Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Netflix has entered the fragrance world! In partnership with Lottie London, they've created two new scents inspired by Outer Banks. Paradise on Earth and Pogue Life capture the show's adventurous vibe and are launching on 22 October.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: 40k Scents, Green Chemistry, Genz Z Colognes 💸🧪 

2. Scent Picks: Five Unmissable Fragrances from Pitti Fragranze 2024 🇮🇹🤌 

3. Scent MythBusters: Higher concentration = greater sillage❓️ 

4. QUIZ: Champaca origin 🛬🌏️ 

5. Molecule Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Davana 🌼 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• In this Glossy article, bespoke perfumes are redefining luxury, fitting into the broader trend of services catering either to the budget or ultra-luxury markets, much like Equinox's €38,000 gym membership aimed at longevity. Perfumer Azzi Glasser creates custom fragrances for clients like Cindy Crawford, with prices starting from €18,000. As demand for one-of-a-kind scents grows, bespoke creations extend beyond personal perfumes to scented spaces, like yachts and private jets. These fragrances reflect a deeper olfactive sophistication, tailored to those who seek something unique and far from commercial trends.

• In this IFRA article, the Green Chemistry Compass is set to transform the fragrance industry’s approach to sustainability. The tool guides companies in evaluating and improving their environmental and health impacts by focusing on renewable resources, energy efficiency, and waste reduction. Aligned with the UN Sustainable Development Goals, it empowers fragrance manufacturers to adopt greener, safer practices. By using the principles of green chemistry, the Compass is helping the industry create more sustainable fragrances, supporting a future that's better for both people and the planet.

• In this WSJ article, teens are reviving 1990s colognes like Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male and Dior Sauvage. Social media has sparked a new trend among Gen Z boys, who are turning these classic scents into prized collectibles. Iconic fragrances like Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Giò are finding new life as younger consumers shell out for full bottles or hand-me-downs from their parents' cabinets. This nostalgic wave has boosted fragrance sales, with teens eager to own a piece of the past and elevate their scent game with timeless, masculine favorites.

Five Unmissable Fragrances from Pitti Fragranze 2024 🧐🌟 

Pitti Fragranze 2024 may be over, but the buzz surrounding its standout fragrances is still going strong. To save you some scrolling, we’ve sifted through the chatter and picked the five scents that truly made waves. Make sure to add these to your must-try list for the weeks ahead!

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

While it might seem intuitive that a higher concentration of fragrance oils would lead to stronger sillage—the trail of scent left behind by a perfume—this isn't always the case. Sillage (pronounced see-yazh) is influenced by a complex interplay of factors including the volatility of ingredients, molecular structure, perfume composition, and even environmental conditions. Therefore, a perfume's concentration doesn't guarantee greater sillage; a lower concentration fragrance can sometimes project more powerfully than its higher concentration counterpart.

The Myth of Fragrance Concentration and Sillage

The common belief is that the higher the concentration of aromatic compounds in a perfume, the stronger its sillage. This assumption stems from the classification of fragrances:

• Eau de Cologne (EdC): Approximately 2-5% aromatic compounds.

• Eau de Toilette (EdT): Around 5-15%.

• Eau de Parfum (EdP): Typically 15-20%.

• Parfum (Extrait de Parfum): Often 20-30% or more.

At first glance, it seems logical that a Parfum with a higher concentration would have a more potent sillage than an Eau de Toilette. However, this isn't always the case due to several influencing factors.

Factors Influencing Sillage Beyond Concentration

While concentration levels do play a role in a fragrance's overall strength and longevity, sillage is affected by several other factors that can override the impact of concentration alone.

Volatility of Ingredients

The volatility of fragrance ingredients significantly influences sillage. Top notes, composed of lighter, more volatile molecules like citrus and herbal scents, evaporate quickly and can project strongly upon application. Base notes, made up of heavier molecules such as woods, resins, and musks, evaporate more slowly and tend to stay closer to the skin.

Molecular Weight and Diffusivity 🪨 

Ingredients with lower molecular weights can travel farther in the air, enhancing sillage. For example, certain aldehydes and synthetic aroma chemicals are designed to be highly diffusive. Conversely, heavier molecules with higher molecular weights don't disperse as easily and contribute less to sillage.

Composition and Balance of Notes 🎶 

The way a perfume is composed—the balance of top, heart, and base notes—affects its sillage. A fragrance rich in diffusive top notes may have stronger sillage despite a lower overall concentration. Additionally, the use of certain synthetic ingredients known for their high diffusion can amplify sillage.

