Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Research has shown that the scents you smell while sleeping can influence the emotional content of your dreams. Pleasant smells, such as roses, are more likely to lead to positive dreams, while unpleasant odours may lead to negative ones.

🗓️ Contents of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Fragrance2o, Pitti & Prada 😚🧣

2. Ask Me Anything: Staff perfumer dreams 🛏️ 

3. Scent MythBusters: Complex formulas 💐 

4. QUIZ: Location of largest FF house 🔍️ 

5. Molecule Spotlight: All You Need to Know about Labdanum 🌼 

Note-Worthy 🔎🌸

• Osmo, backed by $60M from Google Ventures, has launched Fragrance 2o, blending perfumery with advanced chemistry and AI to create a sense of smell for computers. While it’s unclear exactly how it works, Osmo was the first to create a computer odour map, positioning them as the OpenAI of digital scent. Their Beta Programme invites brands launching fragrances in the next 3-6 months to innovate faster, using AI models to iterate quickly, ensuring transparency and high-quality ingredients, and setting a new standard for the fragrance industry.

• Pitti Fragranze once again impressed the artistic perfumery world, showcasing both independent and international brands. This year's theme, "The Sound of Fragrance," highlighted the sensory connection of scent. Eye-catching displays like Bronth’s pistachio-inspired fragrance and Laboratorio Olfattivo’s Oud in White delighted attendees. Minimalism shone through with perfumes like Dusita’s Mélodie de l'Amour, blending floral and amber. Gourmand scents, featuring salted caramel and pistachio, offered a subtle sweetness. Oud also returned with fresh, floral interpretations, redefining this classic note for the season.

• Prada Beauty is embracing AI to redefine floral fragrances with its Paradoxe Virtual Flower Lab during NYFW. The immersive pop-up lets visitors feel like part of a perfume ad in an AI-generated floral world. Interactive features, like 3D body scans and olfactive discovery rooms offer a tech-forward sensory journey. The new Prada Paradoxe scent—a blend of Bergamot, Jasmine, and Musk—aims to embody Prada femininity. While the technology enhances the experience, the "immersion" aspect with human interaction feels a bit odd to some. Is Prada effectively pushing boundaries, or should they refine this approach?

ASK ME ANYTHING 🗣️ 👃 

Chester Gibs: "I’m very charmed by brands that put the names of perfumers on their bottles, like Maison Rebatchi, Frederic Malle, Essential Parfums, and of course, Annindriya, which published my debut perfume. Those houses—and Frederic Malle in particular—not only celebrate their love for perfume but also celebrate the creators. I find that philosophy really interesting, and of course, their perfumes are of high standards."

Marie-Pierre: "I would love to create scents for non-perfume brands, especially for events or institutions that promote art, imagination, and human connection. I would be thrilled to compose scents that help Alzheimer’s patients find their way back to a lost memory or perfume Chappell Roan’s stage, for example!"

Claudia Camacho: "Any and all houses that respect the perfumer and their creation—and pay decently!"

Sy Truong: "I would say yes immediately when I feel that they could match my DNA or when the core values of the brand impress me. I’d also say yes if they respect perfumers and their creativity."

Riyal Noor: "I would prefer to collaborate with a small brand (even new ones) that has great potential, particularly if they have a strong marketing team and offer flexibility in creation."

Chester Gibs: "A big lab and tons of materials to experiment with."

Postmodern Perfumer: "I’m a bit envious of perfumers at big houses—not because of creative freedom or recognition, as there’s almost none of that for them. But they have lab assistants to do the boring and time-consuming tasks, so they can focus on the brief. Also, some of them get to work with captive molecules we don’t have access to, which gives them a bit of an unfair advantage."

Marie-Pierre: "Besides what Postmodern Perfumer mentioned, I’m most envious of one advantage big houses have—volume. As a small indie brand, you're limited in terms of suppliers (raw materials, packaging, logistics, etc.) because many have high minimum order quantities. We also can’t negotiate proper shipping rates. Costs are higher for small brands, and fewer choices are available."

