Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Many initiatives (e.g. fragrance.drama, Wisemoor and Perfumer Archive) provide GC-MS reports and fragrance formulas for accords and bases. These resources are used for various purposes, including learning, reference, and creating "dupes" (commercial replicas of popular fragrances). The Institute for Art and Olfaction offers extensive materials and a reference database to help enthusiasts and professionals understand aroma chemicals and raw materials. This makes it easier to interpret GC-MS reports and fragrance formulas 💡.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Alcohol from CO2, nostalgia scents, and fact-checking 🍾 

2. Story: Our Walk with Chester Gibs 🚶‍♀️ 

3. QUIZ: Annindriya Evergreen 🌿 

4. Fragrance Spotlight: All you need to know about Ylang-Ylang 🌼 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• Givaudan and LanzaTech are partnering to create sustainable fragrance ingredients from renewable carbon. Using LanzaTech's technology, they convert industrial emissions into ethanol, a type of alcohol, and then into fragrance components. This innovative process reduces reliance on fossil fuels and supports environmental sustainability, offering eco-friendly fragrance options for consumers.

• Xyrena has established itself as the Damien Hirst of the fragrance world with its avant-garde, nostalgia-infused scents. Known for creations like the American Psycho fragrance, Xyrena blends bold creativity with high-quality, vegan ingredients. The brand specializes in movie and nostalgia-based fragrances, offering immersive experiences that serve as "time machines" for analog escapes. Xyrena's unique approach is further highlighted by its call for independent perfumers to collaborate, aiming to introduce groundbreaking fragrances to the market.

• The Perfumery Code of Ethics has launched a fact-checking system to provide journalists, writers, and academics with reliable information about the fragrance industry. Volunteers, known as "pledgers," will respond to inquiries based on their knowledge or refer the queries to other experts. This initiative addresses the challenge of accessing accurate information in an industry often shrouded in secrecy. Journalists can send their questions to [email protected] for broader, less filtered insights, enhancing transparency and accuracy in perfume-related reporting.

A few weeks ago, I interviewed Chester Gibs, a perfumer and visual artist based in Amsterdam. Chester’s unique background and creative approach bring a fresh perspective to the world of fragrance.

How did you get into perfumery, Chester?

My journey into perfumery started in my late 30s. Growing up in a mixed Dutch-Indonesian household, I was always surrounded by a diverse array of scents—from the spices in our kitchen to the incense we used during family rituals. These early experiences left a lasting impression on me. However, it wasn't until after I graduated from art academy in 2001 that I began to seriously explore fragrances. Initially, I collected perfumes, but as my collection grew, I started to use them as a source of inspiration for my visual art. This led me to experiment with essential oils and eventually create my own fragrances.

Your background in visual arts is fascinating. How do you combine visual and olfactive arts in your work?

I think in colours. When I smell a new material, I often visualise it in terms of colours and shapes. For instance, a musky, animalic scent might evoke the color purple for me. This synesthetic approach helps me create fragrances that have a visual and emotional depth. When I create a fragrance, I draw a lot of inspiration from my memories and experiences, particularly those related to food and nature. For example, one of my perfumes is inspired by the smell of coriander seeds my aunt used in her cooking.

Can you tell us about your debut fragrance, "Walk with Me," for Annindriya?

"Walk with Me" is a fragrance that embodies duality and movement. I wanted it to be both comforting and uplifting. The scent starts fresh and spicy, with notes of lime leaf, bergamot, and cardamom, and transitions into a warm, creamy base with ylang-ylang, coconut, and vanilla. There's also a hint of leather to add an edge. The idea was to create a fragrance that you can wear both when you need a boost of energy and when you need comfort.

Creating "Walk with Me" was a deeply personal process. I drew inspiration from my childhood memories of tropical scents and the spices in our kitchen. I also wanted to challenge the conventional use of coconut in perfumery. Instead of a straightforward coconut scent, I combined it with unexpected elements like lime leaf and leather to create a complex, evolving fragrance. The name "Walk with Me" reflects the idea of movement and journey, inviting the wearer to experience the scent in different emotional states.

Walk with Me by Chester Gibs for Annindriya

"Walk with Me" is a fragrance that blends tropical freshness with comforting warmth. The scent starts with the bright notes of lime leaf and bergamot, spiced with cardamom. The heart features creamy ylang-ylang, connecting seamlessly with the rich coconut and vanilla base, enhanced by patchouli and a hint of leather.

Scent Type: Fresh, Gourmand, Spicy, Woody, Creamy
Notes: Lime leaf, Bergamot, Cardamom, Ylang-ylang (more about it in our “all you need to know section”), Coconut, Vanilla, Patchouli, Leather
Perfumer: Chester Gibs​ 🇳🇱 / 🇮🇩 

View here

What role does Annindriya play in your creative process?

Annindriya has been incredibly supportive in my journey as a perfumer. I’ve known the founder, Tanja, for several years, and she’s always been enthusiastic about my creations. When she invited me to create a fragrance for Annindriya, I was given a lot of creative freedom, which was both exciting and daunting. Annindriya’s philosophy of transparency and giving credit to perfumers aligns perfectly with my values. It’s empowering to see my name on the perfume bottle, though it also comes with the pressure of public scrutiny.

Working with Annindriya allowed me to stay true to my artistic vision. There was no strict brief, just the encouragement to create something that represented who I am. This freedom enabled me to incorporate personal elements into "Walk with Me," making it a fragrance that truly reflects my identity. The collaborative process was also enriching, as Tanja’s feedback helped refine the final composition without compromising my creative integrity.

