Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? The Art and Olfaction Awards, established in 2013, celebrate excellence in independent, artisan, and experimental perfumery. Often called the "Oscars of Perfumery," this annual event in Los Angeles highlights the finest in olfactory art through a blind-judged competition. Winners receive the coveted golden pear statuette, recognising their exceptional contributions to the field.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Entertainment fragrances and release champions 🎬️ 

2. Story: 👃 Oscar Winner 2024 🇻🇳 

3. QUIZ: Art and Olfaction winners 🍾 

4. Aroma Chemical: IsoButyl Quinoline 💧 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• The world’s most-watched music festival, Tomorrowland has introduced "Elixir of Life," an entertainment fragrance that captures the essence of the festival with a smell of nature and elegance, transporting wearers to a world away from reality. Available exclusively at the festival, this perfume complements the atmosphere of Tomorrowland, known for its immersive experiences and vibrant themes​ 🪩 👯‍♂️ .

• Cirque du Soleil has launched its first entertainment scent, which reflects the magical and whimsical essence of its performances, allowing fans to carry a piece of the show with them. These fragrances are designed to evoke the unique sensory experiences of Cirque du Soleil's breathtaking performances​ 🛝 🎡.

• Marcus Nymand Jacobsen is the man when it comes to niche trends and numbers. In a recent post on LinkedIn, he outlined that on average three scents are launched per niche brand per year. This sums up to an average of 10.4 fragrances per brand since 2021. The clear winner in terms of launches is Xerjoff with a whopping 41 fragrances since 2021, followed by DS&Durga with 32 and Tiziana Terenzi with 30. According to Marcus:"Newer brands tend to launch on average of 25.5% more perfumes per year compared to older brands, especially in their early years, helping them build a diverse range and fill store shelves." 👃 🌟 

Some weeks ago, we had the honor of interviewing Sy Truong, a prominent voice among perfumers in the great country of Vietnam. Acclaimed for his pioneering work, Sy shared his incredible journey from the challenging market environment of Vietnam to becoming an internationally recognised perfumer. He made history by winning the "Oscar of Perfumery" with his debut fragrance, an unprecedented achievement in the industry.

Hey Sy! Can you tell us about your beginnings and what inspired you to enter the world of perfumery?

"Hello! I was born and raised in Vietnam, in a middle-class family without much exposure to perfumes. My journey into perfumery began at 15 when my father gifted me Alien by Thierry Mugler. The magical experience of smelling it for the first time sparked my passion. However, it was later, after working as a fashion designer, that I accidentally stumbled upon 'Diary of a Nose' in a secondhand bookstore. This book opened a new world for me, and I decided to pursue perfumery full-time."

That's a fascinating story! What challenges did you face starting out in Vietnam, and how did you overcome them?

"It was tough initially. There were no books or resources on perfumery in Vietnam, and raw materials were hard to come by. We only had essential oils, which weren't up to the standard needed for perfumes. I had to order materials from abroad, which was costly. Despite these challenges, my passion kept me going. Winning the Art and Olfaction Award with 'Molotov Cocktail' was a turning point, bringing recognition to Vietnamese perfumery."

How did you manage to learn about perfumery without local resources?

"There were no perfumery schools or courses available, so I relied heavily on books and online resources. I remember spending countless nights reading and experimenting with different combinations of scents. This dedication paid off when I discovered the power of unique, high-quality materials. I began importing raw materials from countries like France and the USA, which was an expensive and complex process, but it allowed me to work with the best ingredients and learn their properties firsthand."

Can you tell us more about 'Molotov Cocktail' and its significance?

"Sebastian, let me be clear here, “Molotov Cocktail” is NOT a fragrance; it's a statement against war.” Inspired by the tragic events in Ukraine and the loss of a friend, I wanted to capture the horror and devastation of war in a bottle. The scent includes notes of blood, metal, and burnt rubber, aiming to evoke a visceral response and remind people of the suffering caused by conflict."

What motivated you to create such a bold and unconventional fragrance?

