Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋 

Did you know: Last week, for the first time in history, SIMPPAR (International Exhibition of Raw Materials for Perfumery) was held in Grasse, showcasing the latest innovations and trends in the perfume industry. The previous year's event featured 110 exhibitors from 24 countries and attracted a record 3,350 attendees, making it a must-attend for every perfumer.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Story: Inside the world’s most prestigious perfume school 🏫

2. Quiz Time: What’s that on the 🏖️ ?

3. Olfactory Training: Become a Fragrance Pro in less than a day 🤓 

In a recent conversation, I had the pleasure of speaking with Siann Gobin, a promising new talent in the world of perfumery.

Siann, when did you decide on a career in perfumery?

I discovered the world of perfumery quite by chance in 2018. At the time, I was studying cosmetics and wanted to work in a formulation laboratory. During my first year of training, I needed to do an internship. My parents were living in New Caledonia, so I sought an opportunity there. My mother discovered an independent perfumer's store and suggested I apply. I ended up interning with Marion Habault, a GIP graduate, and this experience was a revelation. I was amazed by the ability of perfumers to translate emotions and stories into olfactory notes. After that, I was certain I wanted to pursue a career in perfume.

What was your daily life like as a student at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (GIP)?

At GIP, we had a rigorous schedule that included olfaction lessons and tests every week. We studied both synthetic and natural raw materials, recreated various accords like floral, fruity, and gourmand, and learned the history of perfumes. We also had a year-long creative project where we had to develop a perfume based on a brief given by the class sponsor. Each year is sponsored by a major firm, providing unique industry insights; for instance, this year’s sponsor is Louis Vuitton, while last year it was Grassoise de Parfumerie. Additionally, being in Grasse, we had the unique opportunity to meet local producers and participate in harvests, which was an incredible experience.

GIP is known for its exclusivity, with only 12 students admitted each year. How does this impact your experience?

Being one of only 12 students at GIP is a privilege. The small class size allows for a very personalised and intensive learning experience. It creates a close-knit community where we can learn from each other’s diverse backgrounds and perspectives. Additionally, the small size provides unique networking opportunities with industry professionals and local producers, making the experience at GIP both enriching and impactful for personal and professional growth.

How many raw materials did you learn to recognise during your olfaction training at GIP?

We learned to recognise around 400 raw materials, a combination of both synthetic and natural ingredients. It's a challenging but achievable goal with daily practice and dedication.

What did you find most enjoyable and most challenging about your training at GIP?

I particularly enjoyed the group olfaction sessions, where we described scents using both standardised descriptors and personal ones based on our memories and cultural backgrounds. It was very enriching to share these experiences with classmates from all over the world. The most challenging part for me was the chemistry classes. While it’s essential to have some knowledge of chemistry, it's not my favorite subject.

Can you tell us about your experience working on your debut fragrance in Australia?

I was very fortunate to work with Cygnet Perfumery in Australia. Sondrine Kehoe, the creator of the brand, gave me the chance to create two fragrances without any constraints. This was a rare and precious opportunity. I focused on respecting the soul of the brand, which emphasises natural elements and landscapes, something I am also passionate about.

What inspired your creations, Terre et Mer and Avant la Nuit?

For Terre et Mer, I was inspired by the landscapes of the Mornington Peninsula near Melbourne, where I worked. I aimed to capture the essence of the dry grass fields, black cliffs, and stormy seas using aromatic, dry, mineral, and marine raw materials. The goal was to evoke the rugged beauty and dynamic contrasts of these natural environments, reflecting their raw and untamed character.

Avant la Nuit was inspired by the stunning dusks I witnessed in Australia. I wanted to recreate the transition from the warm, sparkling yellow-orange sky to the softer, rounder notes as the sky turned red and the sun disappeared. This fragrance aims to capture the serene yet dramatic change from day to night, using a blend of warm and inviting notes that gradually transition to deeper, more contemplative tones, mirroring the evening's calm and introspective mood.

Become a Fragrance Pro in less than a day 🤓 

Admittedly, learning to speak fragrances is tough. Hence, the quote, “fragrance is a language everybody understands but few speak," resonates deeply with us. But where to start if Malcolm Gladwell’s 10,000-hour rule is only halfway right?

Well, firstly, being able to articulate what you smell in a way that others can at least roughly understand is half the battle, isn’t it? This is nothing less than learning a language. Making sense of our acoustic and visual world is deeply embedded in every culture, but talking about smells isn’t. At least consciously.

That’s why we love the concept of The Fragrance Wheel so much. It gives amateurs and pros alike a foundation to talk about smells and fragrances. Starting from the outside (‘Fragrance Family’ - most generic) to the inside (‘Notes’ - somewhat specific), it serves as a great tool to help identify where on the spectrum a particular scent lies, and to identify single fragrant materials.

Pro Tip:

To get your olfactive language and experience going, you need to start somewhere, right? That’s why we recommend starting at home and training your nose with what’s there. Whether it’s lemons, black pepper, dried dates, or neroli tile cleaner, everyone has materials at home that are in our beloved cosmetic products. If you want a little more (disclaimer: rabbit hole alert!), you can order a beginner set, like this one.

And just between you and me, it’s much cooler to impress others with your fragrance knowledge, pulling out different essences and inspiring your friends with them, than to learn Italian with Babbel, isn’t it?