Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? In Wales, New Year’s cheer smells sweet! Kids carry clove-studded "calennig" apples door to door, spreading luck and song. 🍎✨

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: CaFleureBon, Extraction Toys, and too much scents 🌷🚫 

2. Strictly Independent: Bu Feng 🇨🇳 

3. Scent MythBusters: Master Perfumer = Masterpieces 🌿👪️ 

4. QUIZ: Trending captive molecule 📈 

5. Scent Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Green Tea Fragrances 🍵🍃 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• #CAFLEUREBON: With over 6,000 launches, 2024 pushed boundaries in perfumery. Gourmand notes like croissant and puff pastry were widely explored, while lychee and cherry dominated fruity compositions. Salt evolved into a key ingredient beyond marine scents, florals returned with modern interpretations, and coffee-based fragrances gained popularity. Highlights were Sarah Baker’s Peach’s Revenge with its natural peach accord and Dusita’s Pelagos blending salty and herbal notes. Parfums de Nicolai’s Pavlova redefined gourmands, while Atelier des Ors’ Kawa Karda elevated coffee into a rich, spicy centerpiece.

• #SCENTTOYS: MANE’s groundbreaking Jungle Essence™ technology, highlighted at ScentExplore 2024, redefines extraction by capturing the true essence of natural and artificial materials instantly. Captured by our friend Olivia (FutureofSmell) here, this portable and eco-friendly tool allows on-the-spot processing of materials, from fresh fruits to unconventional items like money bills.

• #TOOMUCHSCENT: Sainte Cellier’s Instagram post exposed a hard truth about today’s fragrance market: too many launches, too little impact. With thousands of perfumes released in 2024, the constant churn has left consumers overwhelmed and brands struggling to differentiate. They pointed out the disconnect between the slow consumption of perfume and the rapid production cycle, questioning whether creativity is being overshadowed by volume. The post sparked widespread debate, with industry voices calling for a return to thoughtful, intentional releases that honour the art of perfumery.

Strictly Independent - China Special 🇨🇳 

For those who attended Esxence in 2024, the name Bu Feng might sound familiar. However, for most, this ultra-niche, perfumer-led brand from China remains under the radar. Exclusively available in Europe through our scent pioneer friends at 15West, Bu Feng stands out for its exceptional quality and distinctive creations. All of their perfumers are classically trained—Lan Xiao, for instance, was named CFA's Perfumer of the Year in 2023—and they craft fragrances in China that beautifully capture narratives deeply rooted in their cultural heritage. This is the kind of artistry we’re thrilled to support!

⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️ ⬇️ 

We have three exclusive Bu Feng samples from 15West. Reply to this mail with your favourite Bu Feng scent for a chance to win one of these ultra-niche gems!

BU FENG 🇨🇳 

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

It’s tempting to assume that the world’s top perfumers consistently craft hit after hit. But even giants like Olivier Cresp admit that out of 400 creations, 80% were flops and 20% were successes. In some cases, he made 600+ trials for a single scent, illustrating that “failures” are inevitable—and often instrumental—in forging true fragrance innovation.

The Misconception

Many believe that once a perfumer reaches “master” status, every launch turns to gold. The massive success of certain fragrances—like Thierry Mugler’s Angel—fuels this myth. Yet the reality is that even for highly acclaimed “noses,” plenty of releases don’t resonate, be it due to changing trends, off-target marketing, or brand constraints.

The Reality Check 🛑

Whether a fragrance succeeds isn’t just about artistic brilliance; timing, public taste, and brand support are equally crucial. As Olivier Cresp’s experience shows (sometimes 600+ formula tweaks before finalizing a scent), the process is far from a guaranteed blockbuster. A single off-key factor—an overly “intellectual” scent, mismatched launch campaign, or simple bad timing—can doom an otherwise remarkable perfume.

Why So Many Flops? 🔍

1. Market Saturation
   The fragrance market is overflowing with new launches, making it tough for any one product to stand out.

