Hello, Fragrant Friend 👋,

Did you know? Amouage not only celebrates Oman’s fragrant heritage but also honors its culture through bottle design. Women’s fragrances are inspired by the Palace Ruwi Mosque, while men’s bottles mimic the shape of the Khanjar, Oman’s traditional dagger.

🗓️ Content of this Issue

1. Note Worthy: Da Vinci, Fragrance Startup, and White Smell 🖼️ 📈⚪️ 

2. Ask Me Anything: Disliked ingredients 🥸 

3. Scent MythBusters: Niche ingredients are better 💐 

4. QUIZ: Highest Perfume Consumption 📈 

5. Molecule Spotlight: All you need to know about Cashmeran 🧪 

Note Worthy 🔎🌸

• The Scents of Leonardo da Vinci at Chateau du Clos Lucé offers a unique olfactory experience, recreating the fragrances of the Renaissance master's world. Curated by Serge Lutens and L'Oréal Luxe, this exhibition blends art, history, and perfumery, giving visitors a multisensory glimpse into Leonardo's life. A must-see for those fascinated by the intersection of scent and culture. - found with James Elliott

• Villa Blu, the first startup accelerator dedicated to the natural fragrance and flavor industry, supported by the Robertet Group, is gearing up for its next batch. Applications are now open for Batch 4, which begins on November 12, 2024. Villa Blu offers startups an investment of up to 100.000€ in exchange for 1-7% equity. This is an exciting opportunity for emerging companies in the fragrance and wellness sectors to gain valuable mentorship and industry connections.

• A study led by Noam Sobel and his colleagues at the Weizmann Institute of Science explored the concept of "white smell," analogous to white noise in hearing. By blending a broad spectrum of odor molecules, they created a scent that is perceived as neutral and lacking any distinct characteristics. This "white smell" phenomenon demonstrates how the brain processes complex mixtures of smells, leading to a uniform perceptual experience. - found with Olivia Jezler 

ASK ME ANYTHING 🗣️ 👃 

Sy Truong: "As a perfumer, you don’t have the luxury of disliking any material. I’m not particularly fond of the Muguet group—like magnolan and hydroxycitronellal—but when I need to create transparent, airy, and aquatic floral notes, these materials are indispensable. It’s often the ingredients we’re less drawn to that can provide the most surprising results in a formula."

Claudia Camacho: "There are definitely raw materials I don’t naturally gravitate toward, but I always try to give them the benefit of the doubt. Often, when these materials are combined with others, they perform miracles. It’s a reminder never to underestimate the potential of any ingredient, no matter how unappealing it might seem at first."

Chester Gibs: "There are a few ingredients I personally dislike, but that’s more about how they’re often overused rather than the fault of the ingredient itself. When an ingredient dominates a perfume, it can overshadow everything else. However, in the right proportions, even those I’m not fond of can create something truly special. On the flip side, I adore tuberose absolute, but I’ve yet to find a way to use it in a formula that satisfies me."

Marie-Pierre: "The only materials I really struggle with are in the Geosmin / Terrasol family. Even in the smallest doses, they overpower a scent for me—I can detect them even below 0.001%. Perhaps I’m just more sensitive to them than most. But aside from those, I believe every material has its place in a formula, much like notes for a musician or colors for a painter. Each ingredient, no matter how challenging, can find its perfect role eventually."

Curious about the art of perfumery or have a burning question you've always wanted to ask a perfumer?

Share your questions with us, and we answer them in our next feature ⬇️ !

Scent MythBusters 🎭️ 

➡️ Short answer: Not always❓️ 

TL;DR

So, while niche fragrances can have better ingredients, it often depends on who’s behind the scent and what drives their creativity.

What Does "Better" Really Mean?

For many, "better" refers to the rarity and uniqueness of natural ingredients, which are often prized in niche fragrances. However, the term "niche" is not a protected title, and its interpretation varies widely. While we like to associate niche with "fragrance art, creativity, extravagance, and exclusivity," the reality is more complex.

The Quality Debate: Naturals vs. Synthetics

In fine fragrance, both natural and synthetic ingredients can be of high quality. The debate isn’t about which is better, but how they’re used. Naturals offer richness and complexity, while synthetics provide consistency and innovation. In niche perfumery, the focus should be on how these ingredients are blended to express the perfumer’s vision, rather than whether they are natural or synthetic. The true quality lies in the artistry, not the ingredient type.

The Role of Brand Approach

The distinction often lies in the brand's approach. Some brands, often labeled as niche but owned by large conglomerates (e.g., Atelier Cologne, Penhaligon's, Le Labo), prioritise shareholder value. In these cases, price per kg and marketing storylines may take precedence over the use of rare ingredients or true artistic expression. While these fragrances can still smell great, they may lack exactly that extra some expect from niche offerings.

