Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋 

did you know? The niche perfume brand of the same-named photographer and artist, Thomas De Monaco, is offering enthusiasts and those interested in the brand a shareholding opportunity. The "Crowd Capital Campaign" starts in September. Interested parties can register in advance at [email protected].

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Story: Riyal Noor - The unsung knight of Indonesian perfumery

2. QUIZ: To which family does the patchouli plant belong?

3. Raw Materials: All you need to know about Patchouli

Riyal Noor - The unsung knight of Indonesian perfumery

Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with Riyal Noor, a perfumer, musician, and owner of the perfume school Akademi Wangi Nusantara in Indonesia. Riyal is a man of many arts and the conversation made us hungry to visit the fragrant sites of Indonesia soon 🇮🇩.

Let's start with a fundamental question: Is fragrance a form of art?

Absolutely. Fragrance is both an art and an experience. Historically, perfume has been regarded as an art form. However, today, many people buy perfumes as a status symbol or based on popular opinions rather than true appreciation. For me, creating a fragrance involves the same creative process as making music or painting. It’s about crafting an experience that resonates deeply with the wearer.

You have a rich background in music. How does this influence your approach to creating perfumes?

Music has been a part of my life since I was five. I see many parallels between composing music and creating perfumes. Both require harmony and balance. For instance, I imagine musk as the bass note, providing depth, while citrus notes are like the melody, bright and uplifting. This method helps me to create scents that are not only pleasing but also emotionally evocative.

Let's talk about the fragrance market in Indonesia. How would you describe it, especially compared to other markets?

Indonesia is incredibly diverse, and this diversity is reflected in our olfactory preferences. We have access to a wealth of natural ingredients, such as patchouli, nutmeg, vetiver, and sandalwood, which influence our creations. Indonesian consumers generally prefer fresh and sweet scents, but there’s a growing interest in niche and artisanal perfumes. Unlike the typical olfactory pyramid used in the West, Indonesian perfumery is more about the overall sensation and experience a scent evokes, often relying heavily on natural ingredients.

You’ve mentioned that you run a perfumery academy. What have you observed about your students' goals and experiences?

Interestingly, about 90% of my students start with the intention of launching a perfume business. However, once they dive into the art and complexity of perfumery, about half of them shift their focus to enjoying it as a hobby. They realise that creating perfumes is not just about business; it’s a deeply personal and artistic endeavour.

One of your fragrances is called "Sunset." Can you tell us the story behind it?

"Sunset" is very personal to me. It was inspired by a conversation with my father. We were having a heated discussion, and he shared something profound. He said, "Do you know why people love sunsets? Because it's the time when lovers meet, when fathers return from work, when mothers start cooking, and when workers finish their day." This struck me deeply, reminding me that inspiration for fragrances often comes from simple, everyday moments. The fragrance captures this essence, starting fresh, with mandarin and sweet orange, transitioning into a subtle rose, and ending with earthy notes of vetiver and patchouli. It’s a journey from the brightness of day to the contemplative quiet of evening.

How do you incorporate traditional Indonesian methods with modern techniques in your academy?

It’s about finding harmony between the two. Indonesian perfumers typically use a lot of natural ingredients, whereas Western perfumery often emphasises synthetics. At my academy, we teach how to balance these approaches, using naturals to create authentic scents while incorporating synthetics to enhance and stabilise them. This blend of methods allows us to create unique fragrances that honour both traditions.

Thank you for sharing your insights and stories.

QUIZ 🎲 

All you need to know about Patchouli

What is Patchouli 🍀?

Patchouli, scientifically known as Pogostemon cablin, is a tropical plant. Renowned for its distinctive and robust fragrance, patchouli essential oil is a staple in the perfume industry, known for its woody, earthy, and sometimes chocolate-like notes. Despite its intense aroma, patchouli oil is unique in that it contains no allergenic substances, making it widely appreciated for its safety and versatility.

Origin 📍 

Originally from the Philippines, patchouli thrives in the heat and humidity of the Asian tropics. It grows wild throughout the Indonesian archipelago, with significant cultivation in Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Java. The journey of patchouli cultivation began in Malaysia in the 19th century before moving to Sumatra and eventually spreading across other Indonesian islands. Today, Indonesia remains the primary producer, supplying the majority of the world’s patchouli essential oil.

Key Facts 📔 

• Primary Producers: Indonesia (Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java), with smaller contributions from Bali, Flores, India, Malaysia, Madagascar, Guatemala, and Rwanda.

• Annual Production: Approximately 1,500 tonnes of patchouli oil are produced annually in Indonesia.

• Cultivation Cycle: The average period between planting and first harvest is about six months. Patchouli plants deplete the soil and need to be relocated every few years to maintain soil fertility.

• Economic Value: The average price of patchouli essential oil has stabilized around 50€ per kilogram, after fluctuating significantly over the past two decades.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾 

Patchouli cultivation is relatively simple but requires specific conditions: tropical climates, volcanic humus-rich soils with a neutral pH, and regular rain. The plant prefers high, undulating slopes up to 1,000 meters above sea level. However, climate change has impacted these regions, altering rainfall patterns and affecting harvests.

The cultivation process involves:

• Planting: Cuttings are planted during the rainy season, with fields prepared and trenches dug to accommodate the plants.

• Harvesting: Leaves are harvested early in the morning, dried, and then processed. The best quality oils come from leaves dried in the shade to prevent oil evaporation and maintain integrity.

Use 🛢️ 

Patchouli oil’s complex scent profile makes it a favorite among perfumers. It forms the basis of modern chypres, orientals, and floral orientals. Historically significant, patchouli was a key component in François Coty’s famous Chypre fragrance in 1917. Despite some of its facets being occasionally polarising, patchouli’s ability to provide sillage and persistence in perfumes ensures its continued popularity.

Collaborations like the one between LMR and Tripper in Indonesia focus on sustainable practices, traceability, and quality control, enhancing the value and integrity of patchouli oil in the global market.

ICONIC Patchouli Fragrances 🤩 

• Aromatic Patchouli: Patchouli intense by Nicolaï (2014)

• Leather Patchouli: Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford (2014)

• Floral Chypre: Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (1971)

• Fruity Chypre: Mitsuko by Guerlain (1919)

• Gourmand Patchouli: Angel by Mugler (1992)

• Ambery Spicy Patchouli: Tempo by Diptyque (2018)

• Ambery Balsamic Patchouli: Impressions Patchouli Heart No 1 by Ostens (2018)