Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? August is one of the secret best months to launch a new fragrance. As summer winds down, shoppers are primed to discover and fall in love with new scents just in time for the pre-festive season. This timing allows fragrances to gain momentum and make it onto holiday wish lists, giving them a strong start in the market!

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Extrait de Parfum, olfactory travel, and instant scents 🛩️ 

2. Story: MISKEO - Minimalistic Scents from Berlin 🇩🇪 

3. QUIZ: The world’s most expensive absolute 🌏️ 

4. Fragrance Spotlight: All you need to know about Mimosa 🌼 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• Extrait de Parfum (> 20% concentration) is challenging the dominance of Eau de Parfum (10-20%) as consumers seek stronger, longer-lasting scents. This shift has led to the rise of high-concentration fragrances like Extraits, Intenses, and Extremes. Brands like NISHANE and AMOUAGE are capitalising on this trend, with Extraits becoming a new standard in niche perfumery. However, while Extrait variations can refresh and strengthen brand offerings, they also risk being seen as repetitive or unoriginal.

• Olfactory travel, a post-Covid trend, engages the sense of smell as a key way to explore new places. This sensory-rich experience includes scent-themed packages at luxury hotels and guided perfume tours in cities like London. The trend also introduces "smellscaping," where cities are mapped by their unique scents, offering a fresh perspective on urban exploration.

• The Perfume Shop is partnering with Deliveroo to offer fast delivery of over 1,000 perfumes, arriving in as little as 25 minutes. The service, launching in major UK cities like London, Manchester, and Glasgow, includes a "give-a-gift" feature for sending fragrances as presents.

NEW SPECIAL CONTENT 😍 

STORY 📖 

Last week, I had the pleasure of sitting down with Marie-Pierre, the founder and perfumer behind MISKEO Parfums, based in Berlin, Germany. Our conversation touched on the origins of MISKEO, her creative approach, and the challenges she faces as an independent perfumer.

Hey Marie, you’re based in Berlin, but you aren’t originally from the city. Can you tell us a little more about yourself?

Of course! I’m originally from Montreal, Canada, and I moved to Berlin a little over eight years ago. My journey into fragrances started several years back when I was still in Montreal, but it really took off after I moved here. Before I fully immersed myself in perfumery, I worked as the Head of Design at Zalando, where I gained a lot of experience that now influences my approach to creating scents.

How did you come up with the name MISKEO, and what does it signify?

When I was searching for a name for my brand, I wanted something that was easy to pronounce in any language and wasn’t tied to any particular culture. My background in anthropology gave me a deep interest in the origins of words, so I began looking at ancient languages. I found the Latin word "miscere," which means "to mix." That idea of blending is at the core of perfumery—combining different elements to create something entirely new. I decided to tweak the word slightly, changing the ‘C’ to a ‘K’ for a modern touch, and that’s how MISKEO was born.

What was your primary ambition with MISKEO’s first collection?

For my first collection, my ambition was to embrace a minimalist philosophy, creating perfumes that embody simple, clear concepts. Each fragrance in the collection was designed to be a straightforward interpretation of an idea—like ‘leaf’ or ‘spice.’ I wanted the wearer to immediately connect with the essence of the concept without getting lost in overly complex compositions. This approach allowed me to focus on the purity and clarity of each scent, ensuring that the core idea was always at the forefront.

Miskeo Collection
➡️ DISCOVERY SET ⬅️ 

BRUME

Family: Mineralic Green Fruit
Fragrant Materials: 20 naturals (47%) and 17 synthetics (53%)
Impressions: Juniper, Mastic, Aldehydes, Fruity notes, Geranium, Ozonic notes, Cucumber, Vetiver

The surreal impression of walking in thick fog, senses heightened to anchor your feet. Feeling like you‘re stepping into a parallel dimension, the mist enveloping you, transporting you.

DAIM

Family: Animalic Aromatic Floral
Fragrant Materials: 14 naturals (24%) and 25 synthetics (76%)
Impressions: Suede, Blood Orange, Black Pepper, Hay, Frangipani, Jasmine, Mahogany, Castoreum.

Timeless elegance found in simplicity. A homage to my grandparents' sense of style and dignity, wearing sleek hats, strings of pearls and dainty gloves despite their modest means.

Épices

Family: Spicy Woody Gourmand
Fragrant Materials: 21 naturals (43%) and 19 synthetics (57%)
Impressions: Mandarin, Coriander Seeds, Cardamom, Elemi, Myrrh, Musk, Patchouli, Virginian Cedarwood.

Cooking as alchemy, creative and transformative nourishment. The warmth of a good meal shared with people you love, a stranger‘s kindness welcoming you into their home.

Feuille

Family: Green Earthy Floral
Fragrant Materials: 12 naturals (30%) and 26 synthetics (70%)
Impressions: Tomato leaves, Chamomile, Pollen, Mimosa (Material Special in the following ⬇️ ), Linden blossom, Elderflower, Weeds, Violet leaves, Ambrette.

Entering a garden in early summer and sensing Life’s unstoppable abundance. Its mysterious force thriving on decay, its energy palpitating like a multitude of little hearts beating in unison.

Pistil

Family: Floral Animalic Green
Fragrant Materials: 15 naturals (16%) and 48 synthetics (84%)
Impressions: Galbanum, Raspberry, Wormwood, Violet, Jasmine, Narcissus, Lavender, Costus, Atlas Cedarwood.

The convergence of dualities. An inner journey to reclaim the wild ways, to be whole, at once raw and wise, fragile and mighty.

