Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? The most expensive perfume ever sold, "Shumukh," went for an incredible $1.29 million. For that price, you could bring home over 2,700 bottles of Xerjoff Alexandria II. Alternatively, you could enjoy 323 nights at a 5-star luxury resort in the Maldives. If cars are more your style, you could also drive away with 28 Tesla Model 3s.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Perfume AI, Crowdfunding, and GEN Z 💶 🧒 

2. Scent MythBusters: All-natural fragrances 💐 

3. Ask Me Anything: Perfumers’ edition 👃 

4. QUIZ: Oldest perfume house in the world 🦳

5. Molecule Spotlight: All you need to know about Hedione 🧪 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• Scentalytics is a web development, data analytics and AI agency focusing on innovation in the fragrance space. Their AI Perfume Creator tool lets you explore formulas (disclaimer: not great, yet) and search for similar perfumes according to your favorite notes. Ideal for people who like to search fragrances ‘similar to…’.

• Thomas de Monaco has announced its upcoming public crowdfunding campaign, offering investors the opportunity to join the brand at a pre-money valuation of 2.5 million CHF. Currently, Thomas de Monaco boasts a portfolio of six distinct fragrances, available in 26 countries through more than 100 points of sale. Potential investors can join this growing brand with an entry investment starting as low as 5,000 CHF.

• A new trend sees Gen Z teens embracing fragrance culture with enthusiasm, driven largely by influencers on platforms like TikTok. Unlike previous generations, today's teens openly discuss and purchase high-end perfumes, from Roja to Xerjoff, with spending on fragrances among male teens rising by 26% in 2024. This shift is attributed to social media influencers like Jeremy Fragrance, who have popularised perfume as a key aspect of self-expression.

NEW SPECIAL CONTENT 😍 

ASK ME ANYTHING 🗣️ 👃 

Each week, we receive more and more questions from you 😍. We’re thrilled to announce that many of the perfumers we've interviewed have agreed to join us in our new "Ask Me Anything" format, which debuts today. From now on, you can submit your questions here, and the best ones will be featured—along with their answers, in our next newsletter.

Sy Truong: "It’s pretty similar to how fragrance houses operate, but as an indie perfumer, I’m more invested in the entire concept behind the brand that commissions me. Unlike larger companies, we’re not really into mass-market, commercial products. The focus is on creating something unique and aligned with the brand’s identity."

Marie-Pierre: "For me, the brief is crucial—it’s the foundation of the story I want to tell through my work. It’s not about demographics or market segments; it’s about the creative direction. The choice of materials and structure comes from what we want to express, not from concerns about the cost per kilo. Honestly, I should probably think about that more, but I choose materials based on the outcome I want to achieve. In fact, you’ll often find higher-quality ingredients in indie perfumes because we’re not bound by the same cost restrictions as big houses."

Chester Gibs: "I began my journey by reconstructing existing perfumes under the guidance of my teacher, Daniel Pescio. It helped me understand how ingredients interact. These days, I create my own compositions from scratch, but I still find value in studying existing formulas—it’s a great way to keep learning."

Riyal Noor: "Every time I tried following some of the demos, they didn’t really work for me. I think creative formulation comes from knowing what you’re aiming for, often learning through the mistakes you’ve made. Once, I accidentally mixed citronella oil with gamma undecalactone, and surprisingly, it worked with a few tweaks! My advice? Don’t get distracted by too many demos. Focus on perfecting one until you’ve got it just right."

Sy Truong: "Beginners often start by studying GCMS data sheets to understand how to formulate a scent and get a feel for the dosage of each material. But once you’ve mastered the basics and have worked on many scents, the focus shifts to creating your own original compositions, your own DNA."

Marie-Pierre: "I find this question a bit leading—it seems to suggest that big houses don’t copy-paste! If anything, they’re the ones who do it more, quickly jumping on trends and churning out similar scents. Whether you’re indie or not, everyone starts by working with existing formulas to learn the craft. But as indie perfumers, we have more creative freedom—we’re not tied down by shareholders or strict cost controls, so we can truly innovate and follow our own briefs."

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

➡️ Short answer: Wrong ❌ 

🌳 Environmental: Naturals 0️⃣ : Synthetics 1️⃣ 
🧑‍🤝‍🧑 Social: Naturals 1️⃣ : Synthetics 1️⃣ 
❤️ Health: Naturals 2️⃣ : Synthetics 2️⃣ 
💯 FINAL SCORE: Draw 2️⃣ : 2️⃣

Determining the sustainability of all-natural fragrances requires examining the environmental, social, and health impacts of natural versus synthetic ingredients on a case-by-case basis.

