Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? When a fireplace isn’t within reach this holiday season, you can still smell like the lovely campfires and bonfires next door with Smoke Gets in Your Eyes.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Perfume Ban, Hotel Smells and Scent Education

2. Strictly Independent: Maya Njie

3. Scent MythBusters: Fragrance Notes and Olfactory Families

4. QUIZ: Celebrity Tom Ford

5. Flower Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Heliotrope

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #PERFUMEBAN: The EU’s push to classify natural ingredients like essential oils as "intentional chemical mixtures" threatens the future of perfumery. IFRA, with advocates such as Perrichet, has been pivotal in defending iconic materials like rose, bergamot, and thyme. Through efforts like showcasing the Bulgarian rose harvest, they’ve helped protect essential oils for now, but challenges remain. Misconceptions equating “hazard” with “risk” could still lead to bans on key ingredients like carvone. Follow Aurélie Perrichet on LinkedIn and Pia Long on Instagram to stay informed and help safeguard the palette of perfumery.

• #HOTELSMELL: Luxury hotels are embracing bespoke scents as part of their identity, but this isn’t a new trend. In Arabic culture, signature fragrances have long been a hallmark of hospitality, with distinct scents welcoming guests to homes and spaces. According to the Financial Times, perfumers like Azzi Glasser create unique aromas for hotels such as Broadwick Soho, while places like Hôtel du Couvent craft fragrances tailored to specific areas. Beyond ambiance, these scents are sold as candles or sprays, highlighting how scented marketing is slowly but surely becoming a mainstream tool for creating lasting impressions.

• #SCENTUCATION: Tony Moore is revolutionising the fragrance and flavour industries with two exciting ventures: FlavScents.com, a free collaborative database inspired by The Good Scents Company, and What’s That Smell?, a YouTube series exploring the chemistry behind everyday aromas. From analysing lime flowers to decoding the scents of July 4th fireworks, Moore combines artistry and science to engage a curious audience.

Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟 

Step into the nostalgic and multi-sensory world of Maya Njie, a self-taught perfumer whose creations are inspired by her Swedish and Gambian heritage. From her East London studio, Maya blends visual storytelling and olfaction to craft fragrances that transport you to places and memories—both real and imagined.

Maya Njie 🇬🇧 

• For Fans Of: Ideal for those who appreciate the nostalgic and personal storytelling found in brands like Maison Margiela's Replica series, where each fragrance evokes specific memories and places.

• Founded: Established by self-taught perfumer Maya Njie in 2016.

• Headquarters: London, United Kingdom.

• Number of Scents: 9 (of which ‘Liquid Amber’ is limited and ‘Treemoss’ in collaboration with ScentTrunk)

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Fragrance notes are versatile and often transcend traditional olfactory families. While some, ingredients like vanilla and bergamot, can feature in multiple categories, others, like rose, are predominantly associated with a single family. Understanding this complexity enriches our appreciation of perfumery.

Unpacking the Myth 🕵️‍♀️

The Misconception
There's a common belief that each fragrance note fits neatly into a single olfactory family—be it floral, woody, citrus, or gourmand.

The Reality Check 🛑
In truth, many fragrance notes are multifaceted and can belong to several olfactory families, depending on how they're used in a composition.

Versatile Notes That Cross Boundaries 🌈

Vanilla 🍦

• Gourmand: Often used for its sweet, dessert-like aroma in edible-inspired scents.

• Woody: When paired with woods, vanilla can adopt a smoky or resinous quality.

• Oriental: Combines with spices and amber to add warmth and depth.

Bergamot 🍋

• Citrus: A staple in fresh, zesty fragrances.

• Aromatic: Blends with herbs to enhance aromatic compositions.

• Chypre: Key in chypre fragrances, offering a bright opening note.

Lavender 💜

• Aromatic: Central to fougère fragrances with its herbal tones.

• Floral: Can lend a soft floral touch in lighter scents.

• Gourmand: Mixed with sweet notes like vanilla for a cozy effect.

Notes That Stay True to Their Family ⚓️

Rose 🌹

• Floral Dominance: Rose is quintessentially floral and is central to fragrances like Lancôme's Absolue Les Parfums Collection, where it stands as the primary note.

• Consistent Character: While rose can vary from fresh to deep and velvety, it remains within the floral family and doesn't typically feature prominently in other categories like gourmand or woody scents.

Sandalwood 🌳

• Woody Essence: Sandalwood is a staple of the woody family, offering a creamy, smooth aroma.

• Limited Versatility: It retains its woody character across fragrances, as seen in Serge Lutens Santal de Mysore, without shifting into floral or citrus territories.

QUIZ - Celebrity Edition 🎲💍 

All You Need to Know About Heliotrope 🟣 

Did You Know? 🌟

Did you know that the heliotrope flower gets its name from the Greek words helios (sun) and tropos (turn), because it was once believed that its blossoms turned to follow the sun throughout the day?

Heliotrope: The Nostalgic Dreamer of Fragrance 🎩

Imagine Heliotrope as the nostalgic dreamer of the perfume world—elegant, romantic, and a touch mysterious. With its sweet, powdery aroma reminiscent of vanilla, almond, and a hint of cherry pie, Heliotrope adds a comforting and dreamy quality to fragrances.

Fragrance DNA 🧬

• Personality: Romantic, Nostalgic, Comforting

• Aroma Strength: 7/10

• Best Paired With: Florals (jasmine, rose, iris), Gourmand notes (vanilla, tonka bean), and musky undertones

• Secret Weapon: Imparts a cozy, enveloping warmth that enhances depth and adds a vintage allure to any scent.

Heliotrope's Journey 🗺️

1. Origin: Native to Peru, introduced to Europe in the 18th century

2. Cultivation: Thrives in sunny climates with well-drained soil; prised for its clusters of violet-blue flowers

3. Aroma Profile: Rich in piperonal (heliotropin), giving it a sweet, almond-vanilla scent

4. Perfumery: Used to evoke warmth and nostalgia, adding depth to floral and ambery fragrances

5. Legacy: A classic note that has been cherished in perfumery for over a century

A Fascinating Fact 📖

Heliotropin has been studied for its psychological effects. Its comforting, sweet aroma is believed to evoke feelings of happiness and relaxation, making it a popular choice in perfumery for creating scents that feel nostalgic and emotionally grounding. This quality has even led to its inclusion in some aromatherapy practices focused on stress relief and mood enhancement.

Most Notable Heliotrope Fragrances 💫

• Cuir Beluga by Guerlain (2005): A typical Guerlain blend that highlights heliotrope alongside notes of vanilla and suede, creating a soft and creamy scent.

• L'Eau d'Hiver by Frédéric Malle (2003): This delicate fragrance combines heliotrope with iris and honey, offering a warm and comforting aroma that's both fresh and tender.

• Vert d'Encens by Tom Ford (2016): An aromatic composition featuring heliotrope, incense, and pine resin, providing a unique and sophisticated scent that evokes a coastal forest.

• Comète by Chanel (2024): A modern and luminous fragrance blending heliotrope with jasmine and musk, capturing an elegant and ethereal essence.