Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Wright Brand Bacon celebtrated its 100th anniversary with a bacon-scented perfume! With notes of bergamot, patchouli, maple and applewood, it’s sure to turn heads—and tempt taste buds. 🥓🔥 

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Edible scents, Fragrance Innovation, Storytelling 🍽️🧑‍🔬 

2. Strictly Independent: Perfumer H 🇬🇧 

3. Scent MythBusters: Most used species = Best Smell? 👃 

4. QUIZ: Unusual notes 🤥 

5. Material Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Guaiac Wood 🪵 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #EDIBLESCENT: Edible-inspired fragrances are making waves, with matcha and watermelon perfumes leading the charge. According to the Vogue Business Beauty Tracker, searches for matcha scents grew by 127% and watermelon by 120% from November 2023 to October 2024. Perfume discovery sets also gained traction, with 1,300 average monthly searches, reflecting a growing curiosity to explore without full commitment. Jean Paul Gaultier emerged as the top-searched brand, with rising interest in names like True Religion, Lattafa, and Sabrina Carpenter, highlighting the evolving appeal of playful, approachable scents.

• #FRAGRANCEFUTURES: The Fragrance Innovation Summit 2024, taking place November 27 in Paris, is shaping up to be a must-attend event for industry innovators. Highlights include the talk "Fragrances Around the World," exploring market innovations and sales trends in emerging regions like China and Africa. Equally important is "AI, Neurotechs, and Beyond," which dives into the role of artificial intelligence and neuroscience in crafting next-generation olfactory experiences.

• #SCENTSURPRISE: Fragrance is breaking boundaries as companies like Cirque du Soleil and Esquire enter the perfume market. Esquire’s collaboration with Michael Malul resulted in a collection that channels the magazine’s editorial legacy, with scents like New Journalist and Editor in Chief, targeting young male consumers through platforms like TikTok. Meanwhile, Cirque du Soleil’s debut fragrance combines art deco aesthetics with a surrealist scent featuring buttered popcorn and freesia, reflecting its theatrical roots. These unconventional launches showcase fragrance’s growing appeal as both a revenue driver and an innovative storytelling medium.

Strictly Independent 🎨✨

Perfumer H, founded by British perfumer Lyn Harris in 2015, offers a collection of fragrances designed to complement the individual without overwhelming their presence. Each scent is housed in hand-blown glass bottles crafted by Michael Ruh, intended to be cherished for a lifetime. Harris's creations are inspired by the natural world, aiming to tell stories through scent. For those who appreciate the artistry and personal storytelling in perfumery, Perfumer H provides a refined olfactory experience.

PERFUMER H 🇬🇧 

• For Fans Of: Perfect for those who appreciate the nature-inspired elegance of Jo Malone London, where fragrances like Lime Basil & Mandarin or Wood Sage & Sea Salt feel effortless and personal, blending into everyday life

• Founded: Established by Lyn Harris in 2015

• Headquarters: London, United Kingdom.

• Number of Scents: 48

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

Perfumery doesn't exclusively use the "best-smelling" natural species. Instead, it often relies on a select few varieties like Jasminum grandiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Rosa damascena, and Rosa centifolia due to factors like yield, economic viability, and chemical composition. Many other species are overlooked, not because they lack pleasant aromas, but due to practical limitations in cultivation and extraction.

Unpacking the Myth 🕵️‍♀️

The Misconception

There's a common belief that perfumery taps into the vast array of fragrant plants, selecting only the best-smelling species nature has to offer for fragrance creation.

The Reality Check 🛑

In reality, the perfume industry utilises a limited number of species for key fragrance ingredients. This selection isn't solely based on their superior scent but also on factors like extraction efficiency, economic practicality, and historical precedent. Many wonderfully aromatic species are underutilised or ignored due to these constraints.

Case Studies: The Selective Use of Species 🧐 

Jasmine 🌸

• Over 200 species of jasmine exist, yet perfumery primarily uses:

  • Jasminum grandiflorum (Spanish or Royal Jasmine)

  • Jasminum sambac (Arabian Jasmine)

  • Jasminum auriculatum (Taruni)

Why These Species?