"I didn't just want to make a perfume that smells nice; I wanted to create something that makes people think and feel deeply. Molotov Cocktail was my way of expressing my anger and sadness about the war. It's designed to make you uncomfortable, to evoke the harsh realities of conflict. This bold approach resonated with the judges at the Art and Olfaction Awards, earning me recognition I never expected to achieve."

What is your vision for Sylhouette, your brand?

"Sylhouette is my way of expressing my inner world through scent. It's not about commercial success but about sharing my artistic vision. The brand combines elements of decadence, drama, and poetry, creating complex, vintage-inspired fragrances with a modern twist."

How do you incorporate these elements into your fragrances?

"Each fragrance is a piece of my soul. I draw inspiration from various art forms, including literature, music, and visual arts. My goal is to create scents that are not only pleasant to wear but also provoke thought and evoke emotions. Each creation under Sylhouette is crafted to tell a story, blending artistic, dramatic, and poetic elements to create a multi-layered experience."

What’s next for Sylhouette?

"We are releasing a new collection in August called 'Le Vanité,' which explores the themes of time and death. This collection embodies the DNA of Sylhouette, combining artistic, dramatic, and poetic elements. I'm excited to share it with the world."

I noticed you have several tattoos. Can you tell us about them and their significance?

"Yes, I have several tattoos that represent my journey and passions. Many of them are chemical structures of the scents I work with. One of my favorite tattoos is of IsoButyl Quinoline, my favorite ingredient of all time. This aroma chemical is crucial in creating leathery, tobacco-like scents, and it symbolises my dedication to exploring complex and bold fragrance profiles. Having it tattooed on me is a daily reminder of my commitment to the art of perfumery."

Thank you for sharing your journey and insights with us, Sy. Your dedication and creativity are truly inspiring!

"Thank you for having me. It's been a pleasure sharing my story and my passion for perfumery with you and your readers."

QUIZ 🎲

Fact Sheet: IsoButyl Quinoline 💧

What is IsoButyl Quinoline?

LINK to ScenTree

IsoButyl Quinoline is a synthetic aromatic compound known for its distinct leathery, smoky, and slightly green scent. First synthesised in the early 20th century, this molecule has become an essential ingredient in the fragrance industry. Its ability to impart a rich, intense, and long-lasting base note makes it highly valued in perfumery.

Key Facts 📔

IsoButyl Quinoline is produced by several major aroma chemical manufacturers. These companies include Givaudan, International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), Symrise, and other notable producers such as Mane, BASF, Synarome, and Van Aroma.

• Givaudan: Markets IsoButyl Quinoline under the name "Isobutyl Quinoline-2," highlighting its vibrant leathery character that is prominently used in masculine colognes.

• IFF: Also refers to it as IsoButyl Quinoline, emphasising its application in creating leather and chypre accords.

• Symrise: Sells it as "IsoButyl Quinoline 54," noted for its powerful, earthy, mossy, and leathery odour.

Use 🛢️

IsoButyl Quinoline is highly regarded in the fragrance industry for its unique olfactory qualities. It provides a powerful, earthy, and leathery scent that blends well with other notes, making it a staple in various fragrance compositions. It is particularly prominent in chypre, leather, and woody perfumes. This compound is often used in masculine colognes, where its intense leathery character adds depth and complexity to the scent.

Olfactive Qualities 👃

• Leathery and Smoky: IsoButyl Quinoline has a dominant leathery note with smoky undertones.

• Earthy and Green: It also exhibits earthy and green facets, reminiscent of vetiver and oakmoss, which contribute to its versatility in perfumery.

• Fixative Properties: Its strong and long-lasting nature makes it an excellent fixative, helping to enhance and prolong the presence of other fragrance components.

Blends Well With 🤝 

• Woods: Cedarwood, sandalwood, and other woody notes.

• Animalic Notes: Castoreum and civet-like notes for more intense compositions.

• Herbal and Green Notes: Lavender, sage, and other green notes to balance its intensity.

• Resins and Balsams: Labdanum, myrrh, and benzoin for rich and complex bases.