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- Niche Was Cool Before You Were Born 😎
Niche Was Cool Before You Were Born 😎
Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,
Two weeks ago, the majority of you shared a clear message—you want to play an active role in shaping a commercial fragrance. Last week, we asked which parts of the process excite you most. The results? Over 50% want to evaluate different scent directions, while about 20% are eager to suggest notes or contribute to the creative vision 😍.
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We can’t reveal everything just yet, but here’s what we can say: you’ll have a hand in all of it.
To get ready for what’s next, here’s your next question...
How would you like to be involved in shaping this fragrance? |
🗓️ Contents of this Issue
Note Worthy: Inclusive perfumes, influencer and feminist fragrances 🧑🦽♀️
Strictly Independent: .oddity 🇭🇰
Scent MythBusters: The Niche Fragrance Hype Is a Phenomenon of Recent Years 📆
QUIZ: Annick Goutal’s favourite unusual note 👃
Material Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Dahlia 🌸 💎
Note-Worthy 🔎🌸
#INCLUSIVEPERFUME: L'Oréal’s My Aura™ transforms fragrance application with inclusivity at its core. Recognised at CES 2025 for Accessibility & AgeTech, this assistive device allows individuals with upper limb or visual disabilities to enjoy their favourite perfumes effortlessly. With a touchless sensor that releases a gentle spray, My Aura™ accommodates any fragrance brand, making beauty rituals more accessible than ever. A true innovation in inclusive design, it bridges technology and self-expression seamlessly.
#INFLUENCERSCENTS: Influencers are carving a niche in the fragrance industry, following celebrity successes like Ariana Grande's €1bn perfume empire. Danielle Bernstein’s WeWoreWhat 001 and Sebastian Jara’s Fifty Four highlight varying approaches, from licensing deals to niche collaborations. As fragrance sales continue rising, influencers aim to convert loyal followings into long-term customers, facing challenges such as market saturation and overcoming "cash grab" perceptions.
#FEMINISTFRAGRANCE: Viola Levy highlights the need for a feminist lens in fragrance, urging a shift from male-gaze marketing to scent as a tool for empowerment and self-care. Historical campaigns like YSL Opium and Marc Jacobs Lola perpetuated objectifying tropes, but voices like Pia Long and Veronique Gabai emphasize the rising focus on fragrance’s personal impact over external allure. This evolving narrative is reshaping how scent connects with identity and wellbeing.
Strictly Independent 🎨 🌟
Welcome to .Oddity Fragrance—a modern niche perfume house driven by a bold design collective. Here, art and scent come together to spark creativity and self-expression. Each fragrance draws inspiration from the unexpected—a chance encounter, a forgotten idea, or a striking image—transforming into playful, eccentric, and deeply expressive creations that speak to both heart and mind. Plus, they might have the best caps in the game 😍 —handmade epoxy resin pieces, each uniquely crafted to reflect the scent’s vision.
.oddity 🇭🇰
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For Fans Of: Perfect for those who appreciate DS & Durga’s ability to turn unexpected inspirations into bold, imaginative fragrances that celebrate the offbeat and the original.
Founded: Founded by a design collective comprising Alice Mourou, Kirill Runkov, and Nikita Shchukin
Headquarters: Hong Kong
Number of Scents: 3
![]() | Dead AirA macabre fantasy of shadows and drama, Dead Air unfolds from a crisp, salty breeze into the dark depths of a watery abyss. Blurred black tones, lush flora, and earthy wood evoke a cinematic journey of decadent mystery. Perfumer: Mark Buxton
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![]() | Naked DanceA tribute to intimate liberty, Naked Dance is an olfactory ode to life at home. Warm, comforting, and blissfully free, it conjures the feeling of sun-warmed skin, cozy spaces, and the rhythm of our personal sanctuaries. Perfumer: Mark Buxton
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![]() | ResonantResonant is a perfectionist’s dream—a sharp, rhythmic fragrance that vibrates with energy and contrasts. Crisp citrus, metallic notes, and dry woods come together in a symphony of precision and boldness. Perfumer: David Chieze
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Scent MythBusters 🎭️
The Niche Fragrance Hype Is a Phenomenon of Recent Years
TL;DR
It’s tempting to think niche perfumery exploded only with social media and indie brands in the 2010s. But the concept of limited-distribution, artisan-driven fragrance houses has been evolving since the 1970s. Early visionaries like L’Artisan Parfumeur, Annick Goutal, and Serge Lutens pioneered what we now call “niche”—proving this movement has deeper roots than many realise.
