Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Humans can smell fear! When we're scared, our body odour changes due to chemicals like adrenaline, which others can subconsciously detect, influencing their behaviour. Some perfumers have even used this concept to create fragrances that evoke primal emotions like fear or excitement.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Mood AI, Scentertainment, Roses on the Moon 🪩 🌹 🌕️ 

2. Ask Me Anything: Market appreciation 🥸 

3. Scent MythBusters: Fragrances are a mix of ingredients + Alcohol 💐 

4. QUIZ: Scent without the flower 🔍️ 

5. Molecule Spotlight: All you need to know about Synthetic Musks 🦌 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• The fragrance industry is increasingly investing in functional home fragrance technology, with startups like Airzai leading the charge. In collaboration with Firmenich, Airzai is exploring fragrance design through neuroscientific research, bringing innovation to home environments with its AI-powered smart diffuser. This device customises scents to enhance mood and well-being, reflecting a shift towards tech-driven, functional home fragrance solutions.

• This year, D.S. & Durga has taken fragrance storytelling to a whole new level. In an entertaining documentary series, they show how a perfume can be more than just a scent—it can tell a deeply personal story. Episode 1 features Joe Talbot, the lead singer of IDLES, as he works with David from D.S. & Durga to transform a significant moment from his life into a unique fragrance called Gateau Blackout.

• Roses on the Moon: In a groundbreaking collaboration, Interstellar Lab and Astrolab are teaming up with SpaceX and the Antoine de Saint Exupéry Foundation to attempt something truly extraordinary—growing roses on the moon. Planned for 2027, this mission will use transparent, environmentally controlled plant capsules transported by SpaceX’s Starship to study the impact of the lunar environment on plant growth, particularly focusing on the phenotypes and molecular composition of these space-bound roses. This project could not only revolutionise how we think about space agriculture but also potentially pave the way for new, cosmic-inspired fragrance ingredients.

ASK ME ANYTHING 🗣️ 👃 

Riyal Noor: "Personally, I’m fond of creating different types of rain notes, which I find incredibly unique and evocative. However, I often find myself holding back because not everyone enjoys the idea of smelling like wet soil. It’s a fine line between what excites the creator and what will resonate with the public."

Marie-Pierre: "For me, the short answer is no. However, I do have finished perfumes that I adore but haven’t released because they either didn’t fully translate the concept I envisioned or didn’t feel original enough. These are the ones I keep for myself, more out of a sense of personal completion than marketability."

Chester Gibs: "Sometimes, I’ve created something I personally love, but I’m unsure if it would appeal to others. In these cases, I let different people smell it without any context—no notes, no idea of what I was trying to express. If they enjoy it, or even better, if they vocalise feelings that align with my intentions, I feel reassured. Having others evaluate your work is invaluable, even when they don’t like it. Ultimately, though, I have to love it myself. Like Sy said earlier, it’s about your own DNA. After all, I started making scents as a means of personal expression."

Claudia Camacho: "As an art historian, I can assure you that no true artist creates with the public in mind. I view perfumery as an art form, and I’m confident that in the niche market I work in, I will find customers who fall in love with what I create. Brands that aim to sell thousands and make huge profits will take a different approach, focusing on trends and consumer preferences. For me, it’s about artistic integrity, not mass appeal."

Sy Truong: "It all comes down to defining your DNA and brand. Do you want to create fragrances that please others or ones that satisfy your own vision? For me, it’s about expressing my own universe, and I strongly believe that there are people out there who will connect with what I’m trying to convey through my creations and will love them."

Riyal Noor: "Open discussions with the community are a good start. Getting a second opinion is valuable, but always remember that there’s no such thing as a perfect perfume. The goal is continuous progression."

Marie-Pierre: "The ultimate confirmation is when my work sparks a dialogue with the wearer—whether it’s because it captured their imagination or provoked strong emotions. It’s magical when someone can feel and articulate the story I wanted to tell without having read the description. That’s when I know I’ve done something special."

Sy Truong: "For me, it’s about letting the work speak for itself. I don’t send my products to key opinion leaders or influencers for promotion. I trust in myself and my creations, and I’m reassured when I receive good feedback from industry professionals who purchase my fragrances simply because they want them. Having a network of friends and industry experts for professional feedback is also crucial."

Claudia Camacho: "I know a perfume is finished when I realize that adding anything more would disrupt the peace and beauty it already holds. When there’s nothing left to add, that’s when I consider my work complete."

Curious about the art of perfumery or have a burning question you've always wanted to ask a perfumer?

Share your questions with us, and we answer them in our next feature ⬇️ !

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

➡️ Short answer: Not quite❓️

TL;DR

A fragrance isn’t just a simple blend of ingredients. It’s about how these ingredients interact, creating a complex, evolving experience that goes far beyond just their individual properties.

More Than the Sum of Its Parts

The idea that a fragrance is merely a combination of various ingredients is a common misconception. In reality, a well-crafted scent is much more than a list of components; it’s the result of how these ingredients interact, creating an experience that is as much an art as it is a science. Fragrance is often said to be 50% art and 50% science, where chemistry provides the foundation, but creativity drives the magic. Think of it like a symphony—each note is important, but it’s the harmony and interplay between them that creates the music. Similarly, in perfumery, certain ingredients serve different roles, like building bridges between scent layers, enhancing longevity, or bringing out the best in others.

Blenders and Bridges: The Art of Harmonisation

Blenders and bridges play crucial roles in ensuring that the different notes of a fragrance work together smoothly. Blenders are ingredients that harmonise and unify the overall composition, ensuring that no individual note stands out too harshly or disrupts the scent’s balance. An example of a blender might be lavender, which is often used to smooth transitions between more dominant notes like spices and woods.