You mentioned a new collection—how does your approach differ from the first?

With my upcoming collection, I’m exploring the opposite direction. This time, I’m embracing a more maximalist approach, where the fragrances are vibrant, layered, and full of life. Instead of focusing on a singular concept, I want these perfumes to be playful and rich, offering a more complex and dynamic experience. The world feels heavy right now, and I believe art, including perfumery, should also be about fun and joy. So, with this new collection, I’m aiming to create something that feels exuberant and unrestrained, a celebration of scent in its most lively form.

You work closely with Pep, known as The Scentinel on Instagram, as your evaluator. Can you tell us about that collaboration?

Yes, Pep has been instrumental in my creative process. We connected during an Instagram interview, and our conversations naturally evolved into a working relationship. At some point, I realised I needed someone who spoke the language of perfumery to give me honest, constructive feedback. That’s where Pep came in. He’s based in Australia, which makes things a bit challenging, especially with shipping during the pandemic, but it’s been worth it. He helps me refine my ideas and ensures that the final product aligns with my creative vision. I don’t think I could have brought my collection to life without his input.

What challenges do you face as an independent perfumer, especially in terms of logistics and regulations?

One of the biggest challenges is definitely the regulatory side of things. As an independent perfumer, I have to handle everything myself, from sourcing materials to compiling the necessary documentation for safety assessments. This includes creating IFRA certificates, managing allergens, and dealing with the extensive paperwork required for each ingredient. Shipping is another major hurdle—especially since many of my customers are in the U.S. Shipping dangerous goods like perfume internationally is complicated and expensive. For instance, sending a discovery set costs me the same as shipping a full bottle, which makes it difficult to price things fairly for customers while covering my costs.

Despite these challenges, I’m committed to keeping MISKEO going because I believe in the art of independent perfumery. It’s not easy, but the creative freedom and connection with my customers make it all worthwhile.

How do you approach market presence, especially when balancing online and offline sales? What are some of the strategic choices you've made as a small brand competing globally?

Navigating market presence as a small brand is definitely a challenge. I focus on building strong relationships with select physical retailers who truly understand and appreciate the craft of independent perfumery. For instance, I’m present in a few niche shops like 15 West in Berlin (Germany exclusive) and others in cities like Brooklyn and Porto. These partnerships are crucial because they allow customers to experience my fragrances in person, which is something you can’t replicate online.

However, the majority of my sales come from online channels, especially given the global reach they offer. I’ve found that while online sales are more accessible, they require careful management, particularly when it comes to shipping, as we discussed earlier. Balancing the two—online and offline—means constantly weighing the benefits of wide-reaching online exposure against the intimate, hands-on experience that physical stores provide. It’s a delicate balance, but one that’s essential for growing a small brand in a competitive global market.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Mimosa 🌼 

What is Mimosa?

Mimosa, scientifically known as Acacia dealbata, is a fragrant plant that plays a significant role in the world of perfumery. Native to Australia, where it is one of the national emblems, this plant is also cultivated in India, Morocco, and southern France. Known for its bright yellow, fluffy flowers, mimosa emits a powdery and downy scent, highly cherished during the winter months in the Northern Hemisphere. The fragrance extracted from mimosa flowers is complex, offering a blend of floral and green facets with warm straw tones, adding richness and depth to various perfume compositions.

Origin 📍

Originally from Australia, mimosa was introduced to France in the early 19th century. The French Riviera, particularly the areas between Grasse and Cannes, has since become a key region for mimosa cultivation due to its favorable climate and soil. In addition to France, mimosa is also cultivated in India and Morocco, which are among the leading global producers.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: India, Morocco, France (notably in the regions of Grasse and the French Riviera).

• Annual Production in France: 40-50 tonnes for bouquets and 800-900 tonnes for perfumery (with significantly higher quantities in the 1980s).

• Cultivation Cycle: Mimosa trees start producing a significant harvest at 3-4 years of age, reaching peak production at 10-15 years. The blooming period for each tree lasts about 10 days, typically between February 10th and March 20th, depending on the weather.

• Economic Value: The average price per kilogram of mimosa flowers in France is approximately 1,50€, while mimosa absolute, a concentrated form of the fragrance, is priced at around 3.500€ per kilogram.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Mimosa thrives in the light, sandy soils and Mediterranean climate of the French Riviera. It is a resilient tree, capable of withstanding droughts and mild frosts, though the increasingly unpredictable climate poses challenges. The plant grows wild, often alongside other species like cork oaks and heather. Acacia dealbata, the variety used in perfumery, is particularly vigorous and known for its rapid, invasive growth.

• Growth: Mimosa naturally proliferates through producing shoots, allowing it to spread quickly. Its flowers bloom in dense, bright-yellow clusters that are harvested in late winter.

• Harvesting: Harvesting begins once the morning dew has evaporated. Large branches, or sometimes entire trees, are cut down, and the flowering tops are pruned and collected. These flowers are then swiftly transported to extraction facilities to preserve their delicate fragrance.

From Flower to Fragrance: Extraction and Use 🛢️

• Concrete vs. Absolute: Mimosa flowers undergo solvent extraction to produce two key products: mimosa concrete and mimosa absolute. Concrete is a semi-solid waxy substance obtained first, with a rich and complex scent. Absolute is a more refined, liquid extract obtained by washing the concrete with alcohol, which is then removed, leaving behind a highly concentrated fragrance.

• Yields: To produce 1 kilogram of mimosa concrete, approximately 1 metric ton of flowers is required. This concrete can then be processed further to yield about 250 grams of mimosa absolute.