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Niche in the past, niche today
Unpacking the Myth 🕵️♀️
The Misconception
“Niche perfume is just a recent internet-fuelled trend.”
The Reality Check 🛑
Brands large and small have been offering unconventional, highly artistic fragrances for decades. While social media has certainly boosted niche fragrance awareness, these heritage houses laid the groundwork long before ‘niche’ became a buzzword.
House of the Decades 🌍️ 📆
1970s: L’Artisan Parfumeur
Small-batch experimentation—pioneered artisan scents using rare ingredients and playful themes, establishing a model for creative freedom.1980s: Annick Goutal and Amouage
Personal storytelling meets luxury heritage—Annick Goutal brought emotional narratives to perfume, while Amouage (from Oman) introduced Middle Eastern opulence to a global stage.1990s: Serge Lutens and Parfums de Nicolaï
Artistic vision on the rise—Serge Lutens fused avant-garde aesthetics with bold compositions; Parfums de Nicolaï showcased perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï’s innovative approach within a family steeped in Guerlain tradition.2000s: Frédéric Malle and Andy Tauer
Collaborative independence—Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums gave star perfumers a platform to create freely; Swiss indie perfumer Andy Tauer built a cult following with striking, handcrafted blends.2010s: Escentric Molecules
Molecule-driven minimalism—centering entire fragrances on single aroma-chemicals like Iso E Super, captivating wearers with futuristic simplicity.
Why “Niche” Stuck Around ⚖️
Artistic Expression
Freed from mass-market constraints, perfumers can experiment with daring formulas and narratives.Selective Distribution
Limited availability cultivates an air of exclusivity, fueling connoisseur excitement.Cult Followings
Passionate fragrance communities, both online and off, seek unique olfactory signatures—keeping niche in demand.
QUIZ 🎲
Which unusual note did Annick Goutal often include in her early fragrances? |
All You Need to Know About Dahlia (Rare Edition 💎)
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Dahlia flowers
Did You Know? 🌟
Unlike roses or jasmine, real dahlia essential oil is practically non-existent in mainstream perfumery—true dahlias rarely yield a fragrant extract. Instead, perfumers replicate this beloved bloom through carefully crafted “dahlia accords,” blending floral, powdery, and subtly spicy notes to evoke the flower’s lush elegance. Despite its elusive natural essence, dahlia remains a captivating inspiration for many perfumers seeking a refined twist on classic florals.
Dahlia: The Exquisite Showstopper in Fragrance 👑
Think of dahlia as the glamorous headliner on a fragrance stage—richly petaled, subtly sweet, and wrapped in a soft, powdery aura. A well-constructed dahlia accord can deliver a sophisticated, warm floralcy that feels both romantic and modern. In perfumery, dahlia’s “imagined” aroma sits somewhere between peony’s fresh softness and carnation’s gentle spice—a unique profile that can elevate both fruity-floral blends and musky, evening-ready compositions.
Fragrance DNA 🧬
Personality: Elegant, Softly Spicy, Romantic
Best Paired With: Rose, Peony, White Musks, Soft Woods, and Delicate Ambers
Secret Weapon: Its ability to add a velvety, almost pastel-like floral layer—perfect for rounding out sharp edges or adding understated sophistication to a perfume’s heart notes.
Dahlia’s Journey 🗺️
Origin – Native to Mexico, dahlias were once sacred to the Aztecs. Their limited aromatic yield led perfumers to craft dahlia-inspired accords in labs.
Cultivation – Widely grown for ornamentation, dahlias’ faintly sweet-to-spicy scent is too subtle for direct extraction, hence the reliance on synthetic or nature-identical recreations.
Olfactory Profile – Dahlia accords blend soft florals (rose, peony) with peppery, spicy nuances and powdery hints (violet, iris) to evoke plush petals and subtle warmth.
Perfumery – These accords bring refined romance to both niche and mainstream perfumes, layering harmoniously with creamy woods and airy musks.
Legacy – From vintage bouquets to modern florientals, dahlia’s elusive charm intrigues fragrance lovers. Though less famous than rose or jasmine, its rarity makes it a coveted secret among
Most Notable Dahlia Fragrances 💫
Dahlia by Jesus del Pozo (2012) – Floral, Oriental, Sweet
Midnight Dahlia by Korres (2020) – Sweet, Fruity, Floral
1947 Dahlia by Eric Buterbaugh Florals (N/A) – Floral, Spicy, Rich
Quetzaly by Daniel Josier (2019) – Spicy, Woody, Resinous
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