2. Changing Trends
   Consumer preferences shift quickly, causing hits in one era to fall flat a few years later.

3. Brand Constraints
   Strict briefs, budget limitations, and brand directives can hinder a perfumer’s creative freedom.

4. Timing & Marketing
   Even brilliant formulas need a solid marketing strategy and the right moment to shine.

Master Perfumer ≈ Elite Athlete 🏃🏌️‍♀️ 

Reaching the “master perfumer” level is akin to hitting the pinnacle of professional sports. Think Michael Schumacher, Michael Jordan, Tiger Woods, or Roger Federer—unparalleled talents who stand out even among other elite athletes. In perfumery, many see Quentin Bisch as one of those top-tier figures today. Yet just as even the greatest athletes don’t win every single match or race, a master perfumer doesn’t score a commercial hit every time. Consistent excellence is a testament to skill, discipline, and adaptability—but flops remain part of the journey.

QUIZ 🎲 

All You Need to Know About Green Tea & Matcha Fragrances 🍵 🍃 

What Are Green Tea and Matcha in Fragrances?

Green tea and matcha in perfumery refer to accords inspired by the fresh, delicate, and subtly grassy aroma of brewed tea leaves. While natural extracts from tea leaves can be used, these accords often rely on a combination of both natural components (like tea absolutes and herbal extracts) and synthetics (like aroma-chemicals simulating green or leafy nuances).

Origin 📍

The use of tea notes in perfumery gained popularity in the 1990s, coinciding with the global rise in tea culture. Perfumers sought to capture the soothing qualities of green tea and the rich cultural heritage of the Japanese tea ceremony. Matcha—the finely ground powder of specially grown and processed green tea leaves—offers a more intense and creamy take on the classic tea accord, reflecting its ceremonial importance in Japanese tradition.

Key Facts 📔

Scent Profile: Fresh, green, and subtly herbal with nuances of hay, grassy sweetness, and a soft, creamy texture (especially in matcha interpretations).

Main Components:

• Green Tea Absolute: Captures the natural, slightly bitter and leafy scent of tea.

• Matcha Extract: Infuses a rich, sweet-grassy aroma with mild umami facets.

• Hedione, Galbanum, & Other Green Aroma-chemicals: Enhance the crisp, dewy, and uplifting nature of tea accords.

Creation:
Green tea and matcha accords are crafted using a balance of herbal extracts, citrusy or floral notes, and modern synthetics to replicate that invigorating “tea steam” effect.

Crafting Green Tea & Matcha Accords 🧪

As tea leaves themselves yield delicate scents, perfumers cleverly build tea-inspired accords:

• Tea Absolutes & Extracts: Add authentic, slightly bitter, and softly tannic tones.

• Green Aroma-chemicals: Reinforce the leafy and grassy quality often associated with freshly steeped tea.

• Maté Extract: Sometimes used to bring a vegetal depth and subtle smokiness.

• Floral & Citrus Elements: Jasmine, neroli, bergamot, or lemon can uplift and brighten tea’s softer facets, reminiscent of refreshing tea blends.

• Musks & Creamy Notes: Offer a rounder, more velvety texture (especially in matcha-inspired fragrances).

Tea Styles in Fragrance 🎨

Just as perfumers interpret different facets of leather, they also explore various expressions of tea:

1. Classic Green Tea: Crisp, invigorating, and light. Often blended with citrus or subtle florals, highlighting the refreshing aspect of tea.

2. Matcha (Creamy Green Tea): Richer, slightly sweet, and more intense. Notes of milky, gently bitter nuances evoke the sensation of whisked matcha.

3. Herbal Tea (Tea Blends): Combines green tea with herbs like mint, lavender, or chamomile for a more aromatic profile.

4. Smoky Tea (Lapsang Souchong Inspiration): Adds a layer of smoky intrigue, sometimes through maté or birch tar, for a deeper, mysterious take on tea.

5. Floral Tea: Enhances the delicate interplay between tea and blossoms like jasmine, magnolia, or rose.