Annindriya Collection

Vetiver Rain

"Vetiver Rain" captures the essence of freshness and earthiness, featuring vetiver as the star ingredient. The fragrance opens with bright citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit, supported by the woody undertones of cedarwood and moss.

Scent Type: Fresh, Woody, Earthy
Notes: Vetiver, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Cedarwood, Moss
Perfumer: Christophe Laudamiel​ 🇫🇷 

Seekwood

"Seekwood" is a bold and smoky fragrance, blending the rich, woody scent of oakwood with the spiciness of black pepper and saffron. The composition is deepened with cistus labdanum, amber, and musk for a warm and captivating finish.

Scent Type: Woody, Smoky, Spicy
Notes: Oakwood, Black pepper, Saffron, Cistus labdanum, Amber, Musk
Perfumer: Spyros Drosopoulos​ 🇳🇱 / 🇬🇷 

Orris Soyeux

"Orris Soyeux" is a delicate and elegant fragrance, highlighting the powdery and floral notes of orris root and violet. The composition is grounded with cedarwood and musk, rounded off with a touch of vanilla for a soft finish.

Scent Type: Floral, Powdery, Woody
Notes: Orris root, Violet, Cedarwood, Musk, Vanilla
Perfumer: Francesca Bianchi​ 🇮🇹 

Tipsy Tuberose

"Tipsy Tuberose" is a lush and intoxicating fragrance, combining the heady floral notes of tuberose and jasmine with the spicy kick of pink pepper. The base notes of vanilla, musk, and sandalwood add a gourmand and sensual touch.

Scent Type: Floral, Gourmand, Spicy
Notes: Tuberose, Pink pepper, Jasmine, Vanilla, Musk, Sandalwood
Perfumer: Meabh McCurtin​ 🇮🇪 

➡️ Discovery Set with all five fragrances ⬅️ 

What inspires you in your creative process?

My inspiration often comes from everyday experiences and memories. For "Walk with Me," I drew from the tropical scents of my childhood and the comforting spices of home-cooked meals. I also find inspiration in the visual arts. When I receive new perfume materials, I think of them in terms of colors and shapes, which helps me translate scents into cohesive compositions.

How do you see the relationship between visual art and olfactive art evolving?

There’s a growing recognition of the importance of scent in the art world. When I create installations or visual art pieces, I often incorporate scent to enhance the viewer's experience. For instance, during a recent exhibition, I created three different perfumes and asked visitors to choose one that would guide them through the artwork. This interactive approach helps people connect more deeply with the art and the scents around them.

What are your plans for the future?

I plan to release a few perfumes independently and continue creating scents for art exhibitions. I also want to explore innovative ways to present my fragrances, such as through immersive installations or unexpected locations. Ultimately, I aim to merge my visual art with my olfactive creations, offering unique and memorable experiences.

What advice do you have for our readers who are interested in exploring the world of fragrance?

Keep smelling and trust your instincts. Smell things in different contexts and at different times to see how they make you feel. Don’t be afraid to surprise yourself and break the conventional rules of perfumery.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Ylang-Ylang 🌼 

What is Ylang-Ylang?

Ylang-ylang, scientifically known as Cananga odorata, is an exotic tropical flower. Known for its long, slender yellow petals, ylang-ylang essential oil is celebrated in the perfume industry for its complex, multifaceted fragrance. It can produce floral, spicy, fruity, solar, creamy, and woody notes, depending on the distillation stage. This versatile flower is primarily grown in Madagascar and the Comoros, but also in Indonesia and Ghana.

Origin 📍

Ylang-ylang is native to Indonesia and Malaysia but found its way to the Comoros and Madagascar in the 19th century, where it now thrives. Today, Madagascar is the leading producer of ylang-ylang essential oil, with significant production also in the Comoros, particularly on the islands of Mohéli, Grande Comore, and Anjouan. Lesser quantities are produced in Mayotte, Ghana, and Indonesia.

Key Facts 📔

• Primary Producers: Madagascar (Ambanja, Nosy Be), Comoros (Mohéli, Grande Comore, Anjouan), with smaller contributions from Mayotte, Ghana, and Indonesia.

• Annual Production: Madagascar produces around 35-40 tonnes, while the Comoros produce about 25 tonnes annually.

• Cultivation Cycle: Ylang-ylang trees reach their first significant harvest at 2.5 years and can produce flowers for up to 30 years. Each tree yields 4 to 6 kg of flowers annually.

• Economic Value: The average price for ylang-ylang flowers ranges from $0.12 to $0.24 per kilogram, with the essential oil priced at approximately $150 per kilogram.

Cultivation 🧑‍🌾

Ylang-ylang trees prefer humid tropical climates and can grow up to 30 meters in the wild, though cultivated trees are usually kept between 2 to 3 meters for easier harvesting. The flowers bloom year-round but are most abundant during the rainy season. Harvesting starts early in the morning to ensure the flowers' quality and to protect the harvesters from the heat. The flowers must be processed within hours of picking to maintain their fragrance.

The cultivation process involves:

• Planting: Trees are planted in regions with alternating dry and rainy seasons, typically in volcanic soils.

• Harvesting: Flowers are picked early in the morning and immediately transported to distillation facilities to preserve their delicate scent.

Use 🛢️

Ylang-ylang essential oil's rich and varied scent profile makes it a favorite among perfumers. It is used in a variety of fragrances, from floral bouquets to more complex compositions. Notable for its soothing properties, ylang-ylang oil is also valued in aromatherapy and traditional medicine for its ability to relieve stress and anxiety, and to promote relaxation.

Sustainable practices are crucial for the production of ylang-ylang. Collaborations with local producers in Madagascar focus on eco-friendly farming techniques, ensuring high-quality and ethically sourced essential oil.