On the other hand, bridges connect specific notes within the fragrance, helping to create smooth transitions as the scent evolves over time. For instance, sandalwood can act as a bridge between floral top notes and deeper, woody base notes, creating a seamless olfactory transition. While both blenders and bridges aim to create harmony, blenders focus on the overall cohesion, whereas bridges are more concerned with linking specific notes.

Enhancers and Modifiers: Fine-Tuning the Fragrance

Enhancers and modifiers are used to adjust the intensity and character of a fragrance. Enhancers amplify certain aspects of the fragrance, such as its strength or longevity. For example, Iso E Super is a popular enhancer that boosts the woody and amber aspects of a fragrance, making it more pronounced and long-lasting without overshadowing other notes.

Modifiers, in contrast, are used to subtly alter the fragrance’s profile, adding unique twists or nuances. For instance, citrus esters can be used as modifiers to add a fresh, zesty twist to a floral fragrance, giving it a more vibrant and dynamic character. While enhancers amplify, modifiers refine and adjust, both contributing to the overall complexity of the fragrance.

Fixatives: Anchoring the Scent

Fixatives are essential to ensuring that a fragrance lasts longer and maintains its structure over time. These ingredients slow down the evaporation of more volatile components, anchoring the scent to the skin. Common fixatives include benzoin, which adds a warm, sweet depth to fragrances, and musk, known for its ability to extend the life of the scent while adding a sensual undertone.

Fixatives are critical not just for longevity but also for ensuring that the fragrance evolves in a pleasing way over time. They hold the composition together, allowing the top, middle, and base notes to reveal themselves gradually and gracefully.

Why This Matters

Understanding this interplay between art and science can change how you perceive fragrances. Instead of just focusing on the ingredients listed, think about the overall experience. A well-crafted fragrance reflects the perfumer's expertise in balancing each note, ensuring that every ingredient plays a vital role in the overall composition, far beyond simply adding a pleasant smell.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Synthetic Musks®

What Are Synthetic Musks?

Synthetic musks are a fascinating category of fragrance molecules that have revolutionised the world of perfumery. These compounds were developed as alternatives to natural musks, which were traditionally extracted from the glands of animals like the musk deer. The term "musk" itself originates from the Sanskrit word muṣká, meaning "testicle," reflecting its animal origins. Today, ethical and sustainability concerns have driven the industry towards synthetic versions, which offer a more consistent, humane, and eco-friendly approach to capturing the warm, sensual essence of musk.

History 📜

The journey of synthetic musks began in the late 19th century, fueled by the high demand for musk and the ethical challenges associated with its natural extraction. The first synthetic musk, known as Musk Baur, was discovered by Albert Baur in 1888. This compound, belonging to the "nitro musk" category, marked the dawn of synthetic musk production. However, it wasn't until the mid-20th century that synthetic musks truly gained popularity, thanks to the introduction of more stable and safer alternatives, such as polycyclic and macrocyclic musks. These newer molecules offered greater versatility in perfumery, enabling the creation of long-lasting, complex fragrances without the ethical and environmental concerns tied to their natural counterparts.

Key Facts 📔

Types of Synthetic Musks: Synthetic musks are classified into four main types, each with unique characteristics and olfactory profiles:

• Nitro Musks:

  • Examples: Musk Ketone, Musk Xylene, Musk Ambrette

  • Fragrance Profile: Sweet, powdery, and rich

  • Usage: Historically significant but now largely phased out due to safety concerns.

  • How to Recognise: Often characterised by an animalic nuance, with deep, rich undertones.

• Polycyclic Musks:

  • Examples: Galaxolide (HHCB), Tonalid (AHTN), Cashmeran

  • Fragrance Profile: Clean, sweet, and slightly fruity or floral

  • Usage: Widely used in a variety of products, though environmental concerns have prompted some restrictions.

  • How to Recognise: Typically has a sweet, soft character that is easily identifiable as a signature musk scent.

• Macrocyclic Musks:

  • Examples: Ambrettolide, Habanolide, Exaltolide

  • Fragrance Profile: Soft, clean, and natural

  • Usage: Favored for their biodegradability and natural-like scent, used in fine perfumery; often more expensive due to the complexity of their synthesis.

  • How to Recognise: Often has a cosmetic, skin-like character, with a warm and inviting scent profile.

• Alicyclic Musks:

  • Examples: Helvetolide, Serenolide, Romandolide

  • Fragrance Profile: Fresh, floral, and fruity

  • Usage: Less common, but valued for their ability to add a modern twist to musk notes.

  • How to Recognise: Typically has a floral undertone, offering a linear, bright musk experience.

Usage in Perfumery 🧴

Synthetic musks play an integral role in perfumery, serving as the backbone of many compositions.

Here's how perfumers utilise synthetic musks:

• Enhancing Longevity: Synthetic musks are renowned for their staying power. They provide a lasting base note that anchors the fragrance, ensuring it lingers on the skin for hours.

• Adding Depth and Warmth: Musks are often described as "olfactory glue" because they help to bind the other elements of a perfume together, adding warmth, depth, and complexity to the composition.

• Creating Comforting Scents: Many synthetic musks evoke a sense of coziness and comfort, reminiscent of soft fabrics or the warmth of a loved one's embrace. This makes them ideal for use in fragrances designed to be soothing or intimate.

• Versatility Across Fragrance Families: Whether enhancing the creaminess of a floral scent, adding a sensual touch to an oriental fragrance, or providing a clean, fresh backdrop in a modern unisex perfume, synthetic musks are incredibly versatile.