Environmental Impact

Natural ingredients like Vetiver from Haiti are environmentally beneficial, aiding in soil erosion control and requiring minimal chemical inputs. However, energy-intensive steam distillation and global transportation add to their CO2 footprint. Indian Sandalwood, on the other hand, faces severe sustainability challenges due to overharvesting and deforestation, making synthetic alternatives like santalol more eco-friendly. Ambroxan, a synthetic ingredient, is produced with controlled processes focused on renewable energy, biodegradability, and reduced toxicity, offering a lower environmental impact. However, synthetics like Civetone, while safer, can lead consumers to seek out the original, ethically controversial natural versions derived from civet cats. This pattern has also been observed with ambergris and Ambroxan, where interest in the synthetic can drive demand for the natural counterpart.

Social Impact

Vetiver provides significant social benefits, supporting 80,000 farmers in Haiti and promoting community development through investments by companies like LMR of IFF. Synthetic ingredients like Ambroxan generally have a neutral social impact, as their production doesn’t directly affect farming communities or contribute to local economies.

Health Impact

Natural ingredients often carry higher allergenic and health risks, with materials like oakmoss and clove leaf oil being regulated by IFRA. However, natural ingredients like lavender essential oil have proven therapeutic effects that benefit the mind and body. Synthetics, such as Ambroxan and Civetone, are designed to minimise allergens and VOCs, offering safer options for consumers.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Hedione®

What is Hedione?

Hedione, a synthetic fragrance ingredient, is a pivotal molecule in the world of modern perfumery. Chemically known as methyl dihydrojasmonate, Hedione was first discovered and synthesised by the fragrance company Firmenich in the early 1960s. This molecule is celebrated for its jasmine-like, fresh, and transparent floral character, which imparts a natural, airy quality to perfumes. Unlike many other synthetic compounds, Hedione has the unique ability to enhance the diffusion and radiance of other floral notes, making it a staple in a wide array of fragrance compositions.

History 📜

Hedione's journey began in the laboratories of Firmenich, where chemists were exploring new synthetic routes to expand the palette of perfumery. It was introduced to the market in 1966 as a key ingredient in the iconic fragrance Eau Sauvage by Dior, created by the legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. This launch marked a turning point in perfumery, as Hedione brought an unprecedented level of freshness and radiance to the scent, contributing significantly to the fragrance's success.

Key Facts 📔

• Chemical Name: Methyl dihydrojasmonate.

• First Major Use: 1966 in Dior’s Eau Sauvage.

• Fragrance Profile: Fresh, airy, jasmine-like, with a slightly green undertone.

• Function in Perfumery: Used as a heart note enhancer, Hedione boosts the intensity and longevity of floral accords, particularly jasmine, magnolia, and lily of the valley.

• Production: Hedione is produced through a complex chemical synthesis, involving the methylation of dihydrojasmonic acid, which itself is derived from jasmonic acid—a compound originally isolated from jasmine.

The Chemistry Behind Hedione ⚗️

Hedione's structure is what gives it its unique properties in perfumery. It is a bicyclic molecule, which is relatively small, allowing it to interact easily with the olfactory receptors in the nose. This interaction not only creates a pleasant scent but also enhances the perception of other floral notes within a fragrance. Additionally, Hedione has been shown to activate the vomeronasal organ (VNO) in humans, which is linked to pheromone detection, adding an extra layer of appeal that is both subtle and effective.

Usage in Perfumery 🧴

Hedione is widely used across the fragrance industry, found in everything from high-end luxury perfumes to more accessible, everyday scents. Its versatility makes it a favorite among perfumers who use it to:

• Enhance Floral Compositions: Hedione is often used to amplify and prolong the floral notes in a perfume, particularly jasmine, but also other white florals like magnolia and lily of the valley.

• Add Freshness and Radiance: Its fresh, dewy quality can brighten up a composition, giving it an airy, natural feel that is often compared to the scent of fresh-cut flowers or a spring breeze.

• Support Base Notes: Although primarily a heart note ingredient, Hedione's ability to diffuse and lift heavier notes means it can also play a role in smoothing and rounding out the base of a fragrance.

Notable Fragrances Featuring Hedione 🌸

Since its introduction, Hedione has become a hallmark of modern perfumery. It has been used in countless fragrances, some of the most notable being:

• Eau Sauvage by Dior (1966): The fragrance that introduced the world to Hedione, creating a sensation with its fresh, clean, and vibrant profile.

• CK One by Calvin Klein (1994): This unisex fragrance became a 90s icon, with Hedione playing a crucial role in its clean, citrusy, and floral appeal.

• Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani (1996): A bestseller that uses Hedione to achieve its fresh, aquatic, and universally appealing character.

Production and Sustainability 🌍

While Hedione is a synthetic molecule, its production is designed to be sustainable, with efforts continually made to minimise environmental impact. Firmenich, the company behind Hedione's creation, has implemented green chemistry principles in its production processes, ensuring that the manufacturing of Hedione is both efficient and environmentally conscious.