Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋 

Did you know? While the rest of Europe heads to the beach, you can enjoy the vibrant vibe of Ibiza right from home. Grandmaster Mark Buxton’s "Last Call to Ibiza" blends cannabis, coffee, mandarin, and raspberry, capturing the essence of sunrise, white lilies, and nights spent dancing, with notes of marijuana and a fresh breeze. 🌅 🏝️ 🪩 

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Story: Portugal's first independent female perfumer 🇵🇹 

2. QUIZ: Pink Pepper’s family member

3. Raw Materials: All you need to know about Pink Pepper 🌸 🌶️ 

Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with Cláudia Camacho, Portugal's first female independent perfumer. Cláudia’s journey from contemporary art to the world of perfumery is as fascinating as the fragrances she creates. Every detail of her fragrances, no matter how small, has a reason for existence and a deep correspondence. It is probably fair to say that Claudia offers the most exclusive and rare fragrance artworks coming from Europe.

Claudia, it’s fascinating to learn about your transition from contemporary art to perfumery. What inspired this dramatic shift?

Well, Sebastian, first of all, thank you for having me. Perfumery has always been a great passion of mine. I used to say that passions have to be worked on and put into practice. Although I don’t come from a family of perfumers, my mother had a very peculiar taste in perfumes, and I think my passion was born from the magic of the aromas that surrounded her. In 2018, after years of self-study, I decided to take a professional approach to perfumery with Marina Barcenilla.

How did that relationship start?

It was actually quite serendipitous. In 2018, both Marina and I were going through significant changes in our lives. We connected via email, and she invited me to learn from her. Marina is a natural teacher and very open to sharing her knowledge, which is rare in the often secretive world of perfumery. I spent a lot of time studying and learning the classic methods of creating perfumes, which then allowed me to innovate and create my own unique scents. Given the choice between the French and Spanish schools of perfumery, I chose the Spanish. Spain has an impressive roster of perfumers and a powerful industry that greatly influenced my approach.

That's such an interesting path. So, do you still keep your ties with the art world, or is your focus now entirely on perfumery?

I’d say about 90% of my focus is on perfumery, but I do still have connections in the contemporary art field. Sometimes people ask me to consult or create exhibitions, so I keep a foot in both worlds.

Speaking of unique scents, your debut fragrance, Mystery, has received a lot of praise. Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind it?

Mystery is inspired by Sintra, my hometown, which I consider magical. I wanted to capture its aromatic essence and divided Sintra into three moments to create a trilogy of perfumes: Mystery, Relic, and Tragedy. Each perfume represents a different aspect of how one can experience Sintra.

For Mystery, I focused on the unique, humid atmosphere of Sintra’s misty mountains. The fragrance opens with a bold note of black pepper, which is unusual for a top note but makes a strong statement. This choice reflects the historical importance of black pepper in Portuguese trade. The heart of Mystery features mushrooms, evoking the rich, earthy scent of the forest floor. The base notes are a complex blend of pink pepper, resins and woods, capturing the deep, lingering presence of the Sintra landscape."

It’s impressive how you’ve incorporated your artistic background into your perfumery. How do you approach the design and presentation of your perfumes?

For me, aesthetics are crucial. I want my perfumes to reflect both ethics and beauty. Mystery, for example, is presented in a wooden case inspired by the cork convent of Sintra. This convent used cork to protect against the cold and humidity, which resonated with me. Cork is not only sustainable but also deeply connected to the local heritage. By using cork, I wanted to pay homage to Sintra's traditions and emphasize the natural, organic elements of my fragrances.

That’s such a thoughtful way to present your work. Can you tell us more about the other perfumes in the trilogy?

Sure. Relic, which is coming out this year, focuses on the floral aspects of Sintra. It's a celebration of the region’s lush gardens and wildflowers. The fragrance features notes of various flowers, supported by papyrus and birch to add depth and complexity. Tragedy, planned for next year, will reflect the coastal and vinous character of Sintra. It will have a more gourmand profile, with notes inspired by the Atlantic breeze and local vineyards.

Your approach to creating perfumes seems very detailed and personal. What’s next for you after completing this trilogy?

Once Tragedy is launched, I plan to explore other perfume experiences. Each project is a deep dive into different aspects of art and perfumery, and I’m excited about what’s next. I enjoy working in silence, taking my time to perfect each fragrance. This isn’t just a chemical process for me; it’s about capturing the soul of the place and the moment.

Claudia, thank you for sharing your journey with us. Your dedication to both art and perfumery is truly inspiring.

Thank you, Sebastian. It was a pleasure talking to you.

QUIZ 🎲 

All you need to know about Pink Pepper 🌸🌶️

What is Pink Pepper 📚️ ?

Pink pepper, often referred to as pink peppercorn, comes from the berries of the Schinus terebinthifolius tree. Known for its spicy and fresh scent, pink pepper has become a popular ingredient in modern perfumery, adding a unique, vibrant touch to many fragrances.

Origin 📍 

Originally from South America, particularly Brazil and Peru, pink pepper is now widely cultivated in Madagascar, Réunion, South Africa, and Mauritius. Introduced to Madagascar in the 1940s, the crop has significantly expanded since 2005, supported by World Bank and European Union initiatives. Today, Madagascar and Brazil are the leading global producers, with Madagascar's annual harvest reaching around 300 metric tons.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: Madagascar, Brazil, Réunion, South Africa, Mauritius

• Annual Production: Approximately 300 metric tons in Madagascar

• Cultivation Cycle: Trees start yielding fruit after 3 years and reach peak production at 6 years, with annual yields stabilising at about 2 kilograms per tree

• Economic Value: High demand in the perfume industry, particularly for luxury and niche fragrances

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾 

Pink pepper trees thrive in tropical and subtropical climates. They are relatively undemanding and can adapt to various environments. In Madagascar, they are grown in the high plateaus and around Fort-Dauphin, benefiting from microclimates that provide ideal growing conditions. The trees are pruned to maintain a height of 2-3 meters, making it easier to harvest the berries, which are collected by hand and processed for their essential oil.

Use 🛢️

Pink pepper’s complex scent profile makes it a favorite among perfumers. Its aroma is characterised by spicy, fresh, and lemony notes, with a hint of resinous, pine-like facets. The essential oil is extracted using supercritical CO2 extraction, which preserves the delicate olfactory properties of the berries. This method results in a high-quality extract that is highly prized in the fragrance industry, especially for luxury and niche perfume.

A Rich History 🌍

Pink pepper has been used for centuries in South America for its curative properties and as a decorative element in homes. It crossed into Europe and North America in the 1980s, initially gaining popularity in the culinary world before perfumers were captivated by its fresh, sparkling character. Today, it is a staple in both food and fragrance industries, celebrated for its versatility and unique aroma.

ICONIC Pink Pepper Fragrances 🤩

• Woody Spicy: Archives 69 by Etat Libre d'Orange (2011)

• Floral Spicy: Mon Nom est Rouge by Majda Bekkali (2012)

• Floral Aromatic: Rose Ardoise by Atelier Materi (2022)

• Powdery Floral: Iris Baie Rose by La Closerie des Parfums (2021)

• Floral Fruity: Trésor Midnight Rose by Lancôme (2011)