Use of Diffusive Materials 🔍️ 

Perfumers often employ specific aroma chemicals known for their ability to project. Compounds like Iso E Super, Hedione, and Ambroxan are renowned for their diffusivity and can significantly impact a fragrance's sillage even when used in small amounts.

Application Methods 💧 

How a perfume is applied can also affect its sillage. Spraying distributes the fragrance more widely over the skin, enhancing sillage compared to dabbing. Applying perfume on pulse points or warmer areas of the body increases evaporation rates, which can boost sillage.

Skin Chemistry 🧪 

Individual skin chemistry plays a role in how a fragrance develops and projects. Factors like skin pH, oiliness, and temperature can influence the evaporation of scent molecules. Oily skin can hold fragrances longer and may enhance sillage, while dry skin might reduce it.

Environmental Factors 🌍️ 

External conditions such as temperature, humidity, and air flow impact sillage. Heat increases molecular activity, enhancing sillage, while humidity can carry scent molecules farther. Wind or air conditioning can disperse fragrance molecules, affecting how a scent trails.

Debunking the Myth with Examples

To illustrate that higher concentration doesn't always equate to greater sillage, consider the following examples:

High Concentration, Low Sillage

↘️ Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille (Parfum Concentration): Despite its high concentration, this fragrance has moderate sillage. Its heavy base notes of tobacco and vanilla consist of larger molecules that tend to stay close to the skin, resulting in a scent that is rich but not overly projecting.

↘️ Chanel No. 5 Parfum: The extrait version of this classic fragrance is richer and more concentrated, yet it sits closer to the skin compared to the Eau de Toilette version. The EdT contains brighter aldehydes and lighter molecules that project more, creating stronger sillage despite a lower concentration.

Low Concentration, High Sillage

↗️ Giorgio Beverly Hills (Eau de Toilette): Known for its potent sillage, this fragrance combines diffusive white florals and aldehydes that project strongly even at a lower concentration. Its composition emphasises highly volatile and diffusive ingredients.

↗️ Dior Sauvage (Eau de Toilette): Despite being an EdT, Dior Sauvage is famous for its strong projection and sillage. It utilises powerful aroma chemicals like Ambroxan, which enhance its diffusivity and make it linger in the air, outperforming many higher concentration fragrances in terms of sillage.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Davana 🌼 

What is Davana?

Davana (Artemisia pallens) is an aromatic herb native to southern India, belonging to the Asteraceae family. It is widely appreciated in perfumery for its rich, multifaceted scent that varies depending on the wearer’s body chemistry. Davana oil offers a sweet, fruity, and herbaceous aroma with undertones of dried fruit, tea, or even a balsamic warmth.

Origin 📍

Davana is predominantly cultivated in the southern regions of India, especially in Tamil Nadu. In Indian culture, the herb has long been used in religious rituals, including offerings to Lord Shiva. Its flowers and leaves are considered sacred and often adorn altars, reflecting the plant's deep cultural and spiritual significance.

Key Facts 📔

• Scent Profile: Fruity, sweet, and herbaceous, with undertones of tea, wood, and balsam.

• Main Components: Davanone (primary compound), geraniol, linalool, and nerol.

• Harvest Time: The herb is typically harvested during the dry season, and the essential oil is extracted soon after to preserve its potent fragrance.

• Uses: Increasingly used in perfumery, aromatherapy, and Indian traditional medicine for its mood-enhancing, soothing, and skin-care properties.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Davana grows in tropical climates and thrives in well-drained, sandy soils. It prefers sunny locations and moderate water supply, but is highly drought-tolerant once established. The plants reach around 60 cm in height and produce small, yellow flower heads. The essential oil is primarily derived from the flowers and leaves through steam distillation. Local farmers manually harvest the plant to ensure the preservation of its delicate fragrance properties. As demand for natural ingredients in perfumery has risen, the global significance of Davana has increased.

Rising Significance in Perfumery 📈

In recent years, Davana has gained increasing importance in the global fragrance industry due to its complex and versatile scent profile. It blends well with various fragrance families, including ambra, chypre, and fougère compositions. Furthermore, davana's ability to adapt to individual skin chemistry has made it a go-to ingredient in niche and high-end fragrances.

Use in Perfumery 🛢️

Davana's sweet, herbaceous scent can be found in a wide range of fragrance types. The note is most commonly used in the top or heart of fragrances, blending well with floral notes like jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, as well as woody notes like sandalwood and vetiver. It adds depth and a mystical quality to many modern perfumes.

Most Notable Davana Fragrances 💫

• Azzurro by Roberto Ugolini (2020)

• Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017)

• Sunshine Woman by Amouage (2014)

• 1740 by Histoires de Parfums (2008)