Claudia Camacho: "Everything has already been said by my colleagues—access to exclusive raw materials and obtaining great qualities. The price of a kilo for me is very different from the price for big houses."

Sy Truong: "Most likely, it’s the chance to access the raw materials library and captive materials. I agree with Postmodern Perfumer that big houses always have technology and lab assistants to help them deal with their work."

Riyal Noor: "Staff perfumers are supported by fragrance evaluators and lab assistants. Raw materials won’t be a prime issue if you can maintain access, but the key thing is finding balance between what you create and the target market. That’s where a professional fragrance evaluator comes in—and they even have dedicated schools for this, which are often provided by big companies. If you’re aiming for the commercial sector, this support is critical."

Curious about the art of perfumery or have a burning question you've always wanted to ask a perfumer?

Share your questions with us, and we answer them in our next feature ⬇️ !

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

TL;DR

The number of ingredients in a fragrance formula doesn't inherently determine its complexity or quality. While some iconic perfumes have lengthy ingredient lists, true olfactory complexity comes from the skilful blending of notes, the quality of materials, and the perfumer's expertise. Both minimalist and complex formulas can achieve depth and appeal, debunking the notion that more ingredients automatically make a better or more intricate scent.

The Myth of Formula Length

Historically, fragrances like Chanel No. 5 and Joy by Jean Patou have been celebrated for their rich, complex formulas containing numerous ingredients. This has led to the perception that a higher ingredient count signifies superior quality and refinement. Marketing strategies often emphasise the number of components to imply luxury and careful craftsmanship.

However, equating the length of a formula with its quality oversimplifies the art of perfumery and overlooks several critical factors.

Quality Over Quantity: The Art of Balancing Notes

• Ingredient Synergy: A skilled perfumer can create complex accords using just a few ingredients that interact in intricate ways. For example, the

  classic fougère accord utilises three main components—lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin—to produce a multifaceted, forest-like scent. The interplay of these notes creates an illusion of complexity beyond their individual contributions.

• Precision and Balance: Adding more ingredients doesn't always enhance a fragrance; it can sometimes muddle the composition. A carefully crafted formula with fewer ingredients can achieve a clearer, more defined scent profile. Overloading a perfume with numerous notes may lead to a lack of focus, making it challenging to discern individual facets.

• Simplicity as a Strength: Some of the most respected fragrances are remarkably simple. Escentric Molecules' Molecule 01, for instance, features a single synthetic molecule—Iso E Super—yet it delivers a subtle, intriguing scent that evolves uniquely on each wearer. This minimalistic approach highlights how simplicity can be just as effective as complexity.

The Role of Raw Materials

The quality of raw materials significantly impacts a fragrance's character. High-quality natural extracts and advanced synthetic molecules offer richness and depth that inferior ingredients can't replicate, regardless of quantity. Premium materials often possess inherent complexity, revealing multiple scent facets that develop over time. This intrinsic richness can make a perfume feel complex, even with a concise formula.

Marketing and Perception

Marketing often plays a role in perpetuating the myth that longer formulas are superior. By highlighting extensive ingredient lists, brands suggest exclusivity and detailed craftsmanship. However, this focus can mislead consumers, emphasising quantity over the skill and care involved in perfumery. True perfection lies not in the number of ingredients but in the creativity and expertise applied to compose a balanced scent.

Historical Perspective Expanded

While iconic perfumes like Portrait of a Lady have complex formulas, their success isn't solely due to the number of ingredients but how those ingredients are skilfully blended. These classics set a precedent in their time, showcasing innovation and creative expression. Conversely, other legendary fragrances achieved acclaim with simpler compositions, proving that high-quality perfumery isn't dependent on formula length.

