London's Best-Kept Secret in Fragrance

Greetings, Fragrant Friend 👋 

Did you know: The NEZ magazine has a dedicated edition for the world of niche perfumery called “NICHE”. You can order a free copy from them (LINK at the end of this issue ⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️). You only pay for shipping.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Story: Building cultural bridges with Wasim Nouh (Owner of Damascent)

2. Industry Insights: The Small Quantities Dilemma 🤏 

3. Fragrance picks: Jasmine and Exaltenone

STORY

A few weeks ago, I interviewed Wasim Nouh, the creative nose behind Damascent. A London boutique label aiming to bridge the gap between the Jasmine City (Damascus) and the British countryside.

Hey, Wasim! What are your memories from your childhood in Damascus?

Hey, Sebastian! Oh, Damascus, it's like diving into a pool of memories. Picture this: As a kid, wandering those old streets meant being hit by this mix of sweet bakery scents and the fresh bloom of jasmine. When you hit the spice market, it's like a flavor explosion in the air, especially with all that cinnamon around. But jasmine, it's the heartbeat of Damascus. I mean, every time I catch a whiff, it's like being transported back to those carefree days. And that's why I infuse all my fragrances with a bit of that Damascus magic.

📹 Watch the best scenes of the interview

1. Wasim’s long way to create Barada

2. An encounter with five ladies in an elevator

3. The Fragrant Charm of Ancient Damascus

4. For babies, the most important tool is their nose

What would you like to share with us about the early beginnings of Damascent?

2014 feels like a lifetime ago! It took me about six years to finally bring Barada to life. At first, I was just tinkering with fragrances, trying to mix and match to create something unique. But it never quite felt right. Then it hit me—I wanted to be the mastermind behind it all. So, I dove headfirst into a perfumery course with Mr. John Stephen (Owner of Cotswold Perfumery), who turned out to be an incredible mentor. This gentleman is a wealth of knowledge, and I am still gaining so much value from his packed folders of wisdom.

My classmates loved it so much they wanted to partner with me for the launch! But I decided to keep it solo and added Barada to my lineup. The inspiration? Picture the lush greenery of London, the freshness of Europe. You know that feeling when you're strolling through a forest and every scent hits you like a wave? That's what I wanted to capture. Plus, the riverside in Damascus. Pure magic. It's like a sensory overload with the scent of flowers like Rose Damascena, Myrtle, Jasmine, Basil—everything just swirling around you. Not to mention the citrus orchards some kilometers away.

I've heard from many indie perfumers that the first strong positive reaction someone else has to their fragrances can be a turning point in their career. Was that moment with your classmates a similar experience for you?

Not exactly. Let me tell you about this hilarious moment in an elevator at Heathrow about eight months back. So, there I was, feeling super shy with five ladies, when out of the blue, they ask me, "Hey, what's that fragrance you're wearing?" I was taken aback, but when I finally admitted it was my own creation, their faces lit up. One of them even said, "Seriously? You made this?" It was wild! These ladies were all like, "We wanna smell rich," you know? And somehow, my fragrances seemed to hit the spot for them. It was such a boost, getting that kind of recognition out of nowhere.

Next to being the creative nose, how do you make sure your approach to building bridges between cultures is recognised by your customers?

I believe in the power of scent to tell stories and evoke deep emotions. For me, creating a fragrance is much like writing a personal diary with aromas. Each perfume I craft represents a chapter that captures a distinct time, place, or emotion from my life or the collective human experience. My approach to perfumery is deeply narrative-driven; it’s about using the art of fragrance to allow wearers to journey through memories and explore rich, cultural varieties. This method is not just about smelling pleasant but about connecting on a more profound, emotional level. Whether it's recalling a forgotten childhood memory or imagining a faraway place, my goal is to weave these elements together, giving life to a scent that tells a story as soon as you breathe it in.

Wasim, what a pleasure having you. Thanks for your inspiration!

God bless you. Thank you for having me.

Small Quantities Dilemma 🤏 

In the world of independent perfumery, creators often face significant challenges in sustaining their craft.

Let's break it down: on one side are the costs, and on the other, the revenues. Consider the scenario of selling to a distributor rather than directly to consumers. For instance, selling Chanel No. 6 to a retailer for €50, who then sells it for €150, yields a maximum return of €50 per unit. Then there are fixed costs to consider, including the fragrance ingredients, bottle, pump, and packaging, alongside one-time expenses like certification and safety reports. The key factor here is scale; whether producing 100 or 1000 units, the bulk of these costs remain constant, save for production expenses. This is where the challenge arises for independent perfumers, who, due to their limited production quantities, incur significant surcharges on fragrance ingredients.

Consider this: purchasing 5g of refined Myrrh may cost €1600 per kilogram, but buying 50g reduces the price to €682 per kilogram. The steepest price drop occurs at smaller quantities, disproportionately impacting those producing only a few hundred bottles. Thus, the crux of the issue lies in the high costs associated with small-scale production, as independent perfumers must contend with purchasing fragrance ingredients in minimal quantities, resulting in considerable expenses.

Fragrance picks 🤌 

Wasim suggested using plenty of Jasmine, as Damascus is known as the "City of Jasmine," and it pairs perfectly with a musk accord.

Get your free copy of NEZ NICHE (#2) HERE