• Chemical Profile: They offer an ideal blend of aromatic compounds like indole, linalool, and benzyl acetate, resulting in a rich and captivating scent.

• Extraction Yield: Higher oil yield per flower makes extraction economically viable.

• Cultivation: These species are easier to cultivate on a large scale and thrive in key growing regions.

• Historical and Cultural Significance: Long-standing use in traditional perfumery and cultural practices has cemented their status.

Rose 🌹

• With over 150 species, perfumery focuses on:

  • Rosa damascena (Damask Rose)

  • Rosa centifolia (May Rose)

Why These Species?

• Aromatic Richness: High concentrations of desirable compounds like citronellol, geraniol, and phenyl ethyl alcohol.

• Oil Yield: They produce a significant amount of essential oil per weight of petals.

• Cultivation Feasibility: Adapt well to commercial farming in regions like Bulgaria (Valley of Roses) and Grasse, France.

• Consistency: Provide a reliable and consistent scent profile year after year.

Oud (Agarwood) 🌳

• Derived from the Aquilaria tree genus, but primarily from:

  • Aquilaria malaccensis (critically endangered 🚫)

  • Aquilaria crassna (critically endangered 🚫)

Why These Species?

• Resin Production: These species produce the highest quality and most aromatic resin when infected by mold.

• Scent Profile: Rich, complex aroma sought after in luxury perfumery.

• Availability: Historically, these species were more accessible in trade routes.

QUIZ 🎲

All You Need to Know About Guaiac Wood 🪵 

Did You Know? 🌟

Did you know that guaiac wood, often called the "Tree of Life," is so dense that it doesn't float in water? Historically valued for its durability and medicinal properties, guaiac wood has only found a special place in modern perfumery over the past two decades.

Guaiac Wood: The Smoky Artisan 🪵 

Imagine Guaiac Wood as the smoky artisan of the perfume world—earthy, warm, and complex. With its rich, woody aroma infused with subtle hints of smoke, tar, and a touch of sweetness, guaiac wood adds depth and distinctive nuance to fragrances.

Fragrance DNA 🧬

• Personality: Earthy, Mysterious, Warm

• Aroma Strength: 6/10

• Best Paired With: Citrus notes (bergamot, lemon), florals (rose, violet), spices (cardamom, pepper), and other woods (cedar, sandalwood)

• Secret Weapon: Acts as a natural fixative that not only extends the longevity of a fragrance but also introduces a creamy, balsamic undertone. This unique quality helps to seamlessly blend disparate notes, creating a harmonious and evolving scent profile.

Guaiac Journey 🗺️

1. Origin: Native to Paraguay and Argentina, extracted from the heartwood of Bulnesia sarmientoi

2. Cultivation: Sustainably harvested to protect the species; the wood is dense and rich in essential oils

3. Aroma Profile: Smoky, woody, with subtle sweet and balsamic undertones

4. Perfumery: Although guaiac wood has been known for centuries, it began gaining popularity in perfumery only about 16-18 years ago. Perfumers started embracing it in the early 2000s for its unique ability to add depth and a smoky character to fragrances.

5. Legacy: A valued note in niche and luxury perfumes, appreciated for its distinctive scent profile that has captivated the industry in recent years.

A Fascinating Fact 📖

Guaiac wood oil is solid at room temperature due to its high concentration of sesquiterpenes. This unique property requires it to be gently warmed before use in perfumery. Its reputation as a medicinal cure-all led to a surge in demand, elevating its status to almost mythical proportions.

Most Notable Guaiac Fragrances 💫

• 20.1 Sorong by Pierre Guillaume (2019): An exotic blend where guaiac wood intertwines with spices like nutmeg and clove, and floral notes such as ylang-ylang.

• Encre Noire by Lalique (2006): A dark and mysterious fragrance featuring guaiac wood, vetiver, and musk, creating a deep, woody scent that's both sophisticated and enigmatic.

• Guaiac 10 by Le Labo (2008): A minimalist composition that highlights guaiac wood with hints of musk and cedar, offering a clean yet smoky aroma exclusive to Tokyo.

• Wonderwood by Comme des Garçons (2010): A celebration of woods featuring guaiac wood, cedar, and sandalwood, this fragrance is a complex exploration of woody scents.