Conclusion

The belief that longer formulas inherently lead to more complex or superior fragrances is a myth. True olfactory excellence emerges from the thoughtful selection, quality, and balanced blending of ingredients—regardless of their number. Both minimalist and elaborate compositions can be engaging and memorable. Ultimately, it's the perfumer's skill and creativity that define a fragrance's complexity and appeal, not the length of its ingredient list.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Labdanum

What is Labdanum?

Labdanum is a rich, sticky resin obtained from the Cistus ladanifer shrub, commonly known as rockrose. Native to the Mediterranean region, labdanum has been a treasured ingredient since ancient times, revered for its deep, complex aroma that embodies warm, sweet, and resinous notes. Its scent profile is often described as ambery, leathery, and slightly smoky, making it an indispensable component in the world of perfumery, especially in crafting chypre and amber fragrances.

Origin 📍

Labdanum predominantly originates from the Mediterranean basin, with Spain, Morocco, Portugal, and Greece being the primary producers. The Cistus ladanifer shrub thrives in the hot, arid climates and rocky soils characteristic of these regions. Historically, the resin was collected by combing the sticky substance from the beards and fur of goats and sheep that grazed among the rockrose bushes. Today, more efficient methods involve directly harvesting the resin from the plants.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: Spain and Morocco lead in labdanum production, followed by Portugal and Greece.

• Historical Significance: Used since ancient Egyptian times for incense and embalming; mentioned in the Bible as an ingredient in sacred anointing oils.

• Scent Profile: Warm, sweet, resinous with ambery, leathery, and slightly animalic nuances.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

The Cistus ladanifer shrub is a hardy, evergreen plant that flourishes in poor, rocky soils and requires minimal water, making it well-suited to Mediterranean climates. It features sticky, aromatic leaves and white flowers with distinctive dark spots. While the plant often grows wild, some cultivation occurs to meet the demands of the fragrance industry.

• Growth: The shrub can reach up to 2.5 meters in height and is resistant to drought and pests.

• Harvesting Season: Resin collection typically takes place during the hot summer months when the plant exudes the most resin.

• Sustainability: Minimal agricultural intervention is needed, and the plant's resilience contributes to sustainable harvesting practices.

From Harvest to Absolute: The Extraction Process 🌿

Harvesting: During peak summer heat, labdanum resin is at its most abundant. Traditional harvesting involved using a "labdanum stick," a tool with leather thongs that combed the resin from the plants. Modern methods may include cutting the plant material for processing.

Extraction Methods:

1. Solvent Extraction:

   • Labdanum Resinoid: Plant material is treated with solvents like hexane to extract the aromatic compounds, resulting in a thick, sticky resinoid.

   • Labdanum Absolute: Further processing of the resinoid with ethanol removes impurities, yielding a highly concentrated absolute.

2. Steam Distillation:

   • Essential Oil: Steam distillation of the resin or plant material produces labdanum essential oil, capturing its volatile aromatic compounds.

Yield: The production of labdanum absolute is labor-intensive and requires a substantial amount of raw material—several tonnes of plant material may produce only a few kilograms of absolute—highlighting its value in perfumery.

Use 🛢️

Labdanum is a cornerstone in perfumery, cherished for its ability to add depth, warmth, and complexity to fragrances. It serves multiple roles:

• Base Note: Provides longevity and a rich foundation in scent compositions.

• Amber Accords: Essential in creating the "amber" note, often used as a plant-based alternative to ambergris.

• Blending Agent: Complements other resins, woods, and spices, enhancing overall fragrance complexity.

Beyond perfumery, labdanum is used in aromatherapy and traditional medicine for its potential anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Its evocative scent also makes it a popular choice for incense and ritualistic uses.

Most Notable Labdanum Fragrances 💫

• Mitsouko by Guerlain (1919)

• Shalimar by Guerlain (1925)

• Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens (2000)

• L'Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes (2005)

• Noir de Noir by Tom Ford (2007)