bottle design, and evocative storytelling now shape purchasing decisions as much as the juice itself. With brands leveraging hype-driven launches and influencer reviews, the question remains: can scent be effectively sold through visual and emotional cues alone?

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 

Rosendo Mateu left a lasting mark on the indie fragrance scene with his fresh and bold approach. Known for infusing his scents with Mediterranean energy, he reinterpreted classic elements—similar to Acqua di Parma’s blend of Italian elegance and refined citrus—with a distinctly Spanish twist. His work merged crisp clarity with the warmth and passion of the Spanish sun.

Sadly, Rosendo Mateu passed away in 2022. Yet his legacy lives on through his brand, which continues to honour his vision and creative spirit.

Rosendo Mateu 🇪🇸 

• For Fans Of: If you enjoy Acqua di Parma’s mix of classic style and modern design, you'll appreciate Rosendo Mateu's Mediterranean approach. His fragrances reflect a genuine sense of regional character and tell real stories of Spanish life.

• Founded: Launched by Rosendo Mateu in Barcelona, Spain, the brand was built on the rich culture and creative energy of the Mediterranean.

• Number of Scents: The collection now includes 17 distinct fragrances, each reflecting a unique aspect of Spanish life.

QUIZ 🎲 

I’ll be attending Esxence 2025 on February 19th and 20th, and I’d love to hear your thoughts—which brand should I visit and feature? Let me know your pick from the list here: Esxence Brand List.

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Unlike titles such as Master Sommelier or Meilleur Ouvrier de France, “Master Perfumer” is not an official, regulated designation. It’s an informal honorific earned through years of experience, artistic innovation, and industry reputation—not via a standardised exam or certification program.

Unpacking the Myth 🕵️‍♀️

The Misconception

Many assume that there’s a clear, structured path or a certification process that one can follow to be “officially” crowned a Master Perfumer. The notion implies a rigid curriculum and an exam that seals your fate.

The Reality Check 🛑

In truth, the title "Master Perfumer" is an industry accolade, not a legally or formally conferred designation.

• No Governing Body: There is no central authority or exam that awards the title.

• Reputation Over Regulation: It’s a term of respect, bestowed over decades by peers, mentors, and the creative impact one has on the fragrance world.

• Subjective and Evolving: What qualifies as “mastery” can vary greatly among different fragrance houses and experts.

Comparisons That Clarify the Picture

• Master Sommelier vs. Master Perfumer:

  • Master Sommelier: A title earned through a standardised, globally recognised certification process—rigorous exams and defined criteria.

  • Master Perfumer: A term that emerges from an individual’s long career, innovative creations, and the collective recognition of industry insiders.

• Meilleur Ouvrier de France vs. Master Perfumer:

  • Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF): A formal award with specific competitions and assessments overseen by official bodies.

  • Master Perfumer: An informal accolade that doesn’t require a competitive examination; it’s about the art, the legacy, and the influence a perfumer leaves behind.

Why This Distinction Matters

Aspiring perfumers might feel misled by the glamorous sound of “Master Perfumer” as if it were a goal obtainable through a single course or exam. The truth is that mastery in perfumery is a lifelong journey of continuous learning, creative risk-taking, and hands-on experience.

The Real Path to Mastery

• Education & Training:
  Enroll in esteemed perfumery schools (e.g., ISIPCA, Givaudan Perfumery School, Grasse Institute of Perfumery) to build a strong foundation in both the science and art of fragrance creation.

• On-the-Job Experience:
  Begin as a Junior Perfumer in established fragrance houses. Learn the craft through mentorship, collaboration, and real-world challenges.

• Innovation & Legacy:
  Cultivate a unique artistic voice and continually push creative boundaries. Over time, your contributions to the industry will speak for themselves and earn you the informal title among peers.