True Niche: Independent Perfumers

On the other hand, many true niche brands—those led by independent perfumers—integrate artistic direction, brand identity, and ingredient selection into a cohesive whole. For these perfumers, the choice of ingredients is as crucial as the artistic vision itself. Their commitment to quality often results in the use of "better" ingredients, not necessarily because they are rarer or more expensive, but because they align with the brand's ethos and artistic direction.

Bruno Fazzolari, the owner of the fragrance brand 'Fzotic,' coined the term "Faux Niche" to describe brands that may market themselves as niche but are ultimately driven by corporate interests, where shareholder value is king. In contrast, true niche brands, often run by independent perfumers, focus on the artistry and integrity of their creations, using ingredients that are carefully selected to complement their vision.

The Paradox of Large Companies

It’s paradoxical that large companies could easily access premium raw materials at better prices but often don’t prioritise them. In contrast, independent perfumers, despite having fewer resources and distribution disadvantages, are more likely to use exceptional ingredients because they care deeply about every aspect of their creation.

QUIZ 🎲

All you need to know about Cashmeran®

What is Cashmeran?

Cashmeran® is a synthetic fragrance molecule that has become a cornerstone in modern perfumery. Chemically known as 1,1,2,3,3-Pentamethyl-4,5,6,7-tetrahydroindan-4-one, Cashmeran was first discovered and synthesised by International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) in the early 1970s. Renowned for its warm, woody, and musky scent profile, Cashmeran adds a warm, smooth touch to fragrances, often described as having the cosy feel of cashmere. It's this soft, comforting quality that makes it a favourite ingredient for creating rich, inviting scents.

History 📜

Cashmeran's journey began in the laboratories of IFF, where chemists were exploring new synthetic molecules to expand the olfactory palette available to perfumers. It was introduced to the market in the early 1970s and quickly gained popularity for its distinctive and multifaceted scent. The name "Cashmeran" comes from its soft and comforting scent, similar to the feel of cashmere fabric. This molecule has been important in the development of synthetic musks and woods in perfumery, providing a sustainable alternative to natural materials like ambergris.

Key Facts 📔

• Chemical Name: 1,1,2,3,3-Pentamethyl-4,5,6,7-tetrahydroindan-4-one

• First Major Use: 1970s by IFF

• Fragrance Profile: Woody, musky, with warm and spicy undertones

• Function in Perfumery: Used primarily as a base note, Cashmeran adds warmth, depth, and longevity to fragrances, enhancing the overall complexity of the composition.

• Production: Cashmeran is synthesised through a process involving the oxidation of pentamethyl tetrahydroindene, utilising a cobalt catalyst​.

The Chemistry Behind Cashmeran ⚗️

Cashmeran's complex structure allows it to impart a rich and multifaceted scent to perfumes. It is stable and versatile, with a melting point around 27°C, making it suitable for use in a variety of fragrance formulations. Despite its complexity, it blends effortlessly with other ingredients, enhancing the diffusion and longevity of the fragrance. Its ability to convey both warmth and a sense of depth makes it particularly valuable in creating sophisticated and long-lasting scents​.

Usage in Perfumery 🧴

Cashmeran is widely used across the fragrance industry, from high-end luxury perfumes to everyday scents. Its versatility makes it a favourite among perfumers who use it to:

• Enhance Woody and Musky Compositions: Cashmeran adds a velvety, cozy texture to perfumes, making it an ideal component in woody and musky fragrances.

• Support Base Notes: Its lasting, warm character helps to build a strong foundation for a fragrance, ensuring the scent remains prominent throughout its wear.

• Create Novel Effects: Whether used in small amounts to amplify other notes or in larger doses to take centre stage, Cashmeran offers perfumers the flexibility to craft unique and memorable compositions.

Notable Fragrances Featuring Cashmeran 🌸

Since its introduction, Cashmeran has been a key ingredient in many well-known fragrances, some of the most notable being:

• Dans Tes Bras by Frédéric Malle

• Wonderwood by Comme de Garçon

• For Her Pure Musc by Narciso Rodriguez

Production and Sustainability 🌍

While Cashmeran is a synthetic molecule, its production is aligned with modern sustainability practices. IFF has implemented processes that minimise environmental impact, ensuring that the manufacturing of Cashmeran is both efficient and eco-friendly. The molecule’s synthetic nature also means it can be produced consistently, offering a reliable and sustainable alternative to natural materials​.